Some Detail Photos -- Ghost Engine

[Robert Reid]

In the next few weeks, we're putting a Ghost engine together at the shop. Much of the machine work is done and we're going to be painting and assembling.

For those contemplating the Ghost Motor kit, I'll post some detail pictures of 'the real thing' as we put it together. This may help folks with fit and finish and detail ideas.

Here is the crankcase with the blocks temporarily mounted and ready to line-bore the bearings. Blocks are mounted so that any changes in shape to the crankcase caused by their being bolted in place will be taken into account when the boring is done.



Feel free to ask questions or request pictures or views as you get going on your assemblies. Glad to try and help!

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

I promised some more pictures to some folks getting ready to start their builds (shipping any day, I hear!)

Here are some more Ghost engine pictures in various states of original and/or under restoration.



Block unpainted but getting ready for pressure test to make sure it's not leaking before we paint. The diameter of the brass core plugs is 1 1/16" across the flats. That gives some idea for folks who want to replicate the core plugs on the blocks. Top covers held on with 1/4 BSF nuts on studs.



Birdseye view of crankcase with crank fitted and with tappets and gears in place.



Clutch and flywheel showing the clutch brake ring (the black-painted ring) and the cone clutch inside the cast-iron flywheel. This flywheel was badly pitted, so we opted to give it a light coat of cast-iron paint on some filler. Normally, these would be unpainted cast-iron grey and oil mist coming from engine and clutch would keep it from rusting. In this, the collector era, cars get less use... more cleaning. So flywheels can rust... a bit of paint does not hurt.



Left side of the engine. This shows the tappet levers and tappets. Both held on with 1/4BSF nuts on studs. Also note Magneto mount.



This is just a cool picture of the timing gears. No chain in a Ghost. Too noisy! So this is the wheelcase and the bevel gears. On the original cars, they were fitted then lapped together with a mixture of warm oil and rouge paste... until dead silent. On the real deal, don't mess up those gears on the pain of owning a whiny Ghost!



Right side of engine showing oil filler and the linkages starting to come together. Far more linkage than you can imagine. All the main engine functions are manually-controlled. No vacuum... anything. Though the advance is controlled by flyball governor. Again, that's under the skin of an Armortek kit.



Ghost engine. Largely unrestored in engine bay. Right side. Carb side.



Same car. Tappet side. Note that the magneto is disconnected and 'out of line' as we have removed the cam follower arms and tappets for restoration. But this shows a decent close-up.

More over the next few days.

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

For those like me who thinking about going a bit crazy with using nuts and bolts (BA size) in place of rivets or cap screws, here are some corresponding sizes to go from the Rolls-Royce BSF bolt sizes to BA. This is the closest there is in 1/6th scale.

1/4 BSF = either 13 or 14 BA. 14 BA is closest.
5/16th BSF = almost perfectly 12 BA.
3/8th BSF = either 10 or 11 BA. 10 BA is about 4 thousandths bigger. 11 BA is about 3 thosandths smaller.
7/16ths BSF = 9BA
1/2 BSF = 8 BA

I notice that they did a great job on the nuts holding the cover plates on the engine blocks!

If you are trying to reproduce the brass core plugs on the engine, 3/16th brass hex would get you the right plug size.

Once I get the kit in and start working on it, I can add some more detail thoughts. Can't wait!

BTW, this table is a great resource for knowing the standard sizes and drill sizes.

http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/faq.html

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

A few more pictures as a line-bored engine gets final assembled.



Engine showing wheelcase (timing gears) and block top.



Side view with some of the linkage mocked up before it gets chemical blackened/phosphate coated.



Other side of the engine showing tappet covers, tappets, lever covers, etc.

More coming.... We also have a chassis currently in paint. And when I get that onto the assembly floor, we'll be posting detailed pictures of that.

Note that the crankcase is NOT polished. It is a burnished sand casting. The casting marks were not polished out. So the crankcase, though shiny, is rough. Not smooth. Not engine-turned or scraped, either. I will replicate the finish on mine using some peening... More on that in a later installment.

Also, the bulkhead (firewall in 'Merika-speak) is polished aluminum, not painted. It was one of the few high-polish items on the car.

If anyone wants special detailed photos posted... just ask. We are currently assembling an Alpine Eagle chassis (1914 pattern) and will gladly post any details anyone wants to see.

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

One more image for tonite...



Fitting pistons to blocks... mainly to show detail of underside of blocks. As a matter of arcane knowledge... RR used a Piston-Guided Rod... it was not guided on the crankshaft. So the piston/rod must be centered on its crankshaft pin... using the cheeks of the piston. This is done with careful machining of the inside of the piston to locate the rod correctly on the crankshaft.

I'll post an 'unpainted' chassis picture over the weekend.

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

Engine detail with the valves installed. Both blocks now in place. Note the tappet side covers.



Harmonic balancer installed (behind front timing cover) and front of block showing fan mounting points. Note the brass core plugs in numerous positions all over the blocks. These are not freeze plugs, but are threaded brass plugs. They are there to fill the holes through which the sand castings cores were removed (after being broken up) during initial manufacture and prior to machining. It is not unusual to find small bits of support wire sticking out of the cast iron... remnants of the original casting.

Note the crankcase is neither polished, nor painted. But is burnished rough sand casting.

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

While at it... here are some details of engine and the chassis ready for paint...

It's kind of like an Armortek, only bigger!




Note how the axle is 'stitched' together with dozens of small bolts. Massive bit of unsprung weight!



Chassis ready for final priming and paint. Note the 'filler' on the dumbirons. On a passenger car, it was the one area of the chassis where close attention was paid to finish, since this was a very visible area. So this section of the chassis gets filled and smoothed. On the originals, this would have been layer-upon-layer of nitrocellulose lacquer, brushed on and then sanded smooth.

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

A few more as we get an engine ready to go into the chassis...



Front cover (and sump) on and distributor tower loosely-fitted. Next comes the water side rails and water pump... pictures of those in a couple of days.



I think I've posted a picture of flywheel and clutch previously. This also has the throwout bearing hanging loosely, waiting for the taper pin that holds on the front of the Carden shaft that couples clutch to transmission.



The sump and front cover in place as well as the drive dog (for the starting-handle) and the fan pulley. This was originally bare metal, but we paint with a light coat of cast-iron grey to keep it from rusting. This shows some of the shape/contours of the sump. Note the orientation of the bolts/nuts. RR practice was usually to have nuts pointing at back, but on the timing cover, the nuts face forward to match the studs that protrude from the crankcase, holding the upper half of the cover.



Another view of the sump. Note the oil fill level in the center. Instead of a dipstick, it had a valve. Open the valve and if oil comes out... you have enough. If no oil comes out... add oil! It's a small detail that would work well in a detail update kit



Probably more detail than anyone needs... but square headed 5/16th BSF bolt. Flat washer on each end (against the aluminum). A grooved "Thackery Washer" that is original style. And a 'full nut' which is the thickest of the three standard nuts (Half-nut, regular nut, full-nut.) Practice was to have about 2 threads protruding from the nut. It is very unusual for us to assemble an engine with the original grooved Thackery washers... they are mostly rotted away. This car came with a goodly supply of serviceable original style washers! Being an Alpine Eagle chassis... definitely worth using the right stuff. Note, too, that the hardware is phosphate-blacked...

More coming as I will expand this thread to include chassis details in the weeks ahead. And more engine details in the next few days!

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

Been a month since I posted any pictures... been busy on putting the Alpine Eagle together, though! Here's some detailed chassis (and a few engine) pictures. More next week!

Engine with the distributor in place and with most of the water and oil pipes fitted.



Chassis rails just finished painting. This is a 'modern standards' paint job and the color will match the final coachwork. Normally, this would have been assembled 'in the white' and would be supplied in primer. The coachmaker would paint the final color on areas visible to the customer. Areas left unpainted included engine, transmission, bulkhead (firewall), steering column, etc. You'll see more on what is 'natural' later.



Rails moved, a few days later into assembly bay. Things start happening fast now!



Front springs fitted with their leather gaiters stitched on 'on a bench.' Much easier than doing it upside-down on a chassis! Front axle fitted with shackles. Axle was pre-assembled last fall and painted as a unit.



Transmission fitted and sphere in place. Sphere is a bronze casting with a steel sphere inside. It carries the entire stress of the axle, which only rests on the rear springs and is, technically, not secured! Note the hangers for the starter and dynamo. No starter on the pre-war cars. It was a later add-on. Armored cars did, however, fit an auxiliary starter in the cabin. And often a Ghost will start "on the switch" which means that a quick flip of the ignition advance from early to late... will cause the magneto to emit one, single spark. Often enough to start the engine running!



Rear Axle perched on its springs with torque tube attached to the sphere. Note concentric brake shoes on the rear axle. Inner is the 'hand' brake and outer is the foot brake. Both were intended to be used while driving. The hand brake had a 30" lever.... a lot of force on the rear drums if you wanted to stop fast! Well, as fast as 2 wheel brakes with tiny rubber contact patches allow...



Another view of the chassis after installation of the rear axle.



Front shock absorbers fitted (friction shocks) and pedal shafts in place. Starting to put some of the small parts on the chassis.



Fuel tank fitted, but not yet plumbed.




A few more coming in the next post. As we get the engine in and start adding pieces to the drivetrain.

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

Last few until next week... or maybe later this week. Tomorrow is what you folks call "Ungrateful Colonists Day", but is our July 4th. So interrupted week. Would normally let me do some modeling, but farm work beckons.

Engine finally in and front wheels resting on hubs. Much of the engine was pre-assembled on a stand, then partly dismantled to sling into the chassis. The ensures everything fits... but won't get damaged during installation.



Fan, bulkhead and upper water rail installed, but water rail not polished.. Pedal shafts final fitted and hooked up to clutch.



Engine manifolds temporarily fitted while we get ready to fit the exhaust system. Exhaust system is very complicated... and typically takes about 40 hours to fit 'right. Failure to fit right and you can (will) stress the manifolds and break them. A pair of manifolds is about the price of a nice Armortek kit. Breaking one is a bad thing!



Magneto and shaft. The silver 'drum' is the Magneto brake, a post-war addition designed to always keep drag on the gear train. Otherwise, the magneto, on over-run, had enough rotational mass to turn and create a 'clunk' in the gear train. By adding a bit of drag, the magneto is always in its correct thrust relationship with the drivegears in the wheelcase... silence is the result. It was all about silence and smoothness!



That's what I've got for now! Anyone who has special requests for images, shots or photos, post here and I'll get it done for you.


Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

My friend Jim's account of the restoration you see above.

Jim flew, drove, train'd.... everything but Tabbed... from Washington, D.C. to VT every few weeks for the last 3 years in order to do as much personal, hands-on restoration as possible in our workshops. His work is in virtually every component of this project and, in the process, he has learned about his car at a PhD level!

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/resurrec ... -stejskal/

If I am allowed to put in a shameless plug here, Jim will be speaking at the National Portrait Gallery in London c. Sept. 20. I'll be there, either to act as an usher or just run his slides. I've been to his talks before.... they are well worth the time!

Here's his new book on Lawrence and the Armoured cars if you want to read it (or bring a copy to get signed!

https://www.amazon.com/Masters-Mayhem-L ... 1612005748

Pardon the shameless plugging. Jim is a brother and I want his new book to do great!

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

A few more pictures.

Radiator just arrived back from Re-Coring and will go on next week or so. Working now on linkages, wiring and piping.



Looking forward to winter so I can get going on my engine/chassis/armoured car! these 1:1 models are exhausting!

Cheers,

RPR

[Robert Reid]

A couple of beauty shots.

Note that the quadrant on the steering wheel is not in place.



Note the coil as well. This is one of two possible coils that were in use in WW1 and in the immediate post-war years. There was also a horizontal coil. The coil on the Armoured car at Bovington is actually incorrect. The correct coil should be a short-mushroom-cap with a square base on it. The coil on the Armortek kit is very good!

In some of the pictures of armoured cars, including the "Haynes Manual" which is a wonderful book... there are pictures of a Magneto mounted inside the cab, off to the left. It drove me buggy trying to figure out what that was doing there... because a magneto is an ignition spark-generator. Like a coil and distributor. So it doesn't 'work' unless it's connected to the engine and timed. On a Ghost, the engines run on dual ignition. There is a magneto ignition, which runs on a shaft on the left side of the engine. And there is a coil ignition. Which is part of the distributor tower on the right side of the engine. Both work simultaneously and are designed to run together. Early dual-plug-per-cylinder gave better ignition, more power and more reliability. The magneto, however, did not have an advance. So it tended to get set a few degrees ahead of the coil ignition.

So the purpose if this 'inside' mounted magneto did not make sense. Until I realized that it was a supplement to the 'other' method of starting a Ghost. Which is called "Starting on the switch." This process is used on a car that is typically warm and has a full 'fuel charge' in a cylinder. When you shut off the engine, you fully advance the magneto lever and as the engine shuts down, you fully open the throttle, letting the cylinders pull in a charge of very rich fuel/air mixture. Then you can 'start on the switch' by turning on the ignition and rapidly pulling down on the Early/Late (Advance/Retard) lever. This will cause the magneto advance to move the points and will create 1... Just one... spark. In one cylinder. And in a Ghost engine, this is often enough to start the engine running. Works in about 80 percent of Ghosts... not all will do it. And the engine has to be in perfect tune for it to work. But it does work.

The magneto mounted inside the car... is likely an auxiliary to the idea of "starting on the switch." If it's connected to a third set of plugs (Ghost blocks have provision for THREE spark plugs per cylinder... one over the piston and two over the valves... then this could be used as sort of an early electric starter! By cranking on the magneto with a warm engine and a full fuel charge... one or more of the cylinders was sure to fire and that would be enough to get the engine firing on the coil/driven magneto.

By the end of the war, RR was fitting electric starters. But for the armoured cars, you either started from inside with a crank... got outside to start it. Or started it on the switch.

I his book Steel Chariots in the Desert, Sam Rolls (no relation to the founder) does reference 'starting on the switch.' But never mentions an inside magneto. So my theory here is just that. Maybe someone can confirm that is the use of the 'inside' magneto in the old photographs.

Cheers,

does

[Robert Reid]

Last one for today.



Quartering view.

If any of you guys have special requests for angles or details, let me know. I have 4 Ghosts in the shop right now... two of them bare chassis with no bodies. There is no time like the present if you want detail photos for your builds! Just ask!

Cheers,

RPR

[Armortek]

Hi Robert

Fabulous pictures and a great story. I would have loved to have had these detailed images when I was designing this kit. These pictures ought to be put together as reference book. There is certainly nothing else out there that comes close.

Mark