Armortek

I etched 9 T34 85 saws today (1 is for my T34):





I still need to turn the wooden handles, make the handle supports that will bolt on to the blade and make the hull clamps. The finished saw will only use 2 of the attachment holes on each end per this picture:



I may offer an option of a scale log, yes log, with each saw to attach to the hull. I have some scale "logs" that may be the correct length for the T34. I will figure out the proper length of the logs after my T34 arrives this week.

Each completed saw is $60. The "log" is an additional $10.

I'll post a finished saw this week.

Brown

Hi Brown
Very nice looking saw already,i will deffinately be ordering one,cant wait to
see your Log.
Cheers
Phil

Brown,
I don't have a T-34, but the saw you made is really great work. Really nice accessory! I'm sure it will be appreciated by those that have a T-34!

What material did you use for the blade?
Kind regards,
Bob

Bob,

The blades are made from .010" brass sheet which is .0012" off the true scale thickness. Most modern saw blades I have found are made from 15 gauge steel. I might try stainless steel sheets but I'm not sure how you would weather stainless other than straight up painting. I got some blackening solution for brass and copper (not usable with SS or aluminum) to use for weathering the wear of the teeth for a more rusted/used steel look.

I found examples of these saws used on later T34 76s too. I'll post some additional photos tonight. My T34 should be waiting in the garage when I get home tonight and then the real fun begins! Oh, I still have to finish the King Tiger too...

Thanks for the positive comments,

Brown

Hi Brown,
You might try tin as well. Micro-mark has it by the sheet. Great work on the saw, I need to get my etch system set up as well.
Best regards,
Bob

Hi Brown,

Nice work!
FWIW I have found that you can get stainless steel chain to dull down nicely by just heating it up to cherry red with a blowtorch and letting it cool. I think I may have sent you over a photo a while back re your WWI tank. For heavier tow chain, grit blasting it first adds to the effect. If you were to do this on thin parts then then I would clamp them together to even out the tendancy to warp and curl. The annealing effect would make this easy to remedy, but who wants to flatten each part?
Cheers, Fabrice

Fabrice,

I have tried something called "Blacken It" for steel, brass, and copper parts and it works well. I have also ordered material to blacken aluminum and stainless steel (T34 aluminum track links and the stainless cotter pins on the KT tracks). I'll post updates in the 2 threads when I have results.

Brown

Brown,

We have similar chemical blackening agents here, designed for Model Engineers (locos, traction engines etc). They certainly work if you are thorough with the degreasing and preparatory stages. However if they are going to be handled or subject to wear and tear then you need to seal them with varnish/laquer to protect the very very thin layer of black deposit.

The gritblasting/heating treatment provides a mottled grey finish with patches of pink grey. The roughening serves to provide a good mechanical key for an acid etch primer and then normal paints can be applied over.

Experiment on scrap first rather than messing up workpieces, is my (hard learnt) advice.

cheers, Fabrice

Sorry for posting this in mt T-34 thread too:

8 saws for sale @ $60 each:

Here are the logs I mentioned long ago:

I'll now include log for free and I'll let you chose which one if you want one.

I think they look he part and are aged over 7 years!



Please resubmit requests for the saws for you guys that contacted me earlier.

I have a basic hull saw holder almost completed that is part of each saw set. Just ironing out some bugs on them.

I won't be etching any more until Spring at the earliest.

Does anyone here read Russian? I have a figure caption I need help with.

Brown

Saws all spoken for. Thanks for the interest!

Brown

Hi Brown.

I must say I don't have a T.34 model so not much use for the saw! but what a great job you have done well done they really look the part, its easy to see why they are all spoken for.
Top stuff.
Cheers Paul

Need to make the retaining tabs a little shorter:






Waiting for the brass angle to arrive to make the other brackets. Of course the brass angle I think is the best size is the most scarce there is right now, 3/16" x 3/16". Maybe the Canadian hobby shop will come through for me.