2012 Tiger 1 (Late) rebuild - s.Pz-Abt.510

[Tim Page]

The paint finish is not uniform at all.
There is some evidence of primer in places put not in others, the paint is also quite flakey in places which i assume to be from either parts not degreased properly or not having used an etch primer. It most areas the paint seems to be ok.
As it stands i am going to have to remove all the flaking paint and then sand to get a good key and then use a good primer. Fingers crossed that will be enough.

Anyway, I have done a few jobs over this last week so the slow and steady progress continues. This will not be a quick project.
I removed the sharp edge around the opening of the kugelblende with my shiney new Proxxon minidrill.
I managed to kill off my last Dremel a few months ago and was pleased that Santa helped me out.

IMG-6322s.jpg (168.57 KiB) Viewed 1452 times

IMG-6323s.jpg (150.99 KiB) Viewed 1452 times

I am planning to add a servo mount to the rear of the mg mount in due course and will probably 3d print the parts.
Speaking of which, I have now fitted the 4 engine hatch locks which i drew up in CAD and 3d printed in resin.
I printed these out at 8mm diameter and .5mm below the height of the deck which i think looks reasonable.

IMG-6324s.jpg (153.78 KiB) Viewed 1452 times

It would be cool if i can get these made in metal but resin will have to do for the moment.

IMG-6325s.jpg (173.26 KiB) Viewed 1452 times

I also test fitted the Steve Winstone air inlet (Fiefel) cover. I will have to recess all these square headed holts as they all sit too high. Added to the task list for a rainy day.

I removed ther tracks this evening and then turned the tank upside down so that i could remove the sprockets and make a start stripping the road wheels.
It took ages to remove the left hand drive sprocket so decided to call it a night. Will remove the other side tomorrow.
While it is upside down i checked the 2 new engine access hatched i had made to see what they looked like. these have been printed in PLA and i will be interested to see how well they stand up to the task on the underside of a Tiger 1.

IMG-6330s.jpg (144.34 KiB) Viewed 1452 times

I think the rectangular plate is a bit too big but i wanted it to cover the round pattern holes from the original round plate. I am not too bothered tbh as it is still an improvement and i searched high and low for dimensions so made a guess in the end.

I am also planning to remove all the hex headed bolts securing the belly plate and replacing with a set of countersunk bolts.

Thats it for tonights update but will post again in a few days.

Cheers
Tim

[Robert E Morey]

Great details being added Tim. Watching with Interest! I need to do those mods on my tiger 1
Bob

[Tim Page]

Started work on the Tiger 1 cupola today.
I decided that there were a few basic jobs to be done on the cupola to get it closer to my liking.

IMG_6184s.JPG (171.2 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

As you can see in the pix above, this is how my Tiger had been assembled and I suppose, it was absolutely fine as it was.
However, after looking at pix of other late Tiger 1 at Vimoutiers and Saumur i realised that i could do a bit or work to improve the original parts.
The rear of the armoured periscope covers is angled and has been welded closed but the Armortek parts are square and open.

Vimoutiers_0515s.jpg (325 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

So, I stripped the cupola down and cleaned up all the old epoxy.
I then got out my 4" grinder added a slope to the rear of the armoured covers. I think i scribed a line 2mm back from the rears and then started grinding. I then tidied up with a file.

IMG-6531s.jpg (162.83 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

IMG-6532s.jpg (150.05 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

IMG-6533s.jpg (247.54 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

I then made some plasticard pieces to block in the rears of the Periscope housings and these were then glued in place.

IMG-6534s.jpg (145.05 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

IMG-6535s.jpg (143.03 KiB) Viewed 1200 times

This will be left to dry overnight and then move onto the next jobs which will be to add the 2 umbrella mounts and the turret lid stop.
I have also got to adjust the position of the mg ring because it was not quite in the right place.
This will get epoxied into position and then i will prime everything but then have to pause until i get the new cupola hatch cover arm ordered from Armotek.
I have a few parts to order to replace parts that were either missing from my build or now broken/damaged.
So, in the mean time i am picking away on a few odd jobs.
I am waiting for some m4 countersunk hex bolts to replace the original bolts fixing the torsion bar fails to the floor.
The hull is upside down right now but i hope to get this job done and then get the new rectangular access plate fitted before getting some new dunkelgelb onto the Tigers belly.
After that i can flip it over and start stripping down the roadwheels.

I realise that working on my Panther an Tiger at the same time is probably not the most efficient use of my time but it certainly keeps things interesting.

Cheers
Tim

[Vince Cutajar]

Love the upgrades you are doing to your Tiger.

Vince

[Tim Page]

Did a bit of fettling with the mg ring last night to make it fit a bit better.
I could not get it to exactly where i wanted it to be positioned but it was greatly improved so i got the epoxy out and left it overnight to cure.

IMG-6537s.jpg (171.8 KiB) Viewed 1135 times

IMG-6538s.jpg (144.62 KiB) Viewed 1135 times

IMG-6539s.jpg (147.55 KiB) Viewed 1135 times

Back into the garage now to add the umbrella mounts and the stop for the cupola lid.

Cheers
Tim

[Tim Page]

2nd and probably final update today.
Spent a couple of hours adding some more details to the cupola, cleaned up a bit and then gave it a squirt of etch primer to see what it all looks like.
I added 4mm brass tube for the umbrella mounts and then some flat brass for the other bits.

IMG-6546s.jpg (128.37 KiB) Viewed 1104 times

These close up pix really show how much more cleaning up i have to do but at least with it in grey primer, I can now see what needs additional work.

IMG-6545s.jpg (170.44 KiB) Viewed 1104 times

IMG-6544s.jpg (154.84 KiB) Viewed 1104 times

IMG-6543s.jpg (163.72 KiB) Viewed 1104 times

IMG-6542s.jpg (162.27 KiB) Viewed 1104 times

I will continue with the cleanup and then make a start on the weld lines soon.

Cheers
Tim

[Tim Page]

Have got a bit of a problem with one of the parts of the rear deck which is broken.
It was all glued down when i got it with a blob of epoxy holding it in place.

IMG_6557s.JPG (141.51 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

I am not sure if have the skills and or tools to fix it myself. I guess it could be milled out and a new piece made from alu and then epoxied and or bolted in place but probably a bit beyond me.

I have sent an email asking about cost and availability to replace it with a new part. I guess I will wait and see if they have a spare and what the cost is before i make a decision.

IMG_6554s.JPG (125.79 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

I had a go on the right hand front sprocket yesterday evening to see what i could do.

IMG-6564s.jpg (188.1 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

The edges of the spokes are square and sharp so cried out for some attention from Mr. Dremel (Proxxon).
This is what it should look like.

DSC_0439s.jpg (226.06 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

I rounded off the sharp edges and all the loose paint and then decided to add some casting numbers.
I masked off the centers first to keep the dirt out.

IMG_6558s.JPG (166.88 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

IMG_6562s.JPG (152.79 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

Unfortunately, I could not see any clear numbers from any of my books or online sources so ended up using the same numbers that i have seen used before on other Tiger 1 projects.

So DKR 28 with a 43 date was applied using some 5mm Slaters plastic numbers.

IMG_6560s.JPG (128.06 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

I then applied some Mr Surfacer 500 to add a bit of casting effect and then red primer once it had dried.

IMG_6559s.JPG (129.01 KiB) Viewed 1019 times

I would be very interested if anyone has any other 43 or 44 dated numbers that i could use for the other side.

Will make a start on the other side tonight but wont add any numbers just yet.

I am still undecided if i want to replace the original m2.5 caphead bolts with something more suitable.
I had a look last night but all the hex headed bolts i found had markings on them so not sure.

Not too excited at the prospect of removing and then replacing with loctite 80 small nuts and bolts tbh.

I expect that once the tracks are in place that i wont be able to see them either.

Cheers
Tim

[Tim Page]

So much for a 'simple' plan for this evening - cant get the other sprocket off.
I cant get the key out and winding the screw into the removal hole did nothing.
The other side was a pain too but i could get the key out which allowed it to rotate on the shaft and i could then get it off.
This side is solid.
Have sprayed some wd40 on it and will try again tomorow.

Anyway, I ended up fitting the countersunk M4 screws into the belly plate so that is one job ticked off and not a total waste of the evening.
Used plenty of loctite 220 threadlock so hopefully they wont fall out.

IMG-6565s.jpg (106.46 KiB) Viewed 955 times

It should look a fair bit better when painted.

IMG-6329s.jpg (147.15 KiB) Viewed 953 times

I then bolted the round and the rectangular inspection plates into place.

IMG-6567s.jpg (184.73 KiB) Viewed 955 times

IMG-6566s.jpg (155.45 KiB) Viewed 955 times

Thats all for tonight.

Hopefully will be able to get the sprocket removed tomorow otherwise i am a bit stuck.
Has anyone got any clever methods to remove stubborn sprockets?

Cheers
Tim

[Phil Woollard]

Hi Tim ref the sprocket, as all the grub screws are out, you should have enough clearance behind the sprocket to knock it back leaving the taper lock in place, the taper lock should then give up its grip, if not a little heat might help. If you end up cracking the taper lock
( as it's cast iron) it's no big deal as they are very cheap and can be purchased from eBay.
Phil

[Tim Page]

Thanks Phil.
I have tried tapping it from the front as suggested in the build manual and also from the rear. I am concerned that i might bend something though.
Applied some heat as well but still did not move - maybe worth another attempt tonight.

Cheers
Tim

[Vince Cutajar]

I know some people will cringe, but I used a gear puller.

Vince

[Tim Page]

Hi Vince, at this point i am (almost) willing to try anything.
The old 3 leg gear puller i have does not fit the Tiger but worked with my Panzer 3.
I tried it last night in desparation and realised it is broken so might be worth looking at a new one.

What sort do you have?

Tim

[Vince Cutajar]

I used it a couple of times during my build. Can't remember if I used the two or three legged puller. Sorry.

Vince

[Adrian Harris]

You have to be surprisingly strong with the release screw to break the hold of the taper lock. I keep a couple of long handled Allen keys just for this job.

Adrian

[Tim Page]

Thanks Adrian.
I was reluctant to use too much force last night and was half expecting the allen key to snap.

I have some good feedback now so will have another go tonight.

Cheers
Tim