Advice please , also

[Richard Trilling]

I'd like to introduce myself, I live across the channel near Paris. This is the first time I've attempted to build an all metal kit. I was going to start off with the Kompact 25 pdr kit, but due its lack of availability, I decided to build the Limber first.

I would like to leave the Limber, once built, in its bare metal state without painting it. Right or wrong I think it will look better that way. I could always paint it later.

Since it's my first metal build, I have some newbie questions below.

I've read the answers to Ian Cameron's questions.

That means I believe that I would have to clean and degrease it:
I'll look for a French replacement for Upol System 20 greaser. That should be too much of a problem. There's a small auto repair shop across the street from me.

What do I use for polishing the piece to get rid of what appears to be some of the marks on the metal surfaces and near/next to the drill holes (oxidation perhaps) and what sort of tool do I need in order to do it?

Perhaps I should also coat the surfaces, as I build it with some product to prevent oxidation.

Any suggestions on how to proceed would be very appreciated, including some product names and/or sources. I live in France so generic names would be appreciated. I'm not sure what is available on this side of the channel, model engineering is more of a UK specialty then French. Most people that I've known have ordered things from the UK, I've had to do that with the rivet snaps.

Merci in advance for any suggestions and help.

[Dave Boller]

Hi. I'm not familiar with this particular kit, but I don't think there are too many steel parts (which must be painted, or they'll rust), as there are with a tank kit. I'm guessing the shield (Compact Kit), hitch, levers and some axle/wheel compoenants are. The "white metal" parts will not rust, and just need cleaning up. No painting necessary there. So, I would just clean-up the steel parts. paint them with the metal etch-primer (for protection and adhesion), and then paint them a metallic silver color to look as though they were bare metal. Try to get a silver color to closely match the color of the white-metal. You'll be amazed at how many choices there are. Not sure what the "marks" are you're talking about. If it's only superficial, you might try sanding it with a fine emory cloth. If you plan on doing a lot more kits in the future, get a "Moto-Dremel" tool; it'll be well worth it. Hope this helps.

[Adrian Harris]

> metal surfaces and near/next to the drill holes (oxidation perhaps)

If the parts have been water-jet cut, then there may be a white deposit around each cut, from the particulate used in the water stream. This should wash off with a kitchen scouring pad, or some fine wire wool if stubborn.

If you want a bare-metal look, of which I'm also a fan, then how about the clear coat paint that the custom bike\rod builders use to protect bare metal finishes ?

Adrian.

[Dave Boller]

Hi Adrian. Curious about your bare-metal, clear coat. Do you know what it's called? Is it self-etching, or do you need to treat the metal in anyway before applying? The bike parts are not stainless steel are they? Thanks.

[Adrian Harris]

Dave,

I have no idea what the product is, but I've seen it used by Gas Monkey Garage on a program on Discovery Channel called "Fast & Loud".

They've had a few old trucks where the paint/panels have weathered to a paint+rust finish which they wanted to keep, so they just covered it with some kind of clear finish, to prevent any further deterioration.

Adrian.

[Peter Silcock]

I think you will find that the finish Adrian is referring to is simply a clear automotive lacquer used by rat rodders over bare metal or custom paint jobs and available in a matt semi gloss and gloss finishes. They also use various types of specialist waxes instead of spraying lacquer. Games Workshop do a matt spray clear finish which is very easy to use.