Armortek

Hello all, just started building my kit after it being in its boxes for too long! This is my first post!
I am enquiring into what is thought to protecting the steel from rust.
Fully aware that the tracks probably rust but I would like to minimise any corrosion.
I have coated one in Lanoguard but aware that it must fully dry to prevent debris sticking and clagging up the motion but it appears not to dry as a ‘cure’ so not a good way forward!
Also on one used a chemical blacking solution which has dried as expected.
Have attached a photo with the single Lanoguard then the blacked one with the remaining ‘self colour’ ie naked.
I am interested in what has been done by others her on the forum and thanks for your thoughts.

I believe all Armortek tracks are aluminium, so they don't rust.

These are steel, they have showed signs of rust.
I think the chieftain was the first to be steel or cast and other models are aluminium.

Cast steel tracks, stainless sprockets, 90mm cast alloy armor on the turret, that's why its the best model Armortek has built so far.
My opinion, I'm bias

As for the track, I don't think the light rust will hurt them, especially if you paint behind the rubber pads. If lubricated and stripped down every so often. (years) I see no need to worry. I have light rust on the spare links fitted on the exhaust box, It looks natural.

It's funny the owners with alloy tracks sometimes go out of there way to paint "rusty" tracks. Chieftain owners just have to take there model outside for a while. Sorted
I brought 10 spare links with my kit, after seeing the beautiful tracks, I felt it was money wasted as they appear bullet proof, literally!
Might turn them into key fobs

Look forward to seeing the build on the forum Graham.

Forgot to mention, take a look at the horn and idlers issue on the Chieftain track, it's in various places on the Chieftain topics.
There's ways round it or just leave it.
But going to a lot of trouble colouring the track might disappoint once you run the model.
Just a thought.

Hi folks.
When I first ran my Chieftian the ground was damp and the tracks quickly took on a rusty patina. After washing the mud off and after attacking with a rotary wire brush they look quite nice now..

For me future running will be only be during the dry season, I may need to move to Austrailia or the US, possibly mmmmm.
Have fun

Charles

John Clarke wrote: ↑

Sat Jan 04, 2025 9:45 pm

Forgot to mention, take a look at the horn and idlers issue on the Chieftain track, it's in various places on the Chieftain topics.
There's ways round it or just leave it.
But going to a lot of trouble colouring the track might disappoint once you run the model.
Just a thought.

Thank you John, wise words of advice much appreciated.
It is something that a decision can be made after build complete as the tracks are easy to remove if needed too.
I have many dip solutions that remove rust as well as the trusty wire brush.

I was not aware that the sprockets were stainless steel. Thanks.

As for the Lanoguard I will not be going down that route as it does not appear to dry off.

I have found the clearance discussion on the return bogies and track horn lack of clearance and will read up again. Thank you. My first thoughts are to reduce the bogies as again they are easily replaced and reducing the track horn could lead into tracks not aligning and sitting comfortably in the main suspension wheels.

There's no problem clipping horns other than the 200 approximately to do. You'll hardly notice and not have trouble with alignment, it's only 1.5 to 2.0mm to remove.
They will make a mess of the groove in the idler/ bogie which will grind smooth after a while I guess. But it will mess up your nice new paint work. The tolerances are tight on the wheels leaving very little space between bogie, shaft and horn no matter what you do to clean them up.
Which is why I opted to clip the horns, that and the clatter while they bed themselves in.
David Bettson created new wheels with greater clearance.
The best option

Hi !

The Lanogaurd from its colour looks very similar to the Mil Std material used to protect full size steel track links ( and other military spares ) in storage. It does not fully 'dry' off and is not 'robust' to being wiped or scraped off. But it works very well for packaged storage in extreme damp and humid conditions. It certainly gives a very prototypical look to the track links, that slightly yellow hue, as they would be delivered to a forward repair depot. But it then gets washed off before use of the parts I believe. It is also very sticky and unpleasant to handle the parts until they are cleaned....

All there best,

Chris