Armortek

As the (model) year draws to a close, with just one last show to run in Holland next month, here are a few pics of a year´s end running gear maintenance of a JT...Taper lock corrosion....
...with the help of a gear puller (Thanks again Kian!!)...
...soil buid up ....
...removed...
...gear ok. Just needing cleaning and greasing...

Hi Peter,

full service is an important requirement for full operational capability.........

That's handy - you can run the tanks during the summer and grow kartoffeln during the winter.

Adrian.

That amount of mud shows that you don't run "Carpet Tanks", and demonstrates how these models cope with serious use in all sorts of conditions. Interesting photos. Steve

you have been running this tank in some real dirt - could it be some of it is from Denmark

Here is a pic taken during the "mudbath".

I am wonder why you have used a three jaw puller on the drive sprocket when the tapper lock has a threaded hole for it's removal.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250

Shayne Sutton wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 28, 2022 3:41 pm

I am wonder why you have used a three jaw puller on the drive sprocket when the tapper lock has a threaded hole for it's removal.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250

Because of the corrosion I couldn´t get it off with the single screw.

I have to use a puller on my Tiger Drive sprockets. The screws in the taper lock don't do the biz!
Steve

In my working life I have used hundreds of tapper locks on many different application and not on one occasion have I had to use a puller, if you use a puller you drive the sprocket back onto the tapper lock making it harder to remove.

Peter Quambusch wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 28, 2022 7:16 pm

Shayne Sutton wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 28, 2022 3:41 pm

I am wonder why you have used a three jaw puller on the drive sprocket when the tapper lock has a threaded hole for it's removal.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250

Because of the corrosion I couldn´t get it off with the single screw.

You need to use a Neversieze on the shaft and a dry joint on the tapper, you break the tapper with the screw so the the sprocket is separated, you can use a small wedge into the bush and give a bit of clearance, using a puller drives the sprocket harder onto the tapper lock , I have done hundreds of tapper locks though out my working life and have never had to use a puller.

Shayne Sutton wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 28, 2022 3:41 pm

I am wonder why you have used a three jaw puller on the drive sprocket when the tapper lock has a threaded hole for it's removal.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250

Thanks for reminding me Shayne.
I tried to unscrew the taper lock several times, after soaking it in WD40 for several days, but broke the Allen key in the process...THUS the puller.

Peter Quambusch wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 30, 2022 11:36 am

Shayne Sutton wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 28, 2022 3:41 pm

I am wonder why you have used a three jaw puller on the drive sprocket when the tapper lock has a threaded hole for it's removal.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250

Thanks for reminding me Shayne.
I tried to unscrew the taper lock several times, after soaking it in WD40 for several days, but broke the Allen key in the process...THUS the puller.

If you have an issue breaking the tapper lock, you should be able to use a longer hex head bolt with it's end ground the same as the grub screws, I also suggest you look at the quality of your allen keys along with the use of the correct one for the grub screws, I have seen many people use imperial on metric grub screws and strip the hex, the initial torque being applied to lock it in the first place is critical for it's removal. the higher the torque the more you stretch the hub as you drive the tapper lock into it, lubricate the set bolts, the shaft but not the tapper as you will just keep pulling it into the hub.

What we need to remember is taper locks are designed for harder materials.

I have removed hundreds of pulleys with taper locks on industrial machines without issue.

The aluminium gears used, seem to hold the taper lock. I recently removed the taper lock from my JT and it took forever.
I tried tapping the gear inwards to break the hold but the whole lot just moved in on the shaft
I ended up applying heat with a hot air gun to expand the gear and then soft wedges to ease it off.
Everything had been installed by the book.

Cleaned and sanded everything. Than greased and assembled it again. When trying to disassemble, I used a bigger screw to get more torque, but without success..... When using the puller, I can easily pull the sprocket off the axle w/o having to use the middle screw. But it´s only the JT that gives me this problem. It´s also the first rusty assembly I´ve ever had with my AT models. My KT has been driven for over 12 years now without anything like this....