Animatronic step by step build
Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 5:39 pm
Hi all,
Here's an updated version of the instructions for our older moulded kit, if you have any questions please contact me at churchillcreations@yahoo.co.uk
The latest CAD designed kits have an instructional video, if you have one of thee then here is the link -
The Neck...
_____________________________________________
There are two dimples in the small neck moulding, these need to be drilled out using a 1mm bit to accept the brass wire hoop.
_____________________________________________
Using the 1mm brass wire supplied cut a small length and bend a square "U" shape using Needle Nose Pliers. The legs of the wire must line up with the two holes in the small neck moulding.
_____________________________________________
Bend a hoop in one end of the remaining brass wire. I use the supplied steel piano wire and bend the brass wire around it as if coiling a spring, use Needle Nose Pliers to ensure a tight fit and ensure the end is as closed as possible to make a circle. Once happy slide the hoop over the "U" shaped brass as shown.
_____________________________________________
Glue the "U" section into the small neck moulding and leave to set.
Once dry drill a 2mm hole through the dimples on both the small and large neck mouldings for the neck pivot pin. When happy place the two mouldings together and push a cut length of the 1mm aluminium tube through both parts ensuring that the middle mouldings rotates freely, if so apply a drop of glue onto each end of the tube. I find the easiest way to cut the tube is to rest a blade on the edge and roll the tube to create a groove, once a visible groove is noticeable you can flex both sides and snap along the line.
I use a 4-5g MG sub micro servo for the small neck (Hitec HS-35HD or Blue Arrow D05010MG are ideal). This needs to sit as far down as possible to avoid the horn protruding too far out of the back. You can either glue or use foam servo tape to fix in place, though I would recommend leaving it loose until fitted into the body to ensure there is enough room for the servo to move in the chest.
Once mounted you will have to bend the brass wire pushrod as shown, you can use a simple Z-Bend to attach it to the servo horn.
____________________________________________
The neck assembly mounts onto a larger metal geared servo for the left/right function. I use Turnigy MG90's as they are affordable, easily available and so far relatively reliable if a little noisy. You need to cut off one of the mounting lugs as shown, take note that it is the lug furthest from the horn output.
____________________________________________
Attach a double servo horn after centring the servo. With the missing lug facing down and the small neck servo facing upwards screw the horn onto the main neck moulding, ensure the screws are far enough out to avoid piercing the small neck servo. You can drill 2mm holes in the moulding to accept the supplied screws for this purpose.
Once you have finished the neck assembly you can fix it into the front body moulding with either foam servo tape or a drop of glue either side of the servo casing. Avoid using too much glue to aid servo servicing in the future. The large servo must line up so it doesn't protrude into the large cutout of the front body molding where the arm servos mount.
Here's an updated version of the instructions for our older moulded kit, if you have any questions please contact me at churchillcreations@yahoo.co.uk
The latest CAD designed kits have an instructional video, if you have one of thee then here is the link -
The Neck...
_____________________________________________
There are two dimples in the small neck moulding, these need to be drilled out using a 1mm bit to accept the brass wire hoop.
_____________________________________________
Using the 1mm brass wire supplied cut a small length and bend a square "U" shape using Needle Nose Pliers. The legs of the wire must line up with the two holes in the small neck moulding.
_____________________________________________
Bend a hoop in one end of the remaining brass wire. I use the supplied steel piano wire and bend the brass wire around it as if coiling a spring, use Needle Nose Pliers to ensure a tight fit and ensure the end is as closed as possible to make a circle. Once happy slide the hoop over the "U" shaped brass as shown.
_____________________________________________
Glue the "U" section into the small neck moulding and leave to set.
Once dry drill a 2mm hole through the dimples on both the small and large neck mouldings for the neck pivot pin. When happy place the two mouldings together and push a cut length of the 1mm aluminium tube through both parts ensuring that the middle mouldings rotates freely, if so apply a drop of glue onto each end of the tube. I find the easiest way to cut the tube is to rest a blade on the edge and roll the tube to create a groove, once a visible groove is noticeable you can flex both sides and snap along the line.
I use a 4-5g MG sub micro servo for the small neck (Hitec HS-35HD or Blue Arrow D05010MG are ideal). This needs to sit as far down as possible to avoid the horn protruding too far out of the back. You can either glue or use foam servo tape to fix in place, though I would recommend leaving it loose until fitted into the body to ensure there is enough room for the servo to move in the chest.
Once mounted you will have to bend the brass wire pushrod as shown, you can use a simple Z-Bend to attach it to the servo horn.
____________________________________________
The neck assembly mounts onto a larger metal geared servo for the left/right function. I use Turnigy MG90's as they are affordable, easily available and so far relatively reliable if a little noisy. You need to cut off one of the mounting lugs as shown, take note that it is the lug furthest from the horn output.
____________________________________________
Attach a double servo horn after centring the servo. With the missing lug facing down and the small neck servo facing upwards screw the horn onto the main neck moulding, ensure the screws are far enough out to avoid piercing the small neck servo. You can drill 2mm holes in the moulding to accept the supplied screws for this purpose.
Once you have finished the neck assembly you can fix it into the front body moulding with either foam servo tape or a drop of glue either side of the servo casing. Avoid using too much glue to aid servo servicing in the future. The large servo must line up so it doesn't protrude into the large cutout of the front body molding where the arm servos mount.