KT 2019 #29

[Michael Allen]

John


Many thanks for your time

I have been PM with Sean and have come to the same conclusion. The hole in both sprockets is incorrect and will need very careful working on to take the grub screw but I must not make it too large thereby allowing the grub to fall out of the taper thread.

I’ll cancel the taper order.

I’ll give it a go later

Again many thanks John

[Michael Allen]

Took very small slices of metal out until the grub screw worked and pushed the taper off the spindle.

Many thanks and for your help


Mick

[Klaus Uschkurat]

Hallo,
würde sagen das der Taper look falsch benutz wird
Madenschraube sollte in das Gewindeloch wo der Einschnitt drin ist geschraubt werden?
Kann mich aber auch irren ?
Gruss Klaus

[Michael Allen]

Klaus

Ich spreche leider kein Deutsch

Mick

[Adrian Harris]

Klaus, die Demontageschraube passt gegenüber dem Schlitz/der Öffnung in der Taper-Lock-Buchse (Google translate )

Klaus, the removal screw fits opposite to the slit/opening in the taper lock bush:

Taper Lock Bush.jpg (129.12 KiB) Viewed 1778 times

Adrian.

[Jerry Carducci]

I'm curious. Just beginning to look at my KT, although I'm still wrangling over the one motor- I'm wondering why the choice of a 1/4-20 BSW
thread for these units? Is there a Metric version that would use a 5 or 6mm grub (or set screw if you're a Yank)? I didn't have any
issues with those of the kits I've worked on so far but one always does try to prepare for the unexpected...

Before anyone asks I realize the taper locks and the sprockets are set for this 1/4-20 BSW thread. Before working on Armortek models I had
zero experience with these taper locks as well as any of the British standard Whitworth threads. All I know about it is it's the oldest thread standard
there is. Not certain how universal the use of taper locks with BSW threads is or even if such things are an exclusive product to a British company.

I always tend to squirm a bit when one piece of anything is dependent on a proprietary piece of kit...

Jerry

[Adrian Harris]

If you look at anyone's specification for the 1008-15 taper lock bush, they all use 1/4 BSW grub screws, with a 3mm hex socket.

I presume there would be too much pain involved in changing the grub screw thread profile to metric, if it works and everyone knows it's BSW.

Adrian.

[Jerry Carducci]

If you look at anyone's specification for the 1008-15 taper lock bush, they all use 1/4 BSW grub screws, with a 3mm hex socket.

I presume there would be too much pain involved in changing the grub screw thread profile to metric, if it works and everyone knows it's BSW.

Adrian.

Adrian I did just that, Mädler and others do just that, 1/4-20 BSW it is. I see an opportunity to add a new tool or two to my collection …

[Mark Heaps]

I have been following this part about the taper lock for a while as I did not understand how they worked. I think I do now due to the picture Micheal Allen posted which I post here modified.

taper lock 2.jpg (94.39 KiB) Viewed 1675 times

The shearpin stops the taper lock rotating around the drive shaft, The two locking grubscrews stop the sprocket rotating around the taper lock whilst also compressing the taper lock against the drive shaft to stop any lateral movement of the assembly.
The release hole on the sprocket just needs to be sufficient depth that the release screw engages with the thread on the taper lock and assists in keeping the release screw centered so that it is against the thread of the taper lock. The screw will then push the sprocket in until it can go no further and then draw the taper lock out.
Widening or deepening the hole in the spocket more than necessary allowing the release screw to come away from the release thread is counterproductive.
Not sure if I am totally right so interested in comments,

[Michael Allen]

Mark

Exactly as I see it having spent the last few days trying to sort it out.

I really would not fit these tapers until you are absolutely sure that the removal process works on your kit.

I did and have had to order a new spindle as a consequence.

Regards

Mick

[Mark Allen]

These posts were timely. I am at the same stage on my KT build. Both of my sprockets exhibit the same issue, the removal grub screw slot Is not large enough to allow the grub screw to start. As I didnt tighten anything while checking this out the lock came out easily and the sprocket assemblies are on their way to the machine shop.

[Michael Allen]

Mark

Very pleased that my post has prevented you getting into the position I am in. I guess that is one reason for the forum. It’s a shame that previous KT builders haven’t warned us as they must have experienced the same issue.

I’m still waiting to hear from AM now they have returned from their vacation. If the price is right I will replace both spindles as it was a hell of a fight to get the sprockets off with faulty parts and the spindles must have been damaged.

Regards

Mick

[Mark Allen]

I hope you are successful! I ordered my modules beginning of April. I have not been able to get a reply since as to status...
So I am reaching a stand still on mine as I wanted to get all the modules in and tweaked to perfection before final paint etc. I do have the turret to do so that will keep me busy for a while.

[Michael Allen]

Having received all of the option packs from AT and following their recommendation I have purchased a FrSky Taranis X9D Plus 2019 transmitter and a FrSky X8R receiver, unfortunately I had absolutely no idea that this wasn’t the switch on and play type system of yesteryear when I used to build pattern planes for my son to fly.

To date I have managed to switch the tx on, bound it with the receiver, completed some very basic housekeeping issues - thanks to Adrian Harris and part completed a couple of inputs - thanks to Stephen White and that’s my lot.

I have absolutely no idea whatsoever what to do to make my tank anything better than a static model and having spent many days looking through YouTube videos I am more confused than before I started. I have only attempted to get movement from the motors so far to no avail at all.

I’m told by the tx supplier that the previous manual is now unavailable and am running out of ideas of where to turn.

Is there anyone out there with a simple idiots guide to setting this thing up or does anyone have any suggestions that might help.

Many thanks

Mick

[Adrian Harris]

Hi Mick.

Have emailed some screenshots - let me know if they help.

Adrian.