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Hello all. Salutations and felicitations on this glorious Monday from the colonies.

As I wrap up work on my M3, now just waiting to apply final touch up paint then insignias I reflect back on what's what.
I implemented a 'control' box from which I am able to have a main battery cutoff, disable the main drive motors
so that other radio tests made be made with worrying that the model will take off when I inadvertently bump the stick
(ask me how I very nearly shredded a thumb on a Kavan helicopter tail rotor many years ago!) as well as having a redundant
circuit protector. I have used flexible 10awg silicon shielded wire and high quality XT60 connectors for anything I've made or touched.

All functions are under my control except for a pesky two items which I'm sure is my doing. From the start I have never had proportional
sound tied to the main drive motors although selecting sounds with a 3 position switch works perfectly ( "enemy sighted!")
and activates the appropriate firing and recoil, siren and whatnot. Now for some reason I've lost the MG flash as well, sound is there
but no flash- I thought this had worked early on but perhaps my recollection is amiss. When selecting the 75 mm for firing I do get
the sound, recoil and flash although it seems suspiciously an Mg- like flash. I imagine herein lies one of my questions: what is the difference
between LED 1-3 on the recoil module? I've tried all three and it seems that only the one does anything although my tests are by no means
exhaustive or conclusive. I've tried looking on the site for more in detail descriptions of the connections or ports on these units but
I'm unable to find them. I read that there was a schematic page once upon a time but no longer.

Having read that one too many attempts at programming the sound unit might bugger the thing I've decided not to try that again. I can live without the proportional sound ( although I'd really like to have that) and LED issue. Bear in mind that I as always swimming against the stream use my left stick to control both motors with the associated channels mixed appropriately; unsure if this affects the proportional sound feature. I do have the sound and motion control modules set up, I believe, appropriately to the channels I'm using for motors 1 and 2. Again I'm sure it looks right as that's the way I want to see it!

On the whole as my first Armortek construction I like it, It's a very good model, a good product and I'm decidedly hooked as my growing pile of
these kits will attest.

Jerry

Whether you use the left or right sticks is immaterial, the Audio Module doesn't care which sticks are being moved, just what the channels are doing.

Do you have the Red Modules in your Lee ?

With the Red Modules, as long as you have the motor drive signals going to In1 and In2 and the control signal going into In3 you should be set.

Press the Programming Button with the sticks centred. System beeps.
Move the sticks so that the tracks are just moving and toggle the sound control switch on the transmitter. (Plays short burst of slow engine)
Move the sticks so that the tracks are running at full speed and toggle the sound control switch again. (Plays short burst of fast engine)

Turn off and on again and it should be set. Will need resetting if you change transmitter or receiver.

I have several sound boards here which have been re-programmed I don't know how many times over the years.

I can't comment on the MG because my Grant is fitted with the "Wiggly Gun Pack" (© Chris Hall) but I would have thought it should be on the Audio Module Output 3 or 4 (again, assuming Red Boxes).

Adrian.

Thanks Adrian, I thought I followed the programming procedure as you described, heard the response at each step as you described when performing the procedure; at least twice with the same results, however I'm willing to try again and I think I'll re-check my connections- it's the only thing that might explain the missing function.

Yes I have the red control modules all 'round...

I must say the level of sound the audio module is capable of producing is alarming. I have mine set to not even 1/4 of full and can barely stand next to it. I can't imagine what one of your club days is like if there are numbers of these beasts driving about with the sound cranked up!

Jerry

Adrian Harris wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 06, 2021 6:19 pm

the "Wiggly Gun Pack" (© Chris Hall)

As flattered as I am, the honour for this one belongs to Gill Watkins, with regard to the Mark IV …..

I only know of 1 instance where the new version of sound cards lost its programming as a result of the programming button being pushed for too long and several times in a short space of time - but never been able to replicate it, so there may have been other root causes.

Jerry - if you are not getting proportional sound then the likelihood is that the RC connections into RC IN 1 and/or RC IN 2 are not picking up the signal from the receiver. I would start there if I were you.
To recap - the 2 Receiver channels used to drive the tank need to be connected to the 2 RC "Y" cables - one end of each Y cable should go to Module A (to drive the motors) and the other to the Sound Module (for the proportional sound).

Armortek wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 07, 2021 8:53 am

I only know of 1 instance where the new version of sound cards lost its programming as a result of the programming button being pushed for too long and several times in a short space of time - but never been able to replicate it, so there may have been other root causes.

Jerry - if you are not getting proportional sound then the likelihood is that the RC connections into RC IN 1 and/or RC IN 2 are not picking up the signal from the receiver. I would start there if I were you.
To recap - the 2 Receiver channels used to drive the tank need to be connected to the 2 RC "Y" cables - one end of each Y cable should go to Module A (to drive the motors) and the other to the Sound Module (for the proportional sound).

Thanks for the suggestions. I only mentioned the sound card possibility as I read it in the module-specific section on the sound module; I imagine that was describing an older version.

Well as soon as I return from assisting my fair lady receive her new washer and dryer pair I'll check out the cables themselves. I have had cables
be the source of problems with other systems. Especially when the contacts are crimped onto the insulation itself not the bare wire: all looks well but electrically it is not. I'll check the 'Y's. As I have control of the motors I suspect the cables from the receiver channels are good.

Jerry

After examination I found that one of the two extensions from the sound module to the "Y" connector was not seated properly; more precisely
the signal pin of the "Y" was not engaging the male connector of the extension. I have never seen that before, didn't even know it was mechanically possible.

Long story short I have proportional sound. All that remains are MG LEDs which I'll deal with at a later date.

I was planning to make my long promised video today but it was too darn hot outside...

Jerry