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Nice!

A little progress on the escape hatch. All the major parts are done and hand fitted. Bob's version is more true to life. Mine is a simpler version.
All that remains is the locking handles, some bling and a paint job.

Vince

truely amazing work, your escape hatch is a work of art and no doubt will drop with a clag and the real hatch did.

truely amazing work, your escape hatch is a work of art

Mark, you're making me blush.

Yes, it does drop with a clang.

Vince

Looks good Vince,mine doesn't even close properly now I've put Zimmerite and paint on it.



Glen.

Sorry to hear that Glen. If the hatch could close properly before zimmerite and now it can't then it should be an easy fix.

Vince

Very nice work !

Thanks Mark

Vince

Started the painting process on the escape hatch but before I go any further I would like to ask a question.

Are the inside of all hatches painted the same colour as the basecoat of the tank?

Thanks in advance.

Vince

yes all hatches on the inside were painted in the same base colour IE if the hull is painted dunkelgrau/ dunkelgelb then the inside should also be dunkelgrau/ dunkelgrau whilst the turret inside should be painted elfenbein which is a creamy white.

mark lawson wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 14, 2019 10:04 am

yes all hatches on the inside were painted in the same base colour IE if the hull is painted dunkelgrau/ dunkelgelb then the inside should also be dunkelgrau/ dunkelgrau whilst the turret inside should be painted elfenbein which is a creamy white.

This is so exept for the engine hatch that was in left in red oxide as the enginebay.

One interesting note about the turret rear hatch is that it was impossible to close from the inside only.
A helper from the outside was needed to lift it (just another fun useless knowledge about our tanks..... )

Kind regards
Kent

Thanks gents for the info.

Vince

Escape hatch finally finished.
Whilst waiting for the paint to dry between various coats I machined a 45 degree chamfer on the gun pivots.
I also finished work on the electronics enclosure for my recoil setup. The enclosure has a transparent lid so that the leds inside the box can be seen.
Looking at the above photo I think I will add a miniature toggle switch to serve as an ON-OFF switch. I have changed the Arduino Uno into an Arduino Nano as it has a very small form factor. I made this system to be backward compatible. If needed I can easily change to the original system.

I guess that finishes the work concerning the turret wrap.

Now I have to decide whether to start work on the turret roof or the mantlet and barrel.

One thing I am not certain is the gap between the front of the turret wrap and the mantlet. The gap is at the moment 5.5mm.
Looking a photos I get the impression that it could be less than that. Can somebody who has built a pervious version of the Tiger 1 tell me what gap they have. Hopefully I haven't done any boo-boos from my side.

Vince

I have a similar gap on my 2010 tiger. It is too large and is half the explanation why the hatches don't open with the gun in the neutral position. The other half, I have not managed to figure out yet, but the hatches seem to be in the right position re tiger1info.

I would advise against using that particular type of LM2596 DC-DC converter. If overloaded, they have a failure mode which puts the incoming voltage on the output pins, frying everything downstream of them. BTDT

I now test any of these cheap Chinese DC step-up/step-down boards by deliberately shorting the output pins together. If it has a current limit and it works, then I'll use it. If all the magic smoke escapes, it goes in the bin and I look for a different model to use.

People have also mentioned with these variable ones that if the pot goes faulty, you effectively have a 24V to 24V converter

Adrian.