Armortek

With reference to the tracks on my Panther G, which is the correct way to have the split pin?
On the inside or outside of the tracks?

Thanks.

Hello Malcolm,

It is best to have the split pin on the outside which makes the track easier to split. In reality most full size tracks are split by driving the pin towards the hull. A tip I use when joining tracks is to drive a spare pin from the outside to inside which is easier and then replace that pin by driving one the other way (inside to outside). For visual effect there is no reason why you cannot fit the split pins to the inside but you might regret it later on.

Regards,

Will

Thanks Will

Have seen both ways on the forum and can't make my mind up really.
Look better on the inside I think but as you say I might regret it.

So still not 100% sure which way to go

On the full sized tanks, the collars and pins on are on the outside. If a collar falls off, there are plates on the hull side to keep the pins in the tracks. If they were the other way round, the pins could come out without the crew noticing.

The downside on our tanks is that it means you can really only split the tracks around the sprockets or behind the idlers, as anywhere else the pin will foul the hull before it leaves the track.

We've found that a hex screwdriver with a T handle is best to tap the track pin out, as the handle can then be used to pull the screwdriver out to break the tracks. It's best to get as much tension off as possible.

A large set of slip joint pliers are usually used to pull the two sides of the track back together enough to push the screwdriver back in. Then the pin is tapped in its place and the collar and pin reinstalled to finish the job.

Adrian.

Thanks Adrian

I'm sliding towards having the pins on the outside I think

With the painted end of a track pin that is often seen to identify a track splitting point, what is done differently to make it different to the rest?
Are they still secured with a split pin?
Just wondering.

None of my tanks have specific pins designed or identified for splitting the tracks.

It's normally only done when the tracks have come off the sprocket and are too tight to get back on, or if there are motor issues.

If you break a track link, then the track's already split for you

Adrian.

On my Jagdpanther I am using the later type track pins with push on spring washers which face inwards towards the hull sides (as opposed to the earlier pins with holes for micro split pins). To make life easier for track splitting/removal, I have threaded the ends of 2 pins M2.5 and secure them with a tiny nyloc nut. This is my master pin (or golden rivet to use a naval expression) whose head is painted red to aid identification.

Removal couldn't be easier. Position the splitting pin at a suitable point on the idler so it will clear the hull rear panel when pushed, slacken the track tension at the idler then just pop out the pin using a long thin piece of piano wire or 2 mm rod. You can see this on my JP new build log part 2 or 3.

Admittedly, its not easy threading the track pin using a hand die - might be a whole lot easier on a thread cutting mini lathe. Whatever, the system works well but, sadly, the niche in the track link is too small to accept a mini socket so I made up a tiny box spanner from steel tube. The red painted pin head can be held secure for tightening with thin nose pliers. Alternatively, one could slot the pin head to accept a flathead screwdriver but this would weaken an already thin piece.

Best regards from a sunny Normandy