The Official Armortek Forum - World leader in one sixth scale metal kits

Hello,

I'd just like to introduce myself to the forum after taking delivery of my late model Tiger.
First impressions are WOW! What a great kit.

I do have a couple of questions,

What is the recommendation for painting, complete the build and then paint or paint the various sub assemblies prior to final assembly?

I have absolutley no experience of RC at all, I'm going to fit all the option packs to my Tiger, what controller do I need to run them with?

Any help appreciated.

Adam

Adam;

I may be different than most but what I am doing is putting the assemblies together and making sure everything is cut, filed, ground and shaped prior to painting. This includes all the aftermarket parts I have purchased from the vendors. I also prime the parts to protect again rust or oxidation at this point.

After I have finished assembling everything, I will disassemble it, then paint everything and reassemble it for it's final time. This may be a little anal but it works for me.

Lucien

Hi Adam,

Welcome to the club. On my early tiger, I painted it after most of the major stages, but ended up having to strip it and repaint after making changes. So this time with my Sd.Kfz. 7, I am doing it the same as Lucien, build first and make an alterations, then painting.

I will let one of the others give you advice on the radio, not that clued up on them myself.

Paul .

Lucien Runge wrote:Adam;

I may be different than most but what I am doing is putting the assemblies together and making sure everything is cut, filed, ground and shaped prior to painting. This includes all the aftermarket parts I have purchased from the vendors. I also prime the parts to protect again rust or oxidation at this point.

After I have finished assembling everything, I will disassemble it, then paint everything and reassemble it for it's final time. This may be a little anal but it works for me.

Lucien

Hi,

i'm a newbie, too. I'v already built a Tamiya Tiger I, but i think the armortek model is something totally different.

@ Lucien: Do you prime every single part before you assemble them for the first time ? For example: Do you prime the road wheels and the wheel tabs before assembly ?

Greetings Enno

Hi,

one more question: How many cans of primer do you need for the whole Tiger ?

Greetings Enno

hi all

thought i would just add as no one has mentioned it yet make sure you clean all metal parts before painting/priming to remove any oily residue from machining three large cans of primer should do ya

also if you go to the old forum / archive you should get all you need to know out of it as the differant build's have been coverd many times

regards

colin

Thanks for all of the advice, it makes sense to trial fit and then strip and paint so thats what I shall do.

Adam

colin fairweather wrote:hi all

thought i would just add as no one has mentioned it yet make sure you clean all metal parts before painting/priming to remove any oily residue from machining three large cans of primer should do ya

Hi Adam

I would also recommend a "self etching" primer for the aluminum parts. It can usually be found at an automotive parts/paint store. It will adhere to the aluminum better(not much) but better then just plain primer.

just my 2 cents

I look forward to seeing your build.

Tim

Adam;

I prime every part after I test fit them... paint thickness can affect part fit so I want to know how it will affect the final assembly.

Also, I've nitro-carburized all the "steel" swing arms, track pins, etc. to protect them from corrosion (prior to priming them).

Lucien

Enno Duplitzer wrote:

Lucien Runge wrote:Adam;

I may be different than most but what I am doing is putting the assemblies together and making sure everything is cut, filed, ground and shaped prior to painting. This includes all the aftermarket parts I have purchased from the vendors. I also prime the parts to protect again rust or oxidation at this point.

After I have finished assembling everything, I will disassemble it, then paint everything and reassemble it for it's final time. This may be a little anal but it works for me.

Lucien

Hi,

i'm a newbie, too. I'v already built a Tamiya Tiger I, but i think the armortek model is something totally different.

@ Lucien: Do you prime every single part before you assemble them for the first time ? For example: Do you prime the road wheels and the wheel tabs before assembly ?

Greetings Enno

Enno This is very different from Tamiya, I do not have a Tiger but I have a Panzer4 and Panther, Be perpared to work on inividual parts to get them to fit. And do primer all the steel parts after you clean them. Not just for rust, but steel and aluminum do not like each other. When in direct contact, over time, they will attack each other and cause electroilisis (rust) You want to insulate them from each other.
Good luck, and have fun.

Hi Adam

Moving on to your second question.

You are going to need a 6 channel 40 MHz setup like the Sanwa VG600 that Armortek used to supply, or a 2.4 GHz system like the Futaba 6EXP.

The advantages of the 2.4 GHz sets are:

No xtals in the transmitter or receiver to worry about
No chance of interference if someone switches a set on by mistake
Short stubby transmitter aerial – No poking peoples eye’s out

There has been plenty of discussion about the new 2.4 GHz sets. Have a look at the old Forum at http://www.daventrynet.co.uk/forum/foru ... =2243&PN=2
or at the UK Tank Club Forum at http://uktankclub.star-one.co.uk/phpbb2 ... hlight=ghz

There is plenty of choice of radio sets, and probably even more advice. My personal opinion, after 30 years in radio control, is that the 2.4 GHz systems are the way of the future.

Hope this helps

Mick

Hi everyone, thanks again for the tips regarding painting and to Mick for the transmitter advise.

I was quite intigued by Lucien Runge's post and the "Nitro-carburized " track pins and swing arms, how is this done?

Adam

colin fairweather wrote:hi all

thought i would just add as no one has mentioned it yet make sure you clean all metal parts before painting/priming to remove any oily residue from machining three large cans of primer should do ya

also if you go to the old forum / archive you should get all you need to know out of it as the differant build's have been coverd many times

regards

colin

Hi Colin,

can you post some links please ? I spent quite some time searching the archive, but i haven't found much. Can you post some keywords from the subjects ? Thank you very much.

Greetings Enno

Hi Adam
Welcome to the fun.
The track pins are now plated as standard.
Our American freinds go for Nito carbide finnish on some items
I personaly dont see the point.
I am building a Panther and its gone together with a
small amount of "Fitting" to get a good pull down on some parts.
and I have changed some items because I wanted too for more detail.
I have used 7 cans of U POL etch primer (sprayed in very light coats)
that I bought in Halfords however it may be a special order item in some stores.
Its £10.99 per tin. I put things together and then stripped down and cleaned rubbed down lightly with 600 grade wet and dry to get a key for the paint and then de-greased with thinners left to dry overnight and then spray.

I hope this helps.

Derek

hi enno

i just went back to the old archive and typed in (primer) and it came up with all the links you need for infomation with regards to priming also if you put in (paint) or (painting) this will do the same

hope this helps

regards

colin