Armortek

Hi,

As a new member waiting for my M26 Pershing delivery, I am trying to get some knowledge on paint types to use on the model.
I have read everything I can so far, but want to clarify a couple of things.
I understand to use the etching primer first, but for the top coat I would like to know what most people use that works well. I have read that acrylic is good, but am wondering if standard exterior house paint is the type of acrylic that can be used. John at East Coast Armory uses that, but is Tamiya acrylic different than house paint (I suspect it is in some way)?

Is Tamiya paint preferred? Or is there some other form of acrylic paint I should look for?

Or best to use a rattle can acrylic paint found at hardware stores (water based)?

Thanks.

Paint is personal. Use what’s easiest?!

Well I am concerned about what is best that will adhere properly to the etch primer based on user experience. I am just a bit confused about what type of acrylic paint is best. Thanks. Also Brian, I found your You-tube videos very helpful, and especially liked the Panther G unboxing. Considered getting that but then opted for the M26 just because I don't see that many American tanks.

-Ray

So a follow up to my original question on paint types. I have done a lot of experimenting (not on the tank) with Tamiya paints in spray cans and bottles.
I have found the sprays work well but you are bound by the color available from Tamiya. I used Olive Drab as a test, which I found a bit too green for my tastes, so I started mixing bottle paints, Olive Drab with about 10% Khaki Drab. In an airbrush, it needs to be thinned very thin about 50/50 or 70/30 thinner to paint.
But, for those who are using these paints, I have a question. Tamiya bottle paints being acrylic water alcohol based, are able to be completely removed from a painted surface even after it has been dried for weeks, with simple alcohol. I found out by cleaning a surface with Windex (which has some alcohol in it) and it wiped the paint off!

So users must be putting some topcoat on, to protect it I assume. I ask out of curiosity at this point because I have switched to using a lacquer based paint instead.

I found Krylon spray paint at Lowes Home Center called Camouflage Olive which is what I was looking for in color. It far less green than Tamiya spray, if that is what you might be looking for.

I also ordered a spray can of Olive Drab from a company that specializes in Willys/Jeep army stuff and they sell Olive Drab in spray as well as in gallons.
I'll let you know how it looks when I get it next week.

-Ray

Clean and then prep the surface with a da sander or fine sandpaper to get a good key.
Panel wipe all grease away
Etch prime with whatever you can get hold of, and undercoat if you desire.
Military paint from a popular auction site works well as top coat and is vastly cheaper than tamiya paint.

You will use a lot more than you think, lots of light coats are better, work in a well ventilated area.
Don’t rush it.

Paul Sparkes wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 14, 2023 8:27 am

Clean and then prep the surface with a da sander or fine sandpaper to get a good key.
Panel wipe all grease away
Etch prime with whatever you can get hold of, and undercoat if you desire.
Military paint from a popular auction site works well as top coat and is vastly cheaper than tamiya paint.

You will use a lot more than you think, lots of light coats are better, work in a well ventilated area.
Don’t rush it.

Thanks Paul,
I have done everything that you mentioned. The only reason why I started using Tamiya pants was because I saw it mentioned here that some users have used it with an airbrush. And I thought that would be a nice way to control the spray. I just found it surprising that the Tamiya pants would liquify again simply by spraying alcohol or Windex on them. I understand now that a final clearcoat is necessary to lock it in. However, I have switched to a paint and color I have found to be the perfect answer for me in a spray can from Krylon which is lacquer based.

-Ray