Ideas for Tank weathering etc

Allan Webster · Post by **Allan Webster** » Wed Oct 20, 2010 7:59 am

I would feel a little more comfortable with the more extreme cases of weathering if the modellers concerned could produce photos of the vehicles that they are trying to represent in use during WWII. I can't help but suspect that the condition of some is more representative of 25+ years in the scrapyard than several months in the field. Some of the more subtly weathered are beautifully done though.

Jim Fowler · Post by **Jim Fowler** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 2:44 pm

Guys,

I am probably puting my opinion where is doesn't belong......

but....

I see wheathering a stactic model as a bit different from weathering a RC - type of model. For me, its sort of like "still" photography vs video.

The who;e concept of a lot of wheathering techniques is aimed toward the moment in time concept of photography. And, to me, it works pretty wel in that venue.

But, when that same subject is a moving one.....not all of those same techniques are going to comeoff so well....

I can never say that this is right and this is wrong because I am not the model owner and it really is for them to say...IMHO.

But, I can offer up this. We have models that can "live" in the field and weather on their own.... And, we have models that can actually even be repaired, repainted, and refurbished....

......our tmodel are a bit closer to their subject than most of the weathering articles you find are geared for.....

So, find what suits you as the owner.... and, if that changes over time.... never fear.....

I guess, I could adive folks to lean toward the subtle - its a safe play, but I have seen AWESOME heavy weathered models.

Allan Richards · Post by **Allan Richards** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 10:42 pm

I think that as well as the living model factor there is a scaling effect in play also. I am sure that the 1/35 scale models can take much heavier weathering than the 1/6th without looking too over done. To me painting these 1/35 models is about enhancing the 3D effect, hence the use of washes and dry brushing to emphasise depth. I agree that one needs to be more subtle on the larger models and the safest method is to build up the weathering until it looks right. If you are going to run your models in the dirt and mud then paint weathering tracks and road wheels is not really worth the effort as they very soon take on their own patina.

Paul Morris · Post by **Paul Morris** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 7:49 am

Hi fellas.

This is an interesting subject and one that has been touched on befor from different angles, I must say that I agree with what Jim and Alan have said and I especially like Jims description that we have models that "Live in the field" its a brilliant description of what we have, almost as though we can create our own piece of 1/6 history whenever we run or tanks...great

.
I think you can "get away" with paint schemes in 1/35 and to a lesser degree in 1/16, in ways that just do not seem to work in 1/6, I once set off and copied a 1/35 model that I had built years before and had always planned to do on my first 1/6 tank, thinking it would look the same only better due to the size....well I ended up starting again, as it just looked too busy and did not seem to work at all, just my thoughts on a very interesting topic.
Cheers Paul

leesellars · Post by **leesellars** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:55 pm

Hello Chaps

I have to agree with Paul on this one. I also have found that 1/35th doesn't work in 1/6th. The washes and filters, paint chips etc are very different in these scales. Tanks did get battle worn and lived in. To replicate these there is a lot of trail and error in makeing these models look like the real thing.
I spend a lot of time researching i know Paul does too. It takes a very Keen eye on desiphering photos in black and white. to make these models loook they way they did in real life. It all depends on what you want your model to look like. No vehicals where in the theatre of war for long periods of time as they where returned to the workshop for overhaul and new paint to mach the surroundings. Tanks were not in action every day and they did travel from one place to another. One thing is definate they did get dusty and muddy and very oilly.
Now here is a Top tip: Just look at what is around you. Rain and mud on vehicals havent changed since day 1.

Paul Morris · Post by **Paul Morris** » Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:13 pm

Hi fellas.

I think Lee is spot on there, and to follow on from Lee's tip here is another, as far as mud and rain streaking is concerned have a look at machinery on a building site or perhaps carrying out roadworks you will see the streaking from top to bottom on cabs etc that we are all... as modellers trying to replicate, and of course mud grease and oil stains are all there for you to see.
Cheers Paul