Tension- Mod

[Holger Hoffmann]

Hi.

I was with my Tiger in the field than on the road after 2 hours on the last left rear
wheel breaks off the Torsion Bar.This is not too bad, but the Tension Bolt from the
Idler Tension Arm go out from the Tension Cup.
So i had no Track tension to drive back the Tiger in my Car.Therefore I modify this
assembly.
A Platte ,two rings,and to screws hold the Tensionbolt in place. To assemble the outer
Tensioncover, the screws must be shortened.





The long rod is not one of them

[Robert E Morey]

Holger, that is a good idea. I've thought of doing something similar on my Panther. Thanks for sharing you idea.
Bob

[Chang]

Hi Holger,
I'm thinking if screwing in a nut on the tension bolt (See the red oval in your photo), to force the rectangular tension bolt plate stay where it should be. Then maybe the two rings, short screws are not needed.

I was trying this on my King Tiger, only the sloped rear hull makes it impracticable. In Tiger 1, it should works (I think).

Please advise me if it is still impracticable here. Thanks!

Lerh Chang

[Holger Hoffmann]

Hi, Chang.


With a Lock-Nut in this area, the Tensionbolt from the outside can not be rotated to adjust the Track tension. So I can loosen the Track from the outside, if they put in a sample stranded on the drive wheel, without having to open the Tank. The screw is inserted from the inside as original, only slightly longer (70 mm).
I'm experimenting with a Construction, which claims a fundamental tension, and secured with a very strong spring, a movement over a length of 10-15mm permitted to compensate for extreme Track tension through mud or snow. Bulldozers and Excavators have something like that.

[Chang]

Hi Holger,
Thanks for the explanations. Would like to see your strong-spring-fundamental tension layout. Always interested in seeing new idea on modification.
Cheers,
Lerh Cahng

[Allan Richards]

Holger,

I am not sure if you might have assembled the tensioning device slightly wrong. Your damage was caused by debris getting in the tracks and over tensioning them. A typical problem with the Tiger as debris gets caught between the two track horns and then gets pulled around the rear return roller causing the tracks to over tension and usually break. In your tank the retaurn roller shaft needs to be turned 180 degrees in the tensioning arm, then as the track tensions it will push the tensioning screw into the backplate of the tank, not try and pull it out as happened to you. I have had quite a few track links break as the ground around the area I live has lots of small stones which are ideal for getting caught between the track horns so I made a spring tensioning device as shown in the pictures. The front piece fixes on top of the torsion bar screws and the spring is from a cheap folding camping chair. You will have to drill the thread out of the brass bit or make a new one with a clearance hole for the screw. You will see that even with a screwdriver rammed in the return roller the track does not break and I have not broken a track since doing this modification.

[Jeff Hyder]

Hi Alan,
I noticed that you did this mod a while back.I have thougth of doing it but have'nt got round to it yet.I have also noticed of late that you have been quiet on the forum so its good to hear from you.
Cheers Jeff Hyder.

[Allan Richards]

Hi Jeff,

I admit I've been quiet on the Forum but I still visit and check out the threads about once a week. The KT and PII are very nice models but not for me. I haven't touched the tanks for a few months since completing the Sherman and I can't really justify another model just now. The boss says one must go if I want another one!! The Comet really interests me which would mean that the Tiger would have to go - what a delema!!

[Holger Hoffmann]

Hi, Allan

The Torisions rod is broken, because I've filed down too far, about half. This was too much. Your idea looks nice.