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Hi all,

As we has spoken about it in another thread I thought I would show what I have been occupied with this summer.
Maybe now you understand why my Panther will take 5 years to finish…………..

Being a hardcore rivetcounter I did find the sprockets within the kit a bit plain and skinny to be accepted by me.
Since time has no issue in my book I decided to give them the “Full Montyâ€

hello kent,
lovely work on the drive wheels, please can you tell me what methered you used for the casting effects on the surfaces.
keep the posts coming on your good work.
chris,

Hi Kent,

OOOOOOHHHHHH YEEEEAAAAAAAH!

Beautiful. As I knew it would be. Super Work. I'm really looking forward to seeing the progress of your Panther in the years to come.

Hi Chris,

There's another thread under "Panther" catagory on Kents method of texturing.

Best Regards

Tim

Kent,
Awesome work, I really like your cast look technique.

I might add my 2 cents on why the thin metal strips are bent around the bolts heads. This could be a cheap and very fast method of keeping the bolts from working loose. A sort of thread locker. These tanks were around before the days of Loctite. They did have castle nuts like you so adeptly informed us, but these are expensive to produce and require a cotter pin or safety wire in each nut - something someone in a hurry (factory getting bombed) will not want to fiddle with.

A cheap solution is a piece of sheet metal under the bolt head, and any lunk with a screw driver and hammer can bash the sheet metal around the bolt. The sheet metal plate has to be secured or it just becomes a washer- easiest way to do this is make it long enough to have another bolt go through it (2 hole plate). To remove the bolt, simply bend down the sheet metal a bit and take the bolt out. Bash it back in place when the bolt is re-installed. Quicky, easy and can be done (almost) under fire.

Just a thought? but makes since from an engineering standpoint.

Keep us updated on your progress.
Bob

Hi Bob

That is exactly correct. Method is still used on some things today.

By the way, what other neat Panther parts do you have up your sleeve?

Tim

Outstanding work Kent , If you keep this up you will have a top noch Panther on your hands . Kent for the texture fininsh did you use Mr sufacer 500. Dale

Hi all,

Thanks for your kind words they make me but keep them coming as they are gas to my work

Chris and Dale//
Here is a link were I described how I do the cast surface look.
A well known technique but modified as we are working on metal not plastic here.
http://www.armortek.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32

Bob//
Well described but do you know what the encircled metal plates was used for? (probably some kind of locking bar for the hub cap or something)



Please note that here on the sprockets the lock bars was bended in to the bolt heads with 2 bends.
This bending I seldom see on any 1/6th tanks! Shape up gentlemen! As they were of no use without those bends as Bob described and I wrote above under my first made conversion.

Tim//
If you ask me I will take on the 4 engine grills (CH0128) next.
Has big plans for them..............new topic will be posted, stay tuned.

Cheers
Kent

Kent,
This is a real WAG on the metal piece in question, but perhaps a shim of some kind? Looking at the real photo of the sprocket, it looks like the front sprocket ring is a separate piece from the rear casting? Maybe a shim, or data plate of some kind? Good one, a real stumper.

Tim,
With Kents help I making replacement drivers hatch hinges. I hope to have some photos soon as the machining on the first sets is done. These look great and are more accurate than the ones supplied with kit.

Also with Kents help, I'm making "early" G model fan shroud, to replace the crew heater version as I need another one for my early G version. The machining on this is a challenge as there are a lot of details. I'm still learning the CAM software for my CNC so this one will be a while...

I also recently added mantlet stops to the turret. These are small blocks just behind the mantlet to keep it from smashing into the turret. Hope to have some photos of those soon too.

Anything new on the hubs?
Bob

I was thinking maybe it's a gasket of some type between the sprocket ring and inner casting.

Kent-can't wait to see em.

Bob,

Excellent! hinges are on my list. I was planning on tackling those when I do my deck replacement and related details. I look forward to seeing them. That'll save me some time(assuming you're making enough to go around

I saw the the mantel stops in photos but did not add them. I look forward to seeing those as well on yours.

Unfortunately that darn "work" thing has gotten in my way and I have been traveling quite a bit recently. Leaving me little time to do much on the Panther. Waiting on machined version of the idlers(these will get the insert detailed spokes etc)I should have stowage bins and exhaust guards tomorrow though.

CNC inhouse? I envy you.

Keep up the great work

Tim

Tim,
I can make you a set of hinges. I have a couple types. Kent wanted his exactly like the original, so the hinge slot spacing is different, and will require modifying the brass M4 hinge bolts supplied with the kit to be a bit wider.

I didn't want to change the M4 hinge bolts, so I kept the hinge spacing to be the same as the stock one. On both designs however one has to widen the spacing of two of the M3 through holes in the hatch - the current spacing is not correct to be scale. Its easy to redrill the two holes in the hatch and fill the others with epoxy. I took some photos of my installation last night so hopefully I can get them posted. I currently do not have a new gallery set up.

I do plan on making a white metal hatch hinge version to offer at a reasonable cost. Even with CNC machines, the design, programming, set-up, running, and finishing of parts is quite time consuming and keeps the cost of these parts pretty prohibitive..

Currently I have two desk top CNC mills. They are a lot of fun to make prototype parts with -and its pretty amazing what you can make with your imagination. I'm finding the generation of the G-code from the CAD model to be the biggest challenge. One machine has a rotary table so I could attempt to make things like the rear sprocket wheel etc - after my CAM software learning curve improves.

Can you mail me offline at: bobmorey2@yahoo.com? I have some Panther build questions I'd like to ask you...

Thanks, Bob

Seen some of you guys cast numbers on a number of parts I simply had to do the same!

After much searching I finally got hold of a miniature railroad shop that had them in stock and wow is this fun.
Take some time to do but the result is stunning.

Seen on photos of the Aberdeen Panther G there were 2 places on the mid section of the sprocket that had them.
at one of them there was BXE and under it B514.


And on the other side one can read (but I am not sure... ) 0213 3605-8XE


No big deal if the numbers are different then the real thing as the feeling of a row of numbers is the issue here.

This is how it looks in 1:6th



Insane yes, they might even not last after a day in the field... but it was fun applying them

Now back to some "heavier build" that I hope to post here soon.

Thanks for looking
Kent

Hi Kent

Excellent finishing touch! The sprocket is finished now, right? The cast numbers will look even better once mud and dust gets in there. Just amazing sprocket detail. I can't wait to see what's next.

cool!


regards
Tim

Hi Kent
Those castle nuts look real good, better than I would have expceted from a pair of wire cutters.
The 'shim' thing your wondering about, from my experience of working on trucks I would guess its just something to pry against with a bar when removing the 'hub cap'
I dont know but I could see that plate being hard to get off under some conditions. In witch case that lip would make an ideal backing for a pry bar.

Awesome work Kent! Great to have you posting again on the forum. I missed your posts! The sprocket is absolutely stunning in detail - great addition the lettering. Good to have you back!
Bob

Hi Kent,
I would like to make the same modifications you have made on your Panther. I am not sure to succeed in nevertheless I will try.
I begun on the side plates.
Now I want to start working on the sprocket wheels so I need a lot of help.

1) how did you make the holes on the inner sprocket ring? Have you used an L shaped drill head?

2) because the dummy stud’s diameter is 3,45 mm how large is the diameter of the hole that conyains it? May it be 4,5 mm?


3) How much have you narrowed the 6 triangle shape holes in the outer sprocket wheel?

Many thanks