track fitting

[Martin Taylor]

Could those who have fitted their tracks advise as to the best position (ie. inverted, on side or normal running position) for this stage of the build? I see from the Forum entries that different approaches seem to have been used. I have to bring in help to turn the tank so forward planning is essential!
Thanks
Martin

[Daniel Scholefield]

I fitted mine with the tank on its side as it enabled me to do both sides with only one movement of the hull. When they come off again next week to fix a binding issue before it's trip to Bovington that is what I will do once more. I found that working from the side made getting the link piece in fairly simple.
The most important thing to getting the tracks fitted was getting enough slack for the tensioner to work effectively - the solution to this was getting a semi-circular rebate cut into the four tensioner trays at the front of each side to allow the front axles to go all the way back, that made all the difference.

[Chris Hall]

Martin -

I didn't flip mine completely on its side - I just propped it up underneath so that the side I was working on was raised off the table - the tank would have been at a 30-40 degree angle. You should be able to do that by yourself, with care. That would stop the tracks falling / sliding off and damaging something like the cab sides, or any paintwork you've already done. Be careful, though, because the floor plate isn't that strong, so you won't want to bend or dent it ! All the strength of these Mk. IV's is in the sides, which is as it should be - if you look at original pictures of blown-up tanks, the sides are largely intact while the floor and roof sections are completely destroyed.

And Daniel is absolutely correct about cutting / filing out the tensioner trays (they are aluminium, so it's not hard, even for a novice like me). With that done, the front sprockets drop right down into the front horns, and the tracks connect like a dream (well, a slightly awkward and oily dream ). I don't really see how it can be done without the cutting out - I bent my tensioning tool trying ! And don't forget Mark's tip about using a couple of screwdrivers to hold the track links outside the frame, or you won't be able to get the connecting clips on.

Sounds like you're almost there ! Are you planning on being at TankMod / Armortek Day ? By my count, that'll make at least four Mk. IV's, which will be an awesome sight.

Hope this helps,

Chris

[Martin Taylor]

Daniel/Chris,
Many thanks, it looks as if turning the tank over is not necessary...thank goodness I am some way off completion so sadly will not be at Bovington.
Having previously built a King Tiger and Centurion I am finding the Mk1V a very different but no less enjoyable sort of challenge with more forward planning and lateral thinking required which all adds to the fun!
Martin

[Martin Taylor]

Hi Daniel and Chris,
Given your successful track fitting could you confirm that the spring clips face each other ie. the link on the inner chain faces outwards and that on the outer chain faces inwards?? If so which link did you fix first? I know this is pretty basic stuff but given the evident challenge of fitting the tracks i want to try to answer all the key questions and take advantage of your experience before I get started!!

Thanks
Martin

[Chris Hall]

Martin -

It was a few months ago now, and they say the human mind has no memory of pain .... ask any mother

There's only really one way it can be done, which is with the clips on the inside of both chains. Remember that the flanges need to be on the outside, as that's where you bolt the track plates ! So, if I understand you correctly I agree with your thoughts. I don't think it makes any difference which one you do first. Don't panic, though - as long as the front drive cogs have dropped down inside the horns it should be a breeze - honest !

But don't forget Steve's tip of putting a splodge of paint (white or yellow) on the link with the clip so that you can find it again if/when you want to take the tracks off in the future.

Sound like you're getting close ! Soon be time for some pictures, and even a YouTube clip ..... and then you'll need a run-out with the rest of us !

All the best,

Chris

[Martin Taylor]

Many thanks Chris both for the confirmation that I am on the right track (??) and for your friendly encouragement. Once again the Forum comes up trumps!
Martin

ps. it is many months since I last attempted to send pics to the Forum but will try again when the tracks are on!

[Daniel Scholefield]

To echo what Chris said, the spring clips will always be on the inside of the chains as the flange for attaching the track plate will be on the outside. Which order you do them in is entirely up to you, small bent nose pliars made it a lot easier to fit the clip in the two occasions I have had to re-attach my tracks.
Marking the inside of the track plates where the join is is also a good idea as it makes finding the join a breeze if/when you have to remove the track once more.
All in all just take it steady and don't get too frustrated with it, it's a messy business getting them on but the sense of accomplishment when you do will make up for any grief.

[Martin Taylor]

Much appreciated advice and encouragement Daniel. I am sure as you say that the ultimate satisfaction will far outweigh any frustrated moments.
Martin