Guys, this is a question open to all including Armortek.
Is it really necessary to drill and pin the suspension arms? I guess not because it doesn't say to in the 2009 instructions...
Has anyone built the KT without doing this? Just using Loctite? Did it hold up ok?
I have found a pillar drill at work so if I really need to do this I can do this at work or get one of our Mech Engs to do it for me as they are funny about non qualified people using their gear.
Sorry if this has been answered somewhere else but its hard to find easily.
cheers
Conrad
Pinning the Suspension Arms?
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- Robert E Morey
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Re: Pinning the Suspension Arms?
Hi Conrad,
If you use a Loctite thread lock (blue 243/242) and get the axles good and tight you should be fine. I had trouble getting mine tight to my satisfaction, so I milled small parallel flats on the axles for an open end wrench. Once the flats are there you can get the axle good and snug in the swing arm which should be fine (with thread locker). Without the flats I found it hard to get the axles completely tight in the swing arms. My kit was a 2007 Tiger 1.
The pinning is an extra precaution and is not absolutely necessary, but some do it as an extra measure. One would have to tear down everything to get to a loose axle, so I understand why some do it (pin the axle) for insurance.
The newer kits appear to have a set/grub screw in the swing arm which helps in a similar manner to a pin.
This may not be the "answer" you are looking for - but is one opinion. Others can chime in based on their experience.
Bob
If you use a Loctite thread lock (blue 243/242) and get the axles good and tight you should be fine. I had trouble getting mine tight to my satisfaction, so I milled small parallel flats on the axles for an open end wrench. Once the flats are there you can get the axle good and snug in the swing arm which should be fine (with thread locker). Without the flats I found it hard to get the axles completely tight in the swing arms. My kit was a 2007 Tiger 1.
The pinning is an extra precaution and is not absolutely necessary, but some do it as an extra measure. One would have to tear down everything to get to a loose axle, so I understand why some do it (pin the axle) for insurance.
The newer kits appear to have a set/grub screw in the swing arm which helps in a similar manner to a pin.
This may not be the "answer" you are looking for - but is one opinion. Others can chime in based on their experience.
Bob
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- Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:50 pm
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Re: Pinning the Suspension Arms?
Great, thanks Bob, I appreciate your reply. I think it does answer my question, especially if you used just Loctite and its held up okay in use.
I know what you mean its quite hard to tighten them by hand as they are quite smooth (a bit of arthritis in my wrist doesn't help!). I suppose I could use mole grips to tighten them up with a vice on the arm? If it does slip I'm not worried about scratches as they wont be seen, especially after I have primed and painted them...they'll just be battle damage
cheers
Conrad
PS I am going to use: Loctite 638 High Strength Retaining Compound Metal Adhesive. The reviews make it sound just the job.
I know what you mean its quite hard to tighten them by hand as they are quite smooth (a bit of arthritis in my wrist doesn't help!). I suppose I could use mole grips to tighten them up with a vice on the arm? If it does slip I'm not worried about scratches as they wont be seen, especially after I have primed and painted them...they'll just be battle damage

cheers
Conrad
PS I am going to use: Loctite 638 High Strength Retaining Compound Metal Adhesive. The reviews make it sound just the job.
- Robert E Morey
- Posts: 2355
- Joined: Wed Jul 18, 2007 12:59 am
- Location: Seattle, WA USA
- Has liked: 163 times
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Re: Pinning the Suspension Arms?
Per their literature: Loctite 638 is a maximum strength retaining compound for use where high dynamic force or cyclic loading is expected.
Should work fine for what we are doing with our models. It will be more permanent than 243 (blue) or red. A little heat from a torch or solder iron will soften It if need be.
I use it for retaining bearings in hubs etc.
Best regards,
Bob
Should work fine for what we are doing with our models. It will be more permanent than 243 (blue) or red. A little heat from a torch or solder iron will soften It if need be.
I use it for retaining bearings in hubs etc.
Best regards,
Bob