Armortek

Having had a solution to a problem with my Mark IV generating a new problem which in turn had Mark providing the next solution!
The issue raised is how to secure the various modules in to the Tanks?
I have found that for the majority of cases the use of self adhesive Velcro Strips works very well. It keeps things securely in place whilst allows Receivers, Power Modules, etc. to be pulled out to gain access to wiring/plugs and fuses.
The Mark IV is hellishly realistic in the way that it can come crashing down, particularly on solid surfaces, so the Power Module is held in with Spring Catches and the Speed Control is bolted down into Rivnuts fitted to the mounting plate. (This is to avoid having to contend with nuts!)
There is a line of thought that having the modules bolted down on to the Tank body helps heat dissipation, Velcro not being so useful on that front.
I look forward to further ideas and inspiration.
Steve

I've had problems in the past with Velcro pads sticking to each other better than they have to the inside of the tank, but I have a feeling that that may have been down to a combination of Velcro quality and the surface preparation and cleanliness before fitting them for the first time.

I'm an inveterate tinkerer, so none of my modules are fixed down but I know, from getting up to my elbows inside other people's tanks, that the ones with the modules bolted down are the hardest to work on.

If they're mounted flat on nice big sponsons such as available in the Tiger, then it's pretty easy but ones mounted to the lower hull sides, say in a Panzer III, can be a pain to get into.

Adrian.

Steve, Adrian, sounds like a subject for the Knowledge Base, although I suspect there are a variety of equally valid methods used around the community.

My preference is to hard mount the modules to the hull, vertically where possible, in order to allow easy access to the leads and terminals. The only exception has been the power module which I've tended to mount horizontally on a tray. I simply don't trust Velcro to hold the modules secure and prevent chafing of wires. I'd like to know whether heat dissipation is a real issue or not - I've not been aware of any issues.

My method is a bit labour intensive but works well. It involves drilling and tapping mounting bars to the hull sides. The bars each have an M7 set screw projecting to secure the modules. I use a rubber grommet to give a small amount of shock protection. I put some photos on my Cent thread here:

http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... &start=330

If there is sufficient interest and agreement about solutions, I'll summarise in a new topic in the Knowledge Base.

All the best. Stephen

Steve,
I think I would avoid hard mounting the modules in the mark 4, As Steve W says some sort of rubber grommets for shock protection would be a good idea.
Regards
Steve

There are no 1/6th Scale Tank Crew Figures to go in the Tanks as they have said "never again". They are sticking to WWII or later.
As I have said before these models do show up facts from the past. It seems that it requires a huge amount of care when manoeuvring over objects. As if you get the Tank going too quickly over its tipping point it picks up kinetic energy very quickly, and as there are no springs the impact is very abrupt! So I feel for the original Tank Drivers who must have got a lot of stick when things were not smoothly driven.
Steve

My Mark IV is probably the least 'modded' inside. I have the power and speed controllers bolted on the kit supplied plate vertically at the rear of the hull. The sound module is just velcroed to the floor on it's end. Then I have the speakers nestled in foan mounts and the two batteries up front, again all secured with velcro pads (branded velcro, not sure it it's better but it was cheap enough).
I was sceptical that would work but so far despite much banging around the only thing that came loose was one of the speakers as the foam had too much give in it for the self-adhesive pads to stick. This is the only par of the layout I might change as mounting each speaker just inside the frame behind each sponson, once again on velro pads is an option.

Oh, and I inadvertently tested the large velcro pads holding my batteries when I forgot to remove them when I tipped the tank onto its side to solve a track problem - they held even at 90 degrees for several hours until I was done

I'm not saying that my option is the best, it was the merely most expedient and involved the least engineering...

Hello,

I use velcro strips to secure my modules. I put TEC 7 on both strips,
one to put on the hull and one strip on the module you wanne fix.
So you can easly remove to modules. The TEC 7 dont come loose, this is a very strong
bonding kit.

Best regards Yves