00 FD 96 John's Main Contender

[Stephen White]

John

https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/alphabets.php

Widely available online.

[John chamney]

John

Ta very much

[John Clarke]

Hi John

Stephen's quite right, You may find as I did, you under estimate how many pack's (depending on how far you wish to go with them) you'll need.
There's lots of FV letters you can set on the Chieftain model.

The great thing is that they make fantastic easy (annoying to fit sometimes) detail.

Other than the really big letters, I have brought twice as many packs as I originally thought I'd need so far, (3mm and 2mm).

I may need to do 1mm letters in the future. I'm going to have to start eating more carrots.

By ordering more at the time, may save you on post and waiting times too.

How ever you pick and place the letters, I found super gluing to bare metal is best.

[John chamney]

Hi john thanks for the advise how many packs of each size would you suggest ? Can see this is going to keep me quiet for a while

John

[John Clarke]

Hi John
Originally I brought a couple of packs of each size, 2 and 3 mm I've doubled that now.
The larger sizes one of each 5 mm and 8 mm, I still don't know what I need yet until I start on those parts that need them.

Had another Track day today. Starting to put them together in sections of 15, so they can be stored handled easily until needed. I'm doing 15 at a time so I don't get too bored, at the same time watch the goggle box.
There's some needle filing to do on a few of the outer edges so the pins fit snugly, with the stainless steel washers, I've used 6mm x 1mm Stainless split pins which won't rot away over time.
I might be poo poo'd, but I'm still putting a small amount of grease on each pin so that it slides in sweetly and reduces the possibility of scratching the fresh dry lub while pushing the pins into the track.

This lot should keep me going until Xmas.

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[John Clarke]

A few month ago I brought very fine Centurion by David Wilkins, It is this model quality that I hope to achieve with the Chieftain.
I was struck during pick up by the difficulty and accuracy the driving needed to be when using the lift table. The tracks over hung David's lift table by a few millimeters.
Twitching at the thought of a nasty slip and disaster and the new Chieftain model arriving soon.
I thought I must do something to avert any dreadful occurrences.
So I added wooden battens to the sides of the lift table to gain extra width, extending the same battens so that long ramps can be attached for an easy drive on or off and short ramps onto the work bench. Looks so much safer.

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[John chamney]

Hi john

Thanks for the info ref the letters , noticed your going to use stainless split pins and came across black stainless on a site so will give them a go . Quick question do you apply thread lock to things that aren’t going to require adjustment at a latter date ? Or do you not just in case ? Thanks

John

[John Clarke]

Hi John
I'll add thread locker (loctite) to parts that Armortek may suggest, parts I plan use loctite are the rubber track blocks and to parts that may be under stress. The Tensioner mounting bracket, motor gear box mount, you won't want them to come loose and of course sprocket ring nuts.
You 'll have to be carful tightening the small retainers, some people would be supprised at how low the design torque on a 3mm set screw actually is, 1- 2 Nm, 4mm set screw 2- 5 Nm, it is dependant on relative strength marking of the retainer.
It's sometimes a difficult call, knowing what parts will need to be dismantled. A good reason to wait until you have all the bits if your ordering option packs so you don't have to strip down to reach parts previously assembled.
If you use loctite, I believe the higher the number usually means higher strength. I'll usually use 222 or 243, low-medium strength.
Small threads in alluminum "Pull" (tear out) easily, so I go easy on the amount of loctite used. only tiny amounts needed (not dripping). If you decide to use it around bearings due to a sloppy fit, go easy, you don't want get thread locker in the wrong places.
Finally, if you need to dismantle anything with thread locker on, and you suspect it could damage the fitted thread if you pull on it too hard. Gently warm up the area round the bolt etc, to be removed with a small hobby blow torch or heat gun, it should ease the removal.
You may have to repaint, but it's better that than a damaged thread.
Bearings can be removed this way too, but you will probably need to replace the bearing after heating it up as it may boil the grease out of it.

[davidwilkins]

Hi John,

I have to say I have missed my Centurion but seeing some photos of her again and knowing that she has gone to a good home does relive the pain a bit of not seeing her in my workshop.

She's a big beast with the fuel tank on the rear end, I believe she's about the same size as a chieftain with the 120mm gun. I have been really enjoying the chieftain build threads, there is a lot of experience and knowledge out there on this subject and I have to admit that that I am a little bit gutted that I did not purchase a chieftain but the minister of finance reminded that money was a bit tight.

Good luck with your chieftain build I will be following with interest.

David

[John Clarke]

Hi David

Celerity (Swiftness of movement) is a beast, I would call her the Green Goddess but that phrase is is taken by an ugly fire engine. Green Beaut, but alas no.

So it it will have to be Green Celerity, though it does sound like celery, I should have asked why? there's usually other reasons to the obvious.

She has been hiding under the bench since she arrived, but now with the lift table mod, I can get her out easily and enjoy the detail and time you put into her.
A reference for Chieftain if I start to slack. I do want to make a couple of items for her. Otherwise she'll stay as she is.

I'm pretty sure some are going to be amazed at the size and weight of Chieftain once it emerges from the five basic boxes and a box of tronics.

I'm going to have to strengthen the bench!

I think JT will be bigger.......................I always say. Be careful what you wish for

I'm an avid fan of your Tiger build, which is truly excellent. The Tiger bar is very high but you have easily mastered it.

[John Clarke]

So I've completed 75 track links, it's been very therapeutic, treating each link like a jigsaw piece. Some links fit together very nicely, some a little tight. So it's a question of getting the right fit. Mix and Match, There's no rush.
In the mean time I've been wondering about how I'm going to get the Hull front plate angle correct. I think it could look better.
The original model front plate is about 4 degree's inclusive, by my reckoning it should be double that at about 8 degree's or more inclusive. It would be too difficult to bend the model front plate (12mm+) and what you may add in the middle you will surely take away from the sides.
So while thinking about it in the bath, I had a eureka moment, add more armor, (shaped applique armor!). Chieftain has the thickest armor anyway, a little more won't hurt.
I've bent a 5mm plate to fit the original front plate, attached it though the towing lug plate holes, and shaped it for several hours. 8 degree's now, looks pretty good,
I'll glue the two pieces together then I can use the original towing lug plate holes for their original purpose. It even matches the side plates better as there's not so much over hang to trim off now.

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[Richard Goodwin]

A good solution John for those that don't have access to a mill albeit one with a lot of filing so not surprised it took a few hours but it does look good!

[John Clarke]

Cheers Richard, to go with the lower hull plate, the upper hull front casting will be interesting nose job mod. it will need to be a bit more pointy

I'll have to take another bath.

Back to the riveting track link build, I think I'll only get enough time to build the one set before Xmas.

[John Clarke]

Xmas is over for another year, having a few surprises along the way, wheel think about them later

I've had a look at the Chieftain builds with motors fitted and feel a bit more comfortable and positive about the next step.

Weathers warmer and the B&D workmate's up and out the shed. And together with my glamorous assistants, I thought I'd follow Stephen Whites lead and sort out the "Famous rear end".

First flattened out the rear of the belly plate with a mallet and a block of wood. Squared off the "fish taiL" edge.

Then put the not so sharp vee bend back in the belly plate, mallet and wood again.

Now on to checking on Stephen's belly plate and rear plate mod from forum, Using my Mr Magoo eye for detail, made the appropriate cuts with a jig saw.

After cleaning up some of the dings in the side plates, screwed hull together, measured up for the missing rear plate.

Cut a new piece of 3mm aluminum plate. waiting till the new year for welding up.
Should be ok and the build can commence.

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[Richard Goodwin]

Nice one John! Glad to see that welding is taking off a little

Can't quite see from the pictures but remember this:

Where the new part added sits on top of the floor such that you can see the floor edge and the back plate sits on top of the new part such that you can see the new part edge if you get my drift? Knowing your attention to detail, I'm sure you have done it this way