This is (was) also my very first Armortek kit. I have been lusting after one for decades it seems. When the Mark IV was announced, I decided it was finally time to pull the trigger. I have also always heard about the quality,but was completely blown away when I got my kit. I then celebrated by ordering the Tiger I mid.
I'll be riveting mine by peening over the rivets,but with a spin. I plan on using a pneumatic palm nailer, fitted with another snap that Gill was kind enough to supply. This should make short work of all those rivets. (alllll those rivets.....They give me nightmares!)
I have not started construction yet as I am waiting for the motion, smoke, and sound options. I'd like to have it all in hand before I start messing things up. I am completely unsure what vehicle I want to represent.
Kit number 25
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Re: Kit number 25
I've decided I'm going to hold off on any really substantive construction until I have all the option packs. I'm paranoid I'll screw something up, despite Gill's assurances I'd be OK forging ahead.
I have a 25 pounder to tide me over, and the Tiger I mid waiting as well, so I'm not lost for things to do!
I have a 25 pounder to tide me over, and the Tiger I mid waiting as well, so I'm not lost for things to do!
- Chris Hall
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Re: Kit number 25
Mark -
That seems a shame, as we need all the MK. IV's on display that we can get, and you've invested a lot of money in it ...
I, like you, am completely new to Armortek - previously, I'd never assembled anything more complex than an Airfix kit. So I was intimidated too when those big, heavy boxes showed up ! But I bit my lip, got stuck in, and it really isn't a big deal, as long as you've got a few basic tools and sufficient space to work in.
I don't know how far you've got (if at all), but I would suggest that you try the first few sections, which are all riveting. Then they can be loose-bolted to the inner frames - to me, that was the point when my build started to come alive. I've hit a few wonky rivets, but nothing that paint and filler won't cure (I'm not experienced enough to drill them out and start again). And the first section is the floor plate, so any errors will never be seen
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Finally, if I've learnt one thing since I've been part of the Armortek group, it's that Gill is ALWAYS right !
Good luck, and go for it. There's plenty of people better than me here to help you if you get stuck or confused.
All the best,
Chris
That seems a shame, as we need all the MK. IV's on display that we can get, and you've invested a lot of money in it ...
I, like you, am completely new to Armortek - previously, I'd never assembled anything more complex than an Airfix kit. So I was intimidated too when those big, heavy boxes showed up ! But I bit my lip, got stuck in, and it really isn't a big deal, as long as you've got a few basic tools and sufficient space to work in.
I don't know how far you've got (if at all), but I would suggest that you try the first few sections, which are all riveting. Then they can be loose-bolted to the inner frames - to me, that was the point when my build started to come alive. I've hit a few wonky rivets, but nothing that paint and filler won't cure (I'm not experienced enough to drill them out and start again). And the first section is the floor plate, so any errors will never be seen

Finally, if I've learnt one thing since I've been part of the Armortek group, it's that Gill is ALWAYS right !

Good luck, and go for it. There's plenty of people better than me here to help you if you get stuck or confused.
All the best,
Chris
Mark IV (Liesel, Abteilung 14, France 1918)
M3 Lee (25 Dragoons, Burma 1944)
Universal Carrier (2/Wiltshires, Italy 1944)
Panther (Deserter, 145 RAC, Italy 1944)
Centurion Mk 3 (8KRIH, Korea 1950/51)
Morris Quad, 25-pdr & limber (45RA, Korea 1951)
M3 Lee (25 Dragoons, Burma 1944)
Universal Carrier (2/Wiltshires, Italy 1944)
Panther (Deserter, 145 RAC, Italy 1944)
Centurion Mk 3 (8KRIH, Korea 1950/51)
Morris Quad, 25-pdr & limber (45RA, Korea 1951)
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Re: Kit number 25
De-riveting is quite straight forward. Always take the head off, the hammered tail becomes wedge shaped and cannot be easily driven back through the plate/s. My technique is to put a flat on the top of the rivet, with a file or Dremel with a burr, then centre punch and drill with a 2.5mm bit a pilot hole, then use a 5.5mm bit to take the head off. The burr will help tidy up, then tap the remains through with a thin punch. It should just pop out. The 5.5mm bit is smaller than the head of the rivet so all traces will be hidden under the new rivet or bolt head.
I have now taken quite a few rivets out as time has gone on.
Regards Steve
I have now taken quite a few rivets out as time has gone on.

Regards Steve