Suitable glue for 3d printed parts.

Forum for Armortek Owners to Meet, chat and share knowledge. You are advised to check 'official advice' before carrying out any modifications.
Post Reply
User avatar
Adrian Harris
Posts: 5126
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:46 pm
Location: Berkshire (UK)
Has liked: 1480 times
Been liked: 1685 times

Suitable glue for 3d printed parts.

Post by Adrian Harris »

As it seems that several people here seem to have experience of 3d printed parts, could I request some advice on a suitable glue for these type of parts :?:

The Sherman prototype I am renovating has 3D printed engine hatches and the hinge side of one of these has snapped off:

Image

I plan to glue it back together and, once fixed, drill through the two sides and insert metal pins to provide some mechanical strength. However, I'm not sure what sort of glue is suitable for this material :?:

Adrian.

Robin Hinson
Posts: 109
Joined: Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:10 pm
Location: BEDFORDSHIRE
Been liked: 1 time

Post by Robin Hinson »

Hi Adrian,

You could try JP Weld which very strong and it comes in two small tubes. Mix equal parts, this dries in about 6 hours. Or they do a similar product called JP Quick which dries in 15 minutes. Both can be obtained at Motor Accessory shops.

Best Wishes

Robin Hinson

Steve Norris
Posts: 1231
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 11:42 am
Location: Manchester
Has liked: 8 times
Been liked: 701 times

Post by Steve Norris »

Hi Adrian
If i am not mistaken the 3D printed parts are made of some form of plastic, it may be worth a try using plastic weld which can be obtained from most good model shops.
When i first saw the photo i thought it was a real Sherman being restored, its almost a shame to remove the rust :roll:

Steve

David Skeldon
Posts: 235
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 8:26 pm
Location: Herts
Has liked: 33 times
Been liked: 312 times

Post by David Skeldon »

Hi,
I have a couple of the metal armortek grills spare if you want them.


David

User avatar
Adrian Harris
Posts: 5126
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:46 pm
Location: Berkshire (UK)
Has liked: 1480 times
Been liked: 1685 times

Post by Adrian Harris »

Hi David.

Thanks for the offer but I'm trying to keep as many of the original parts as possible.

I'll have some spares too, once I've converted one of my hulls to an M4A2.

Oh, and I love your jack-in-the-box flail commander :D Any chance of a description of how it works :?:

Adrian.

Brian Leach
Posts: 363
Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2008 4:15 pm
Location: Auburn, Wa USA
Been liked: 3 times

Post by Brian Leach »

How did you get such realistic rust-excellent! :wink:

Brian

User avatar
Adrian Harris
Posts: 5126
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2007 10:46 pm
Location: Berkshire (UK)
Has liked: 1480 times
Been liked: 1685 times

Post by Adrian Harris »

http://www.armortek.co.uk/gallery/main. ... emId=11309 :wink:

I'm having to treat everything with oxalic acid to get rid of it :!:

Adrian.

Sarah Frazer
Posts: 202
Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:12 am
Location: Bristol
Been liked: 2 times

Post by Sarah Frazer »

Hi,

At the Model Engineering Exhibition there was a stand which did 3D printing and they said the material used was ABS plastic. Devcon do a Plastic Weld which states is good forABS.


Regards,

Sarah
'I reject your reality and substitute my own'

User avatar
Armortek
Site Admin
Posts: 2934
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:30 am
Location: Winchester, England
Been liked: 3694 times

Post by Armortek »

Hi

Yes it is ABS plastic. The best adhesive that we have found is a CA, any thick grade of superglue.

Regards
Mark
Armortek

Post Reply