I don't know why, given as I've never riveted before, but I had it in my head that I would just need to insert the rivet, align the two snaps and apply a couple of blows with the hammer to achieve two perfectly rounded over ends.
Reality seems to be a little different
It seems very easy for the snap to move sideways, so rather than form an end, the rivet just bends over like a nail. Also, it is forming a stubby end, rather than filling out the domed shape of the snap.
Has anyone tried annealing the copper rivets before installing them
I've tried it on a small batch and it doesn't seem to have made any difference. I don't know whether the amount of hammering required brings on the work hardening so as to negate any benefit from annealing.
I also tried heating the rivet whilst it was in the part, but this caused the part itself to bow, so that's definitely not going to work.
I may have a play with the resistance soldering machine, as that would be ideal for heating the rivet in situ without affecting the part. It should also be possible to heat rivets once the beast starts to come together.
Adrian
Riveting Stuff...
- Adrian Harris
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Re: Riveting Stuff...
Adrian
Copper rivets are supplied in the annealed condition and should be cold worked. Heating causes cracks and its likely that the head will fall off. After inserting the rivet should be trim with side cutters so that the shank protrudes through about 1.25 times the diameter. In practical terms this means about 4mm for the Mk4 rivets.
Practice makes perfect
Hopes this helps
Mark
Copper rivets are supplied in the annealed condition and should be cold worked. Heating causes cracks and its likely that the head will fall off. After inserting the rivet should be trim with side cutters so that the shank protrudes through about 1.25 times the diameter. In practical terms this means about 4mm for the Mk4 rivets.
Practice makes perfect
Hopes this helps
Mark
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Re: Riveting Stuff...
Hi Adrian,
I can maybe help you with the rivets. Do you have imperial snaps ie. 3/32". If so they have a different profile than the metric rivets. I guess you are building a 251 as am I. Here is what I do.
I do not cut the rivets down. Fasten one of the snaps upright in a vice push a rivet into the holes in the plates then place the rivet head in the snap. Take either a small ball pein or cross pein hammer and lightly start to hammer the rivet as if to partly head the rivet. Once you have got the rivet about halfway headed, take the upper snap and complete the rivetting. With a bit of practise it gets quick and easy.
Good luck.
Kevin.
I can maybe help you with the rivets. Do you have imperial snaps ie. 3/32". If so they have a different profile than the metric rivets. I guess you are building a 251 as am I. Here is what I do.
I do not cut the rivets down. Fasten one of the snaps upright in a vice push a rivet into the holes in the plates then place the rivet head in the snap. Take either a small ball pein or cross pein hammer and lightly start to hammer the rivet as if to partly head the rivet. Once you have got the rivet about halfway headed, take the upper snap and complete the rivetting. With a bit of practise it gets quick and easy.
Good luck.
Kevin.
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Re: Riveting Stuff...
Hello,
there is a formula for the correct length of rivets. I used it for the brass rivets on
my SWS and it goes well. I made a tool with a concave end and struck the head cold.
The tool should be kept straight and you need a concave holder for the other side.
length of rivet shaft = thickness of the metal sheets + 1,5 * thickness of rivet shaft
there is a formula for the correct length of rivets. I used it for the brass rivets on
my SWS and it goes well. I made a tool with a concave end and struck the head cold.
The tool should be kept straight and you need a concave holder for the other side.
length of rivet shaft = thickness of the metal sheets + 1,5 * thickness of rivet shaft
Have fun building, Kind regards
Christian
Christian