With a little work however, you can easily achieve the look of weathered, operational tank tracks:
Tank tracks in operational use show three sets of colour:
- the dark grey patina of the base metal
- the silvered worn surfaces in direct contact with the ground
- the dirt, stains and scars picked up in use
Stage 1 - applying the grey patina:
- thoroughly clean all parts with a degreaser such as Upol System 20:
- prime with an etch primer such as Upol Acid 8. Leave to dry for 24 hours:
The red is not really necessary for Allied or modern tracks but does give a good base for the final base colour:
Stage 2 - silvering the worn bits.
- The track spuds (the transverse bars on the underside of the track which provide the surface grip) are invariable worn to a silver colour in use and the model tracks will quickly become worn with use, so no need to silver them. The ends of the track spuds will wear and really catch the light
They can be highlighted with a bright silver, such as Alclad ALC 103 Dark Aluminium or Tamiya TS-88 Titanium Silver (rattle can). On the inside of the tracks, the roadwheels will wear the links and the horns. These can be masked and sprayed or sprayed freehand. Variations of sliver could be added, such as Alclad ALC 112 Steel.
They now need the final stage of adding the mud, dust, scratches and stains of use. This is done with modelling pigments. Take a selection of colours appropriate for the theatre of operations and mix three lots, one dark, one medium and one light. Now apply these randomly to the tracks on both sides and fix using either a pigment fixer or acrylic thinner. Wet the brush and dab it at the edges of the pigment and allow capillary action to spread the fixing agent. The process can be speeded up by drying with a hot air gun or hair dryer.
This process can be done in stages:
- overall dust layer: airbrush misting of very well thinned Tamiya XF57
- dust in crevices: enamel washes, using AK Dirt and Dust Deposits
- dust accumulations: modelling pigments such as Flory Models, AK, Wilder, Ammo for Mig etc
- mud build up, thick pigment and acrylic mastic such as Mig Productions Mud
The following photos show the same sequence:
Light dusting using paint, misted on and as a diluted wash:
Dust accumulations with pigments:
Mud accumulations:
Actually some do, but only when not in operational use. Famous museum vehicles which run from time to time don't show rust, just the dark patina of ageing:
http://www.armortek.co.uk/Forum3b/viewt ... hilit=rust
Knowing when to stop is an art. The tracks may by now be looking a bit artificial but they will rapidly tone down with use and a mixture of natural weathering and the weathering applied will start to look very realistic. It's well worth the effort. Here's the test. Did these pass as the real thing at the start of this topic?