Sdkfz 251 Build

Eric Ho · Post by **Eric Ho** » Mon Dec 21, 2015 6:33 am

Tom, the reason I enlarged the radius on the bearing seats, rather than filing down the stems was because the parts fit together with no gap without the differential inside (Try this and see?).

So filing down the stems wouldn't really solve the problem in my case, and I couldn't reduce the bearing size, so the bearing seats got the rework. Hope this helps.

Post by **Armortek** » Mon Dec 21, 2015 9:06 am

Guys

You dont need to file down or re-work anything. Just make sure that you have removed all the sharp edges and that everything is clean before assembly. A small gap tells you that the bearings are fully secured.

Mark

Stephen White · Post by **Stephen White** » Mon Dec 21, 2015 10:26 am

Strangely, the humblest of tools are often the most effective.

No self-respecting engineering apprentice would have been without a set of engineer's hand scrapers. They cost very little but are essential for removing burrs, sharp edges and any irregularities in surfaces. They are simple to use, effective and cheap. An example:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16127606 ... ue&ff13=80

The fits of Armortek parts as designed are very precise on tolerance and as manufactured are very accurate. Scrapers provide a finish to the parts removing any manufacturing witness marks and allowing a perfect fit. It's generally the case that if an Armortek part appears not to fit, it's either been fitted incorrectly, or it's not been cleaned up mechanically. It's highly unlikely to be a manufacturing or design issue.

Regards

Stephen

Dennis Jones · Post by **Dennis Jones** » Mon Dec 21, 2015 11:02 am

Didn't have any problems with mine.

Dennis.

Tom Wittstock · Post by **Tom Wittstock** » Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:28 am

Stephen White · Post by **Stephen White** » Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:08 am

Mr Wittstock

I, and every other Armortek customer I've ever spoken to, believe Gill and Mark provide an outstanding support service, way beyond what one could reasonably expect. Nothing is ever too much trouble. Unless, that is, a request for guidance is couched in a negative, sarcastic tone on a public forum, when it would be much more appropriate for an individual struggling to interpret a perfectly sound engineering drawing to seek advice via the privacy of an email.

I'm sure you'll understand that Armortek would rightly feel sensitive to any implication that there was a systematic fault, unless of course it was justified. In this case, it plainly isn't.

Armortek has always been very responsive to and grateful for constructive comment. The Tech Pubs have been dramatically improved over the years but they do presume a level of common sense.

Armortek take the trouble to provide packaging which clearly identifies parts by part number and description, which can then be related to the packing list and instructions. It is therefore very difficult to see where your problem lies.

I'm sure Gill and Mark would respond positively to a request for help on an email.

Happy Holiday

Stephen

Detlef Giessmann · Post by **Detlef Giessmann** » Tue Dec 22, 2015 10:36 am

Mr Wittstock,

read my assessment to armortek.

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... 4&start=15
Post: Tue Dec 22, 2015 9:45 am

It just fits very well.
The sound produces the music!

Best regards,
D.Giessmann

Chris Hall · Post by **Chris Hall** » Tue Dec 22, 2015 12:28 pm

+1 to Stephen's comments.

Less than a year ago I was an Armortek newbie, faced with 4 large boxes and a book of engineering drawings. A career in Accountancy doesn't help much .....

but, by following the instructions carefully and logically (some parts took me 3-4 attempts before I got them the right way round), and seeking advice from Mark, Gill, and other Forum members, I produced a model that I'm very, very proud of, and I'm about to start a second one.

Yes, there was something where I disagreed with Mark (an historical, rather than technical, aspect). But I emailed him privately, got his opinion, and made the change in the certain knowledge that it wouldn't have a detrimental effect 'down the line'. All in order to improve an already excellent product, and without any blood spilt or feelings hurt (I sincerely hope). And then Gill (bless her !) sent me some extra bits when I needed them.

As Stephen says, there are ways of raising a difference, and sounding off in public is probably about Stage 12. This is an amazingly supportive community, but it cuts both ways, and 'playing the game' pays immense dividends.

I'm sure I've heard a quote from some Wise Man who said "when asked I am malleable, when told I am intractable".

All the best, and Merry Christmas to all,

Chris

Tom Wittstock · Post by **Tom Wittstock** » Tue Dec 22, 2015 3:28 pm

Sorry it will not happen again!

Tom

Tim Semas · Post by **Tim Semas** » Thu Dec 24, 2015 2:51 am

I had no problem with mine going together, although there are some burrs inside the housing that have to be removed or they may wind up in your gear teeth. I put thin layer of silicone around mine, i have it full of grease. That way when in time the grease breaks down, it won't leak out. Those gears all work well togehter, my 039 is now running.

Eric Ho · Post by **Eric Ho** » Thu Dec 24, 2015 11:36 pm

On mine, I had already done extensive deburring, cleaned the edges, etc. The parts fit fine without the differential inside. When checking the bearing seats after deburring, visually as well as with a depth gauge, bearing in place, etc - the bearing seating seemed to be cut slightly too shallow(vs undersized), more on the larger part. I am more particular about areas like these with moving parts. Mine was a smaller gap than in Tom's picture.

Careful profiling and slightly more material removal closed the gap (I used a small/correct diameter flap sanding drum - nothing major). It was an easy fix and nothing to complain about.

I'm more than happy with Armortek's manufacturing, especially impressed with how the sheet metal and machined large surfaces line up, and also especially how the Tiger turret matches the top and mantle.

Merry Christmas to all,
-Eric

Tom Wittstock · Post by **Tom Wittstock** » Sat Dec 26, 2015 1:58 am

I have a question in regards to the Drive Axle. When incerting the Pinnion (JO441) into the Pinnion Gear (CM0249) does the pinnion (JO441) incert into the I.D.of the Pinnion Gear (J0441) all the way as far as possible before screwing in the GRUB M4x6?
The way I set mind up (see picture) is that I made the pinnion gear (CJ0441) just meet the Front/Rear Differentail while the main Gear pinnon (CM0249) rotate freely and smoothly.
As as result you can see from the picture that the back-side of the pinnion in the I.D.(CJ0441) is not flush with the Gear pinnion (CM0249). Should this be ok before closing the Gear Box.

Thanks

Tim Semas · Post by **Tim Semas** » Sun Dec 27, 2015 5:26 am

Hi Tom,
Yes you'll have to set CJ0441 back as far as it can go, once in the housing CM0112 with the bearing 608ZZ in place and bolted down. Then you'll have to set the gear CM0249 back as far as possible, sitting behind the Housing CM0112 about 1/16th of an inch. Now lock your set screw, or Grub as the Brits call it. The reason why CM0249 has to be set back. When you get your Motion Pack, you will get a new part called a Trust Pad CM0116. A brass pad that mounts between Motor mount CM0108 and Gear CM0249. It prevents Gear CM0249 from working forward and flopping around.
I learned this the hard way once i received my Motion Pack, my gear CM0249 was set flush with the housing CM0112 and i couldn't get the Motor Mount to bolt flush because the Trust Pad couldn't go in because it was hitting the Gear CM0249. So' i had to re set it. I hope this helps, Tim

Sdkfz 251 Build

Sdkfz 251 Build

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