R607FS RECEIVER

[Peter Silcock]

Really special! I wonder how many models got completed from scratch using those plans? I have one of the original folders but couldn't even contemplate building the model from it.

[Graham Ord]

Hi All
Assuming I fit a 617 receiver to replace the burnt out 607.
From the sound module all the wires go to the receiver (green,red,blue) one lot via the recoil module and one green wire to the recoil module alone.

From the receiver two lots go to the Electrowise type 48-2w. (red,white,black)

One lot comes in from the BEC (red,brown) the only one set and plug not damaged.

What I cannot work out is which wire goes to what pin/plug and if any are bridged. (All the red dots)

Graham

[Peter Silcock]

Graham if you mean whether wires on individual plugs are bridged then definitely not as far as I know. You seem to still be using the Electronize switching unit and this might be the original cause of your problem. The terminals are very tiny and stray wires can easily cause a short. Before you connect the unit up take the cover off and closely examine the terminals and underneath the circuit board - I would be very surprised if the board has not blown. If you are using it for turret rotation or elevation I would be replacing with speed controllers- obviously up to you. As far as allocating the plugs to the right channels in the receiver you obviously want the tracks on channels 2 and 3 and the rest allocated to your individual preference. You will do no harm (as long as you have identified the original faulty component) by simply plugging in each of the leads and testing with the transmitter until you get the right channel. I would be tempted in the circumstances to plug one in at a time get it right mark it and then unplug and do the next one just in case the fault happens again- but I am a bit cautious about elektrickery. Also get the Bec circuit fused if it isn't already.

[Peter Silcock]

Sorry Graham being a bit slow there - when you mentioned bridged you may mean plugging 2 plugs into the same channel on the receiver. Don't think you will need to unless you are using all 7 channels and need to have a Y lead into channel 7 which is also the battery connection on the 617. Channels 1 and 4 on the Futaba are usually used for turret turn and gun elevation.

[Graham Ord]

Hi Peter and all
I need to know what colour wire goes to what pin?

What also worries me is can the connectors be put in both ways which will swap the wires round.

I have ordered some Futaba connectors,I hope they are easy to put the wires on.

My definition of bridging is a separate wire between two different terminals on the receiver.

I have also ordered a 617 receiver.

Wish me luck
Graham

[Adrian Harris]

See this link:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... 880#p51879

Red in the middle and green and blue on the outsides. Then plug in with the greens to the outside of the receiver and blues to the inside of the receiver.

The red on the BEC should line up with the other reds and the brown from the BEC should line up with the greens.

Adrian.

[Graham Ord]

Thanks Adrian
I followed your link, its reassuring to know that it is hard to blow anything up.

Thanks all of you
Graham

[Graham Ord]

Hi All
Back again
The BEC wires are one red,one brown.
I do not have a record/photo to show where the wires go.
I presume its red to the center terminal and brown to the outer edge of the receiver? or the edge next to the electronics?
I know its terminal marked 7/8

Graham

[Adrian Harris]

JR/Spektrum servos use orange for signal, red for power and brown for ground.

Assuming the BEC uses these same colours, the brown goes on the pin against the outer edge of the receiver and the red goes on the middle pin.

What model of BEC are you using ?

Adrian.

[Graham Ord]

Hi Adrian
Its a Hobbywing UBEC 3A MAX 5A 2-6S LIPO

Graham

[Graham Ord]

Hi All
Ref the attached photos,
This is the sound module.
Does the red light indicate power on or fault?
Connections are as follows from right to left (ignore red terminals)
1. to input1 on DMR203
2. to terminal 3 on receiver
3. to input2 on DMR203
4. to terminal 1 on receiver
5. to recoil module and on to terminal 4 on receiver
6. Blank
7. green only to recoil module
I think I connected them as they were, but:-
L/H stick operates L/H track forward and reverse
R/H stick operates turret rotation but only one way when pushed forward and back

Swap the two black plugs 1 and 3
Now the L/H stick operates the operates the R/H track forward and reverse
R/H stick operates turret rotation but only one way when pushed forward and back

No sound, no recoil at all in any combination
Not tested smoker

Any suggestions
Graham

[Adrian Harris]

I don't think it will make any difference but the instructions say to put the connections from the receiver on 1 and 3 and the connections to the motor controllers - the DMR203 in your case, on 2 and 4.

Are you expecting the R/H stick to operate the R/H track ?

If that is the case, then you have the connections at the receiver mixed up.

If you are not sure, I would unplug all the connections on the receiver, then use a standard servo and try each channel in turn so that you can write down which control on the transmitter affects which channel on the receiver. Once you have that, you can work out which channels on the receiver need to go to the two inputs on the Amplifier Module in order to make the tracks work, and which of the other receiver connections need to go to the turret controls etc.

For instance, if you find they work out as below:

L/H stick forward/back is channel_1
L/H stick left/right is channel_2
R/H stick forward/back is channel_3
R/H stick left/right is channel_4

you would plug channel_1 into connection1 and channel_3 into connection3 on the Amplifier Module.

Adrian.

[Peter Silcock]

Just to clarify on the Futaba right stick left and right is channel 1 and up and down is channel 2. Left stick up and down is channel 3 and left and right is channel 4.Graham having reread your post you have the right hand track plugged into channel 1 and it should be plugged into channel 2. (left hand track to channel3) If you are operating the sound from the left hand stick this should be plugged into channel 4- if that's the case channel 2 will operate the turret turn. Elevation plugged into another channel.

[Mark Heaps]

I would suggest a slightly different approach.

How you have your Transmitter set up will affect how the Receiver responds
First of all decide if you want one-stick or two-stick control and set your transmitter to that using the info that can be found on this forum. That is then your base-line should you then in future have to replace any part.
Connect the channels for the track drive motors to the receiver as recommended and see what happens. If it does not work as expected, investigate.
Then connect the channel for turret rotation, investigate and repair as neccessary.
Connect channel for gun elevation, investigate and repair as neccessary.

Two very kind Armortek owners, Peter Quambusch & Norbert (?)( still don´t know his surname)on our first meeting allowed me to drive the KT (set to two-stick) & StuGIII (set to one-stick). After this direct comparison between the two, I decided my KT would have one-stick control and set up my transmitter as per the info on this forum. As a bench-test then connected up all modules and motors as recommended and no problems experienced.

[Graham Ord]

Hi
It used to be R/H stick R/H track.
L/H stick L/H track.

R/H stick sideways turret rotation clockwise and anti clockwise.

L/H stick sideways select sound dependent on number of movements to get, engine sounds ,main gun recoil and flash bang, various m/c guns etc.

Small switch on front of transmitter, gun elevation.

An independent switch on tank for exhaust smoke burner. (still working)

The fan was controlled by speed of track.

Graham
PS what about the red light in the sound module?
BUT WILL TRY YOUR SUGGESTION, THANK YOU