Mick's Grant
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Mick's Grant
Good evening gentlemen, good evening ladies, it's taken awhile. Some considerable thought, much hand wringing and pacing the room.
However given that, 'you can't take it with you'.....and 'there are no pockets in a shroud'. I came to the only conclusion...… yesterday afternoon Armortek despatched a Grant kit, this morning UPS delivered and deposited the said Grant kit on my workbench.....happy days, Mick
However given that, 'you can't take it with you'.....and 'there are no pockets in a shroud'. I came to the only conclusion...… yesterday afternoon Armortek despatched a Grant kit, this morning UPS delivered and deposited the said Grant kit on my workbench.....happy days, Mick
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Re: Mick's Grant
So very true Christoffer, I was born in that time period when you watched every penny, saved for your old age and tried to leave something for your children. I have been careful with my money all my life, so a little self indulgence.....I'm not really as sad as I sometimes sound. Mick.
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Re: Mick's Grant
Mornin each, I have made a start on the Grant build. I usually begin by printer copying all the build instruction, to keep the originals clean. Then I copy the box contents sheets and fix them to the 'wardrobe doors' for a quick reference, sad really
I have cleaned the road wheel and bogie parts and undercoated them. I have read and reread all the Forum build posts, a worthwhile effort, lots of information and useful tips.
Made a start on the bearings and axles. On the Forum I noted the problems with these parts. I have only cleaned and deburred one set. The bearings and axles are a 'push' fit, both into the wheel and the axle through the bearing. It is my first attempt, and I only mention this because of the difficulty other builders have experienced fitting these parts. Have I just been lucky or what
I noted on my brass bushes there is a small 'lip', is this there to stop the bush being inserted to far into the wheel hub.....Mick
I have cleaned the road wheel and bogie parts and undercoated them. I have read and reread all the Forum build posts, a worthwhile effort, lots of information and useful tips.
Made a start on the bearings and axles. On the Forum I noted the problems with these parts. I have only cleaned and deburred one set. The bearings and axles are a 'push' fit, both into the wheel and the axle through the bearing. It is my first attempt, and I only mention this because of the difficulty other builders have experienced fitting these parts. Have I just been lucky or what
I noted on my brass bushes there is a small 'lip', is this there to stop the bush being inserted to far into the wheel hub.....Mick
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Re: Mick's Grant
Good morning everyone,.... slow, but steady progress. I really enjoy constructing these Armortek models, all the fettling, the sore fingers etc,. Only joking, the posts on the Forum are an absolute mine of information. Thank you guys, I refer to them constantly.
Reference the Grant suspension, I decided that emery cloth and files would take far to long....so I went for the 'drill' option. One previous post makes reference to using drills to clear the bearing/axle holes. It works well, I used a two drills number 8 and 10. run the drill up and down in the bearing/axle holes carefully until clear to take the axle and bearing. Finish with fine emery cloth. I will follow the advice and add the springs after attaching the suspension to the hull.
Day out yesterday, marriage anniversary....62 years......it's my own fault, Mick
Reference the Grant suspension, I decided that emery cloth and files would take far to long....so I went for the 'drill' option. One previous post makes reference to using drills to clear the bearing/axle holes. It works well, I used a two drills number 8 and 10. run the drill up and down in the bearing/axle holes carefully until clear to take the axle and bearing. Finish with fine emery cloth. I will follow the advice and add the springs after attaching the suspension to the hull.
Day out yesterday, marriage anniversary....62 years......it's my own fault, Mick
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Re: Mick's Grant
Nicely done Mick.....62 years, well done. That's the equivalent of 124 Armortek builds!
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
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Re: Mick's Grant
Thank you Phil, it's not all been plain sailing however, marriage is like building models stick at it and you get there in the end, Through the good and hard times, in sickness and in health, till death us do part, or something like that. I doubt the future generations will see it that way, my sons have already married many times best wishes mate....I'm fascinated by your model building.... you must have a factory full of hard workers...Mick.
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Re: Mick's Grant
Enjoying the Women's World Cup.....would not like a smack off one of those young ladies....tough or what.
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Re: Mick's Grant
I just love and admire you methodical tidy approach to your builds, mine look like a bomb has gone off !
Mechanical engineer.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
2 Youtube channels, Phil Woollard and Magpiespyro. Facebook/ Phil Woollard.
Commission builds considered. Pm for my email.
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Re: Mick's Grant
Thank you Phil, everything in it's place and a place for everything. A tidy mind....army training....strict mom.....lack of space....you decide
Now a quickie, on a very wet Monday morning, I'm going for the extended Grant build. I have searched the knowledge base looking for plastic casting numbers. How to apply, size etc., are these the Slaters plastic sets, and is the size a rule of thumb....for example, if it looks right....
By the way...I have ordered new batteries... Mick
Now a quickie, on a very wet Monday morning, I'm going for the extended Grant build. I have searched the knowledge base looking for plastic casting numbers. How to apply, size etc., are these the Slaters plastic sets, and is the size a rule of thumb....for example, if it looks right....
By the way...I have ordered new batteries... Mick
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Re: Mick's Grant
Mick, I haven't put anything on the Knowledge Base about casting numbers and letters, perhaps I should.
A useful stock would consist of four or five packs of 2mm, a couple of 3mm and one of 5mm. You're bound to use some letters more frequently so it's wise to avoid frustration by having a reserve. The 2mm is the default (which translates into 12mm full size, which is quite large. I have used the 5mm for example on the turret casting number on the Centurion but that is exceptional. The sheets are widely available online, including direct from the manufacturer.
Applying them takes a bit of patience, you're bound to drop some into the carpet muncher. Even with good close vision, some magnification helps, such as an Optivisor or this one which I've found perfect:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnifier-Hand ... lp_pl_dp_6
A pencil line helps with alignment although you can judge it by eye very accurately. I handle the letters by cutting them loose with a craft knife (hold them down with a tooth pick or they'll fly off). You can put them in place with either a tooth pick or a sharp point (I'd avoid tweezers as they are capable of firing them across the room). You can either put each one in place and apply a bead of low viscosity superglue or better, apply the superglue first. Be prepared with a tissue to remove excess glue quickly or you'll find it pooling in the centres. If you make a mistake, you can always cut the offending character off and start again. I find some superglue accelerator helps but be sure to dry it off before the next character.
Good luck.
A useful stock would consist of four or five packs of 2mm, a couple of 3mm and one of 5mm. You're bound to use some letters more frequently so it's wise to avoid frustration by having a reserve. The 2mm is the default (which translates into 12mm full size, which is quite large. I have used the 5mm for example on the turret casting number on the Centurion but that is exceptional. The sheets are widely available online, including direct from the manufacturer.
Applying them takes a bit of patience, you're bound to drop some into the carpet muncher. Even with good close vision, some magnification helps, such as an Optivisor or this one which I've found perfect:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magnifier-Hand ... lp_pl_dp_6
A pencil line helps with alignment although you can judge it by eye very accurately. I handle the letters by cutting them loose with a craft knife (hold them down with a tooth pick or they'll fly off). You can put them in place with either a tooth pick or a sharp point (I'd avoid tweezers as they are capable of firing them across the room). You can either put each one in place and apply a bead of low viscosity superglue or better, apply the superglue first. Be prepared with a tissue to remove excess glue quickly or you'll find it pooling in the centres. If you make a mistake, you can always cut the offending character off and start again. I find some superglue accelerator helps but be sure to dry it off before the next character.
Good luck.
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Re: Mick's Grant
Brilliant, thank you for the information Stephen, just what I was looking for...Mick
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Re: Mick's Grant
I would like to say thank you to Stephen too for the lettering info. Hoping he'll be sharing more tips when our Chieftain build begins.
I'm looking forward to watching your M3 build too Michael, always a pleasant read.
I hadn't given much thought to the M3 until Stu of Stu's M3 began looking into Building an Armortek M3.
What great model it's turned out to be, not only the detail but the ease operation the user going find operating it.
I'm looking forward to watching your M3 build too Michael, always a pleasant read.
I hadn't given much thought to the M3 until Stu of Stu's M3 began looking into Building an Armortek M3.
What great model it's turned out to be, not only the detail but the ease operation the user going find operating it.
Oh Man, I only ride em I don't know what makes them work,
Definatley an Anti-Social type
Definatley an Anti-Social type