wobbly wheels

Colin Morgan · Post by **Colin Morgan** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:33 pm

Can any one give me a solution to get rid of wheel wobble/excessive play
on a tiger mid. How do i get rid of it.
I understand there are some modified spacers that can be fitted to sort
this problem, ware can i get them or information about them.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
One more thing are there any tank clubs/meetings in or around croydon
surrey area (under say 50-60 miles or so from croydon)

Many thanks Colin

Stewart Ashton · Post by **Stewart Ashton** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:51 pm

Hi Colin and welcome to the forums

I have no big cats just agricultural type vehicles so have a look
at Simons thread here;

http://www.armortek.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=819

I have no doubt as the members come online you will receive lots
of pointers and useful help.

Regards Stewart

simon_manning · Post by **simon_manning** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:29 pm

Hi collin, i am currently dealing with this problem, it is a common fault with this model, Adding extra bearings and some spacers made. If you own a lathe or know somebody that dose it would make the job a whole lot easier. Trial and error seems to be the cure. check out my early tiger bulid. Some builders have gone to the exstent of re-desiging their axels and wheels.
Ill keep u up dated on how i get on !
Simon Manning

Brian Leach · Post by **Brian Leach** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 12:30 am

Hey,

Try this web site:

www.stinch.com

He did a Tiger build with extensive documentation.

This should help.

-Brian

Matthijs Dijkstra · Post by **Matthijs Dijkstra** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 10:26 pm

Hi Colin,

Please send me an E-mail.

pantzer6@yahoo.com

Matthijs

Rich Stinchcomb · Post by **Rich Stinchcomb** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:01 am

Brian Leach wrote:Hey,

Try this web site:

www.stinch.com

He did a Tiger build with extensive documentation.

This should help.

-Brian

Mine is a early Armortek production of a mid-production Tiger (December 1943). Here's a direct link http://one6armor.stinch.com

Colin Morgan · Post by **Colin Morgan** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:33 pm

Thanks guys for your input and the links. Now i no what the spacers look like from the stinch site, I still don't know were i can
purchase them. Also why are the standard spacers/bobbing's so fat, as they touch the wheels in front or behind over bumps.

Colin

simon_manning · Post by **simon_manning** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:38 pm

hi colin

the answer to spacer/bobbin question; simply, bad design!most of these teething troubles have been cured on later kits.

simon manning

Rich Stinchcomb · Post by **Rich Stinchcomb** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:58 am

Colin

Vince Abbott once sold a wheel spacer set that used an extra wheel bearing to reduce wheel play. It required machining each original steel spacer. I bought and installed the set on my Tiger and it reduced the wheel wobble quite a bit. The spacer set has since been removed and I had my wheels modified by Pete Fertl in the US so that each set is bolted together.

I still have Vince's wheel spacer set and the original modified steel spacers if you are interested.

Alan Hamby · Post by **Alan Hamby** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:38 pm

I had my wheels done by Pete Fertl too. He does beautiful work on them.

- Alan

Colin Morgan · Post by **Colin Morgan** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:55 am

Thanks Rich yes yes yes. sent pm

Colin

Allan Richards · Post by **Allan Richards** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 1:30 pm

I've done a mod very similar to Rich and bolted the wheels together. I don't know with Rich's design but with mine you cannot remove the outermost wheels in situ so if you want to remove any wheels you have to remove (anbd replace) the whole set in one go which is a little fiddly. I think with Vince's design the outermost wheels are removable but I think they do wobble a little by the way he has done them. Personally I would consider fitting PTFE bearings because my ballraces have all seized up now and the wheels run on the shafts. There is no wear on the shafts and I don't intend to d anything with them as the tank runs like a Swiss watch at the moment.

Rich Stinchcomb · Post by **Rich Stinchcomb** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 2:33 pm

Like Allan said, when the wheels are bolted together as a set (as with Pete's modifications), then all the wheels go on together per side. It isn't difficult and just makes assembly a bit of a balancing act.

The real Tiger used the same design. For maintenance, the wheels were unbolted to permit access to the wheels that were behind. I could do the same but my hands are not 1/6th scale and that makes removing them individually almost impossible.

Colin: Vince's design simply added a bearing to the road wheel with the deeper hole. The original steel spacer was turned down, removing the material that would normally go inside the road wheel. The removed space was replaced with a bearing and a small spacer. It is an inexpensive upgrade with a big improvement. Going to the next level and bolting the wheels together requires lots of machining from someone who knows what they are doing (like Pete). It wasn't cheap either. It all depends on your budget as to which way to go.

Rich

Colin Morgan · Post by **Colin Morgan** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 2:47 pm

Thanks rich i will pm pete to get angle on things

Colin Morgan · Post by **Colin Morgan** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 4:12 pm

Got the name wrong in above post sorry pete.
I'm not going to let this wheel problem spoil my enjoyment.
my work mates think the tank is wicked the way it goes over anything and
ripped up the grass outside the office window (it wasn't me boss it must have been the dustmen) brill. cant wait to get out in the woods and hopefully join up with others.
Many thanks to everyone who posted help on this subject. If you have anymore ideas in the meantime keep them coming please.

Colin Morgan