Hi Guys
Two questions here:
The first is that there is a lot of horizontal play on the wheel axles which requires a lot of shimming.
So should these be shimmed up until the wheel sits tight on the axle or just left a bit loose so it can move around a bit.
The second question is having glued the bearing in place to the wheel should I now glue the shaft to the bearing because
at the moment it is just turning within the bearing sheath. I guess when there is weight on it this would change.
All advice welcome!
Bob
UC Bearings
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Graham P Hough
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2020 8:51 pm
- Has liked: 26 times
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Re: UC Bearings
Bob
Was your question answered elsewhere?
If not there are spacer washers in with the kit plus when you tighten the axle it takes up a lot of play. Re the sleeve inside the bearing I haven't glued it to the bearing, I have let it move freely.
Was your question answered elsewhere?
If not there are spacer washers in with the kit plus when you tighten the axle it takes up a lot of play. Re the sleeve inside the bearing I haven't glued it to the bearing, I have let it move freely.
Re: UC Bearings
Dear Graham
Many thanks for replying.
I am afraid you are becoming my model building mentor.
There is some play on the wheels and this is due in part to a variation in the width of the spacers provided.
What I don't know is how tight I can make the crown nuts before the casting snaps or something.
I have not glued the bearings onto the shaft either although I feel they should be because they slip with the bearing otherwise.
Maybe they just rely on the friction between the bearing and the axle like a railway wheel.
Why is the return wheel on a bush - should it not need a bearing as well.
There is also some horizontal play on the the main drive axle - should I shim that as well?
all the best
Bob
Many thanks for replying.
I am afraid you are becoming my model building mentor.
There is some play on the wheels and this is due in part to a variation in the width of the spacers provided.
What I don't know is how tight I can make the crown nuts before the casting snaps or something.
I have not glued the bearings onto the shaft either although I feel they should be because they slip with the bearing otherwise.
Maybe they just rely on the friction between the bearing and the axle like a railway wheel.
Why is the return wheel on a bush - should it not need a bearing as well.
There is also some horizontal play on the the main drive axle - should I shim that as well?
all the best
Bob
-
Graham P Hough
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sat Oct 24, 2020 8:51 pm
- Has liked: 26 times
- Been liked: 193 times
Re: UC Bearings
Hi Bob
I think I have sorted this issue out on mine now so here goes.
688 Bearings are glued into the wheel ER0202, the spacer tube ER0229 passes freely through the bearing. The hole through the end caps ER0205 should allow the axle ER0203 to pass through but NOT the spacer tube ER0229. So fit the wheel, spacer tube and end caps with the axle into the swing arms ER0204. Tighten up the nut so as to trap the spacer tube this allows you to tighten up the nuts. Now check if there is any side play if so disassemble and use the M8 shims to take up the play, the shims should fit over the spacer tube. You should be able to tighten the nuts without damaging the swing arms. About the idler wheels my old BSA A10 had plain bearing on the crankshaft so I think these on the UC should be OK.
Don't forget a dab of light grease on the axles as you assemble them.
Main shaft should have a little play so should be OK.
All best
I think I have sorted this issue out on mine now so here goes.
688 Bearings are glued into the wheel ER0202, the spacer tube ER0229 passes freely through the bearing. The hole through the end caps ER0205 should allow the axle ER0203 to pass through but NOT the spacer tube ER0229. So fit the wheel, spacer tube and end caps with the axle into the swing arms ER0204. Tighten up the nut so as to trap the spacer tube this allows you to tighten up the nuts. Now check if there is any side play if so disassemble and use the M8 shims to take up the play, the shims should fit over the spacer tube. You should be able to tighten the nuts without damaging the swing arms. About the idler wheels my old BSA A10 had plain bearing on the crankshaft so I think these on the UC should be OK.
Don't forget a dab of light grease on the axles as you assemble them.
Main shaft should have a little play so should be OK.
All best