Armortek

Can someone please confirm the thread size for the hubcaps please? I believe they are M20x1.5.

I have found that when trying to fit the caps to the wheel assembly they bind up hard halfway down requiring a pair of stilsons to remove them again. So I think that I will need to clear the treads with a suitable tap.

Hi Philip, aluminium on aluminium "picks up" real bad , use a rotary wire brush and buff the hell out of the male thread, Then use a light oil to lubricate and they should screw in just fine using only your fingers. If you have damaged the thread then you may have to tap the female.

Good advise above from Phil.

The thread on CK0209 is M22 x 1.5 (fine pitch)

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

Using a light application of copper slip is always a good idea on alloy.

I keep a set of taps on the bench and chase a lot of threads.

They come from the factory very nice... but it only takes a sliver to gall Aluminum. And there are chips here and there to be found...

Also, having compressed air at the bench is a great idea. If you don't have a compressor or an air line, you can get a small "Air Tanks" from the auto parts store for short $$. Fill it with 80 LBS of air and it will run an air chuck (blower) for days... Blowing out the holes is a good idea!

But hard to beat running a tap down holes just because.

Cheers,

RPR

I have cleaned all the hubcap parts, wire brushed them on a lathe, scrapped out the threads, oiled the threads, copper greased the threads and blown them out with compressed air. Despite all this I just cannot get the caps to close within 2/3 mm of the back plates when tightening firmly by hand. Is this gap ok or is there more I can do? I don’t possess taps and dies of this size.

Many thanks

I've not yet got into my KT kit however depending on how the hubcap thread is made, assuming there's a flange, the thread may be cut without a relief cut and it won't cinch up tight as the thread ends. If that is the case you could, very carefully, use your lath to cut a very thin relief cut just in front of the flange. That would allow the hubcap to tighten completely.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry.

I wonder what everyone also did?

Michael Allen wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 04, 2023 4:38 pm

Thanks Jerry.

I wonder what everyone also did?

Either they forced it, didn't have the problem or did and just left it. I've found the latter more often than not but like you I don't like it. On the 88 I'm rebuilding several parts that should tighten without gaps needed relief cuts (or rebate cuts - the technical term slips my mind).

I suppose one cut cut a relief on the female side but without a way of re-cutting the thread I'd shy away from suggesting that one.

Jerry

I should have called it an undercut.

This should be able to explain it better than I could.

Undercut

Jerry

Jerry

Many thanks for your assistance.

I’ve neither the skills or the nerve for that solution. I have cleaned all the threads, wire brushes them all, scrapped out every millimetre of thread with a very small file, I’ve deburred the back plate thread, blown them
out with compressed air and oiled all the threads. All of them tighten up a little over 1 mm short of the back plates when tightened by hand. I’ve no idea if this is by design or not or what will happen when I put the grips on them but I can see no choice but to leave them. Should I be using Loctite for these parts? It doesn’t say so in the instructions but I can’t see why not.