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Hello,
here the first pictures of my first Armortek build.
It's my first build, so I decided to start with something not too difficult s the 222.
It will get the motion pack (already inside) a sound board, and if I find the place inside also a smoke generator.
Actually it is in a "driving chassis" condition, that is motion pack fully built in on the chassis, electronics and battery just placed on the chassis for a short test (yes it runs!).
Now I'll need to properly set up the wheels convergence.



















Final painting scheme to be defined. Actually I would like to give it a finish proper to the Italian theatre of operations. If anyone has material or pictures of the 222s in Italy I would be very grateful for the help.

Great job Jan!
Hope we will meet in future

Made a damned work !!!
I changed the "oil" in the differentials.
Found some kind of "really hard and sticky grease for differentials".... 1 MILLION
Yes really one million ! Found it in a local model shop. No harder to be found
The difference could be easily felt rotating with the fingers.
I do not hope that it will finally solve the "skidding issue" of the 222 but is the best solution I could reach.
It will for sure put some stress on the whole transmission, but should reduce the problem to it's reasonable minimum.
Maybe it could cause some top speed drop and some more consumption on the batteries (shorter endurance), but the model is not intended for street racing or endurance !

After a long time, finally the first test with the new lube in the differentials.
Actually I am pretty satisfied with the result.
Made a test of the "running chassis" with a 5cm (2 inch) obstacle.
1 tyre was completely free to run and rotate. Anyway I got sufficient power transmission to the remaining wheels to move without great problems. Actually the free wheel was moving a little faster than the others, but I would say at least 80% of the remaining power was transferred to the other wheels.
Final result will be seen with the complete unit, since the upper structure will add some weight, but I believe it will still work pretty well.

Hello,
I have two questions, the first serious, the second is a mistake I've done and do not find a solution

1) I remember that my grandfather had a mechanical plant during the war. He had a big machine to rectify the big motors (up to tank motors), so the Germans requisitioned the plant and he had the opportunity to see many military vehicles.
He told me that it was pretty common practice to use "tar" (some kind of fluid one, near a very thick paint) on the underbelly of many vehicles. This helped to prevent water to infiltrate and also protected from corrosion and rust. So the underside could look black due to this treatment.
Could anyone confirm this?

2) I've made pretty a lot of painting job... that's ok... just I mixed up some parts.... and now I cannot remember and find out where this to plates belong (I cannot find them in the instructions booklet).
Can anyone remember the name or the code number of this two parts ?

Hello Dan

They are the exhaust Brackets. They need to be twisted so end are 90 degrees to each other.

lee

Thanks Lee,
it was really embarassing situation
should be CJ0339. The parts are in the list, but do not appear on any picture, so I was in a trouble.

Thanks again

Coating the underneath of cars with a product called WaxOyl used to be quite popular, as well as a thick black product to protect against stone chips, so it's not unlikely they did it in the war.

Whether there are any photos in which you could see that in place is another matter

Adrian