Phils Famo build

[Derek Attree]

Hi Phil
I made a 12 mm thick plywood extended cover for my lift table clamped
at the back by the handel to stop it tipping makes life a lot safer.

I am building a Polly 5" inch coal fired saddle tank loco at the moment
I hope to finish around christmas so I can start the Famo.

I am planing to have my Famo in German grey.

As I alway wanted to build somthing in that colour.

Regards

Derek

[Phil Woollard]

Simon I think the degree setting tool was bought from ebay.
Derek I love Live steam loco's you can always post a a couple of photos for us in the "off topic" section. Your Famo will look great in German grey.
I'm hoping as the Famo gets bigger it will balance on the tracks and be a bit more stable on my lift but a a plywood extension would be a good idea!
Regards Phil.

[David McConnell]

Hi Phil,
I too am watching with interest as my Famo is on a round world trip on its way to Australia ..... half of it has got to go to Germany and now it’s in Kentucky!

I am very interested in the smaller M3 screws you have used and if you could send a link. I’m pretty sure I have some floating around with all my other partly started, nearly finished Armortek models but probably not enough for the Famo.

They do look more to scale than the standard M3 head. Have you swapped any others out as well?

On a side note, I’m glad you asked about filing a flat re the Famo, because my poor Tiger tank basically collapsed under its own weight due to not have flats on the torsion bars and has been waiting for me to pull it apart for too many years to confess to fix. My Tiger is actually the last one sold prior to Gill and Mark taking over Armortek so she’s a true first batch! Although I have upgraded it so much it may as well be current.

Would love to know if you have advice on getting loctite undone as that’s pretty much what’s holding up my Tiger fix. Sorry for digressing but don’t get to talk about my hobby much as my wife turns up her nose and disappears when I do ...

Lucky she doesn’t know about the King Tiger I still have in boxes in the roof .....

Dave

[Phil Woollard]

Hi David, those m3 with the small heads that I posted a photo of are nickel plated and have different height heads but I can't for the life of me remember where they came from, check out this famo thread as there are a couple of links to companies that supply them, I use the ones I have for the Tiger and Panther deck fixings. I may use them else where on the famo but not decided just yet but I will post if i do.

Reference the flats on the torsion bar fixed ends, Armortek say you don't need to and I respect that statement but in practice i have seen many suspension system that have gone south, so it's belt and braces for me and easy to apply when building from new, so I will leave it with you.

Reference getting loctite undone, simply apply some heat to the bolt or screw and turn away! The small "chefs" blow torch for the smaller delicate fixings and a plumbers torch for bigger stuff. ( keep away from the white metal though!)

Kind regards Phil

[Phil Woollard]

A little help from you guy's that have the full motion pack please, As i generally put together my own motion and sound and smoke systems (using mainly Armortek parts) I have no idea of the recommended placing of the components like the steering arrangement offered in the motion pack for the Famo,

1, how is the steering servo mounted, and how is it controlled in conjunction with the track steering?(Y leads?)
2, what size and type of servo is used (big I would think)?
3, what size of winch motor and gearbox are they using?
4, what size batteries and where are they recommended to be placed?

A couple of photos of the relevant pages would be great. Email me if you prefer.

I have a few ideas of maybe storing the batteries in large packing crates in the load area along with all the control modules, I want to keep the area under and between the load deck and chassis clear for detailing the gear box, air tanks and exhausts etc. I am also very keen to preserve the classic Famo silhouette for VT and photographic work, see photo below.

Now I could ask Armortek for details but they are extremely busy right now.



Regards Phil.

[Phil Woollard]

As it's the day of our Lord i have only tinkered today. Whilst tinkering with the track i have encountered a slight problem, nothing to serious but a pain all the same. It's an easy fix but it may or may not scupper Florians plans for more scale like fixings. I'll elaborate tomorrow

[Phil Woollard]

The track fix, the problem is on the one face only, the other side has been recessed as part of the casting and is not a problem. I think on refection that you could now use m3 scale hex heads but im going to stick with stock, if you do use hex heads you would have to use a long series socket due to the awkward angle, a spanner would take for ever.
The bonding can be done by lifting the edges of the rubber blocks and applying that way, just dont apply to much or you will contaminate the threads!

[Dennis Jones]

Regarding the steering servo Phil, the last I heard was that they were going to use a linear actuator with self centering, but that may have changed.

Dennis.

[Phil Woollard]

Thanks Dennis, its all new to me but sounds like thats the way to go Regards Phil.

[florian rudolf]

Hi Phil,

great work and so fast... I'm looking at scale screws for the track link. Also take other screws for the wheels like you do.

[Phil Woollard]

Hi Forian, I'm building the tracks, about two days work i would think ,regards Phil

[Phil Woollard]

A very fiddly and repetitive job but what a fantastic end result, just got to do the other side now! Not much done today as Im getting the Quad ready for her trip to Exeter tomorrow.

[Brian Ostlind]

That looks cool. Nice photos. What do you use to bond the tires?

[Phil Woollard]

"Araldite" mainly, there are lots of different brand names I think you guys may know the "gorilla" brand epoxy. My experience with the sticky stuff has taught me to check the use by date, and if it's out of date it can, go off to fast or never seem to go off at all. 5 minuet epoxy is to quick for wheels so I generally use a 10 min, which takes about 15 minuets depending on age and temperature

There's a bigger gap between the tyre and the wheel with this famo kit, this may make the job easier as some kits in the past have had very tight fitting tyres....we will see quite soon.

[Armortek]

That looks cool. Nice photos. What do you use to bond the tires?

We use loctite 480 at the factory. Clean surfaces first and you will have a very strong bond - will rip the rubber before the adhesive gives way.
Also recommended for ensuring the track rubber stays bonded to the inserts.

Kian