Easy Eight No22

[David Hartwell]

Switch positioning.

Started with the system power switch. Drilled the little hole for the external tab washer in the little box thingy the switch mounts in. Then some off the shelf angle for a couple of brackets.

The fixings go right through the box with locknuts on the other side.

Then marked its position under the deck keeping it parallel to the filler cap mountings.

Then marked and drilled fixing holes.The correct length fixings will be used on final assembly.

Had a slot machined in the filler cap with plenty of clearance for the toggle sticking through the deck.

Just enough toggle sticking through to operate. Some little stickers for once it has all been painted.

That is that one completed.

Then made a top hat bracket for the smoke unit switch.

Slot drilled and filed for the switch.

Mounting holes drilled and painted.

Hole punch used to enlarge existing hole.

Nibbed off the sharp edges on the new hole then mounted the switch like so.

View from above.

Completed. Just the middle filler cap to do.

[Derek Attree]

Hi David
That's a very neat solution for the switch
and a very good build of this E8.

Regards Derek

[Robert E Morey]

I've used those filler ports for charge sockets, but never switches. Clever location and nice details!
Bob

[David Hartwell]

Thank you for the comments Derek and Bob. As you say Bob they could be used for charging sockets, another good idea. I am hoping if all goes to plan, which it sometimes doesn't, to put a main battery isolator and charging sockets under the front hatches. And the middle filler cap on the rear deck will be the fill point for the smoke unit, hopefully. I need to confirm what thread is used for the filler tube on the smoke unit before I do that but busy on other things at the moment.

Regards Dave.

[David Hartwell]

So to the final part of the grill bars.

Once the 638 had cured found a way to hold them in the vice. Then filed the backs of the blocks to match the tube.

Like so.

A little bit of prep and then a coat of primer to check the finish.

Then assembled and lined everything up. Then drilled through the deck for the second fixing in the pivot blocks.

Drilled and tapped the back panel for the two fixings in that block. Now I could mark and cut the inner bars.

Like so.

Then fixed the remaining outer tubes with 638 and once cured a bit of prep and paint.

The button heads will be replaced on final assembly. I think hex heads will look better.

Just a few pics to finish off.

At last, they are finished.

[simon_manning]

Very Nice, regards simon.

[David Hartwell]

Thank you for the comment Simon, much appreciated.

Decided to build the Armorpax 50cal. It is a lovely kit supplied by Dave and goes together with the minimal of fettling. Really enjoyed building this up.

Took care when fitting the barrel to the main body making sure it was inline.

One tiny mod. I drilled a 2.1ish hole up the end.

I like the way the parts pin together.

Still need to make up the ammo box but I don't need that at the moment.

So now I have built that up I can work out the front support bracket.

I am guessing that this must sit at an angle when it sits in that support thingy as I can't find a photo of it in use.

So armed with a rough measurement I think I will make up something and see what it looks like.

[Kevin Hunter]

Any help?
Kevin

[David Hartwell]

Thank you Kevin, that is exactly what I was after. You have no idea how long I have spent looking for a picture like that.
Looks like my very temporary red plastic box height was almost there. Once again thank you for helping.
Regards,
Dave.

[David Hartwell]

To finish off the 50 cal I started looking at the ammo box.

What I wanted was the lid hinged but in the fully open position. I wasn't going to attempt drilling the tiny little hinge points and even if I could I don't think it would have fully opened because of the positioning of them. So I found a 40mm dolls house hinge was about as close as what was there.

Filed all the little lugs off.

Set the hinge in the box side and loctited like so. A little bit of filling. At the end of the day you won't see this anyway.

I think that will look ok once painted.

So now I had the lid pivoting I decided to make a replacement locking bar catch thingy, whatever its called, and have that pivoting as well. I couldn't use the original as it didn't have enough at the ends to go up the tube. Some 2mm tube and 1mm round bar.

Filed the bit off the edge of the lid.

Then loctited a piece of the 2mm tube on.

Then a little skim off filler either side of the tube to give it a little more strength and fitted the replacement bar handle catch thingy.

All pivots nicely.

I think it looks ok. Into the paint queue and must remember to order a couple more of these boxes for the luggage rack.

[Vince Cutajar]

Nice mod to the ammo box and no special tools required to do it.

Vince

[David Hartwell]

Thank you for the comment Vince, much appreciated.
Onwards we go.

Started by making the curved bracket for the sledgehammer and drilling and filing the slot.

Now I have the measurement for the rear leg.

Made like so and fixed to a plate for a spot weld. Pretty sure it goes half way ish across the top of the curved section.

Filed out for the rear leg.

Fixed like so.

Yep, happy with that.

Then drilled and filed a little slot for the other bracket.

Wide enough so the bracket can hook through.

Fixing added.

That will be filled and a little fake weld added later on.

Then made up a plug, like I did for the spanner, to fill the hole in the deck.

May not look pretty underneath but does the job.

Tiny bit of filling to do at prep stage.

Apart from the tying down handle looking thingy, whatever its called, I think that little area is almost complete. Now onto the rest of the tools.