CENTURION KIT AND MOTION PACK FOR SALE

[neil pudney]

I HAVE A CENTURION KIT AND HIGH EFFICENCY MOTION PACK FOR SALE. THE KIT HAS ONLY BEEN PART STARTED AND COMES WITH EVERYTHING NEEDED TO COMPLETE THE BUILD AND RUN.
ALL THATS BEEN DONE SO FAR ARE THE MAIN HULL FRAME PUT TOGETHER, THE TRACKS HAVE BEEN PUT TOGETHER AND PAINTED/WEATHERED TO A HIGH STANDARD AND MINOR WORK TO ONE BOGIE AND SPRINGS PAINTED. MOST IS STILL AS IT ARRIVED IN THE BOXES FROM ARMORTEK.
I ALSO HAVE 1/6 FIGURE, PAINT,ETCH PRIMER, AND 2 12 VOLT BATTERIES/ CHARGER, AND ADJUSTABLE WORKBENCH. THIS WILL BE COLLECT ONLY FROM COLCHESTER, ESSEX.
ASKING PRICE IS £4750.00 SO SAVING THE BUYER AT LEAST £1500 PLUS ON WHAT I HAVE SPENT ON IT ALL.
IT WILL BE CASH ON COLLECTION PLEASE.
ANY ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT ME BY PERSONAL MESSAGE.
A VERY RELUCTANT SALE !
REGARDS TO YOU ALL,NEIL

[neil pudney]

AFTER MUCH THOUGHT I HAVE DECIDED TO KEEP GOING WITH THE CENTURION SO NO LONGER FOR SALE, I MUST STOP WORRYING ABOUT HOW LONG IT WILL TAKE ME TO FINISH !!

[Kevin Hunter]

Well done Neil
Must say I was surprised to see your initial post ( and a little tempted!).
These models can take time. I have to juggle work, home and garden, very demanding dog and even more demanding "she who must be obeyed". Ok, she's really not that bad.....
In between though, I am really enjoying my slow progress and it was really exciting when I first drove the unfinished beast this week. It's satisfying even though I'm nothing like in the league of Stephen White and others. These models see to impress anyone who sees them regardless of the builders skill level.
I'm glad you have withdrawn the model from sale. Stick with it and I'm sure you will gradually make progress and enjoy doing so.
Regards
Kevin

[neil pudney]

Thanks Kevin, i know you are right. Its just been so frustrating the past few months ive hardly managed to do anything. Mind you its given me the chance to see other builds progressing and any problems they may have encountered along the way and any tips etc from others on the forum.
The trickiest part for me so far was when i started to paint, i etch primed the parts but the etch prime itself still seems to lift with the slightest knock which i didnt think it would do. Im carefully hand painting all the smaller parts with military spec deep bronze green over the etch primer planning to spray a final coat all over then weather and seal.
Im an experienced plastic kit builder and painter but metal is so different !

best wishes,neil

[John Hill]

I think you have made the right decision Neil, you have done the hard bit, buying and starting. At some point in the future you will be pleased you carried on. Just keep focussed on "that day", it trundles down the garden path.
best wishes john hill

[Fabrice Le Roux]

Neil,

Stick with it!

re paint probs Try degreasing the machined alu parts, then lightly key the exposed edges and surfaces with wet n dry. If you can get to a grit blaster cabinet then it saves a lot of elbow grease. Have tried several acid etch primers but now stick with upol#8 stuff from Halfords. Leaving lots of time between coats of paint seems not to be a problem for either of us...

I put a coat of red oxide primer over the grey etch, then top coats. Wear n tear then exposes the red oxide. Free weathering fx as I see it!

Good luck.

Fabrice

[neil pudney]

Thanks Fabrice for the help re the primer and painting its much appreciated i will try the method you describe.Luckily i have only made a start on the first bogie and haven't touched the rest yet.I will try the halfords etch primer, the red oxide is that sprayed or hand painted on?

best wishes,neil

[John Hill]

Hi Neil,
I have found that the Upol#8 is one of the best etch primers, it dries to a nice hard not too thick shell. I de-burr everything and clean with Gun Thinners ( from your local car paint supplier ). Where you get the odd patch that lifts, a good rub over with gun thinner, dry and repaint. Stock aluminium has a natural oxidized surface which can prevent the etch from bonding.
Try to resist too much painting until you have parts fitting together nicely, take time to de-burr, remove sharp edges clean holes etc. I use a hand scraper most of the time it is more accurate and removes less metal than a file. It is good for those little burrs that the machining process produces. For me getting it all to fit is the key to a good build.
Hope this helps, John H.

[neil pudney]

Thanks John for that info

best wishes,neil