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Hi all
Do you think this is recoverable!!!
And how,are spares are available.
Regards Andy Q

Wow, that's nearly as bad as my prototype Sherman purchase

It's amazing how much can be cleaned off, but you'll need to speak to Monique about the spares situation, as the 222 production dates from July 2006 and there hasn't been a rerun since.

Adrian.

strip it down and blast everything, no doubt its rebuildable, have you any more pictures of the bodywork it will be interesting to see what its like.

The 222 is one of the kits I'd love to build.

I bet that is restorable.... May take some TLC and some fabrication. But, hey, restoring old kits now seems worthy, since all the Armortek kits are so iconic.

Bring it back to life and please post lots of pictures as you do! Great project!

Cheers,

RPR

interesting find, whats the story behind the 222, never seen one that bad, regards simon manning.

More photos update tomorrow when (i hope) i get it.
Regards Andy Q

Adrian Harris wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 05, 2018 9:28 pm

Wow, that's nearly as bad as my prototype Sherman purchase

Your W - H - A - T ?

It got left sitting on the hill outside the factory at Dunkeswell as a range target, so I made them an offer for it...

It wasn't anywhere near as bad as that 222 though - it looks like the turret has rusted completely though

Adrian.

Awesome project... If you don't want it... I do!

Cheers,

RPR

Hi All
Its now Mine.
How do you deal with the years of rusting in some owns garden on the nuts and bolts.
Lots of WD40 and then leave it for a few weeks , Heat what would you do.
Regards Andy Q

Also has any body got a copy of the build instruction they can copy and post at my cost (PayPal best for me) or scan and pdf to me.
Regards Andy Quirot

For Rust removal...

Scotchbrite.... Naval Jelly.... if you can access a bead blast cabinet... be wary on sheetmetal as the beads under pressure can work-harden the sheet metal and can warp sheetmetal. But on large machined or cast parts, it can be helpful. You can try on sheetmetal by lowering pressure and spraying the bead at an oblique angle, not direct onto the part. But use caution on sheetmetal!

Replace the fasteners. You can just buy new for cheaper than trying to repair rusty miniature fasteners. Bulk fasteners are cheap and much more fun to work with than... rusty ones1 Also saves you time in the dismantling as you can simply break off or grind off bad fasteners with a dremel and move on. No point spending 10 minutes... to save a 5 cent fastener... that is rusty anyway.

You might also try an electrolysis setup, which I am told works great on small parts. See YouTube for videos. I've not tried this. But it appears to work well. Make sure that any acids are neutralized off later with baking soda, windex, fresh hot soapy water... etc.

Last, tumblers (like for polishing rocks) can work great, too. New tumblers that work with stainless steel pins are really brilliant on small parts and aluminum. The stainless pins do a fantastic job.

As for the instructions... I would be surprised if you couldn't get the folks at Armortek to print you up a set? Their customer service is second-to-none!

Cheers and congrats on a great... barn find? The restoration thread is going to be as much fun as a build thread!!!

RPR

Hi Andy,

If Armortek can't find them, I can scan my 222 manuals for you (including the motion pack manual).

Thank you for your kind offer Maarten.
I have sent a request to Armortek. And if any body has any parts out there i would be interested.
Regards Andy Q

Try some WD40 on the fasteners, best to leave it a day between coats give it time to penetrate, before undoing the bolts it will be wise to crack the treads this is done by hitting the head of the bolt either with some spare bar or an Allen socket be careful when unscrewing steel bolts in alloy as they may pick up the treads and stripping them in the process best to make a half turn each way until the screw is finger loose.