Armortek

Dear Colleagues

Has any one else had trouble fitting the front Axel pins to the drive shaft?

This pin got well and truly stuck even after filing and sanding the hole a little, and it wouldn't budge, I will now attempt the longer drive shaft but this time file some more meat away I guess.

Steve

Hi Steve,

I had a slight issue on the front axle where the shafts seemed too long, however I found that the ball ends were very slightly too big for the cups. So I would suggest that before the pins are fitted check that the shaft ends fit the full depth of the cups.

With regards the pins for the front half shafts, I ground the pins very very slightly shorter so that when they are fitted in the ball ends they could still fit through the axle shaft. This then allowed me to fit the pins in the balls before feeding them through the axle casing.

To fit the pins I used a bench vice to squeeze the pin in, and when it was flush with one end I taped a 3mm nut to the face of the vice which allowed me to squeeze the pin further to the point where the ends protrude equally.

I hope this makes sense.

Regards

Dave

Hi Dave
Thank for responding and the great advice.
I have fitted the longer shaft and after some careful filing the pins fit perfectly.
I also had to reduce the size of the ball ends so that they would fit the cups.

I've emailed Armourtek but there on leave until the beginning of August.
I ironically I bumped into Mark today at the War & Peace show in Kent. He says they have spares in stock so a replacement should take too long to arrive.

There is plenty to be getting on with until it does.

Kind Regards
Steve.

Hi Steve,

Pleased I could help. I'm just waiting for the weather to improve so that I can prime the chassis. When painting the chassis I am also considering what I can leave assembled and what needs to be painted separately.

Regards

Dave

Hi guys,

I am working on my front axle too atm..

I have been tweaking the shafts and cups but still not happy with the result. From what I can work out the springs are very nearly completely compressed and only allows very minimal movement. My next thought is to use an endmill and slightly deepen the cups in the diff centre. Or a shorter sprint.

See photo.

Cheers

Sean

The official advice from Mark is "Your models are best built without the springs being fitted. This seems to work well."

Full details in Ken Walter's thread.

Adrian.

Hi Adrian

Thanks

I must have missed that post

Cheers sean

PS here is my C8