As promised here comes my update on the system and what I've done so far:
I’ll try to explain more in detail what I have done on my King Tiger to achieve that “shot effect”
The model is a 2013 Kingtiger No.18 with the option packs from 2014.
The main components I used are :
1.) Luftpumpe DAYPOWER LP27-24, 24 V, 1,5 Liter per minute - Pollin electronics
2.) DC/DC Converter Kemo - Pollin electronics
3.) Lego technic 4,0mm pneumatic tube black, – found 2 meters in the bay, you need roughly 700mm in total
4.) The pump bracket – found at my cycle shop
5.) The connectors and housing – Conrad electronic
6.) The 2ml syringe – sponsored by my village pharmacy
7.) Some shrinkable tube –
8.) 3,25mm brass tube 300mm long
9.) And the star – the one way e-cigarette cross menthol – found at my local gas station
To install my system I had to machine a bit.
The barrel has been drilled out at the front by diameter 18,00mm and roughly 140,00mm deep.
The muzzlebreak has been on the lathe to drill it out from the backside by diameter 18,00mm and about 35,00 mm deep only. I wanted to see from the front at maximum the LED’s, not more in the muzzle break .
To hollow out the barrel front-end and muzzle-break is required to have enough room for the LED loom and the e-Cigarette with its Syringe-adapter .
I had the idea with the rubber tube and the syringe adapter since you can easy pull out the very flexible tube to exchange or replace a new e-cigarette. Just unscrew the muzzle break, pull the cigarette slightly out of the barrel and put a new one into the adapter
A small piece of shrinkable tube is fine to seal the cig in the syringe.
The adapter is made of the syringe cut at the 2ml mark, deburred it and removed sharp edges.
The final position of the cig should be above the LED loom and centered which I achieved by a small rubber from my daughters hair braid
Correct aligned in the barrel you will see only the LEDs, not more and the smoke will be equally blown out through the muzzle break.( left, right and front)
The very flexible behavior of the pneumatic tube is a big disadvantage when it comes to tight alignments around a corner. So I used the brass-tube to bring the airflow to the inside of the turret.
The cigarette is a “lazy man’s solution” since the sensor to start the heating element is included, and is also working nicely when you blow in the cig from the opposite side to push out the smoke. A very cool and easy “all inclusive package”, and with 8,0 mm diameter small enough to fit in the barrel
No extra channel required for the control and can be found at every gas station for 3,- Euros
I’m still fiddeling around with the different sorts of muzzle breaks, three piece, original, original modified vs hollowed out and some other pumps to see any difference in the effect.
The video shows the effect with a setup of the 24 Volt pump reduced to 15 Volts and
the 3 piece Muzzlebreak made by Armortek .
The turret loom from 2014 provides you with two switched 24 Volt connections, one for the elevation and the other for the older blank-firer option pack.
I have used the second connector (yellow/white) of the loom which is according to the Armortek Instructions on channel 5 to feed via the DC/DC Converter my air pump.
This allows fine tuning of the airflow and smoke effect
I control the sounds with a 3 pos switch L on the right hand side module, and switch K to start the airpump. It’s a bit of training to find the right timing but not really a big trick
For older models, e.g. my example with the Porsche turret, the barrels have a much bigger inner diameter so space enough for the LED and smoke units.
I hope this was a bit of help for those who want to try it as well
Cheers,
Uwe
but the next days I'll try to make a more detailed description of what I've done.