Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

[Phil Woollard]

A little more done today. Message for Dave, I'm going to need another seat for the gunner/ loaders position please.

[Phil Woollard]

The first chieftain engine bay parts arrived this morning after a week in shipping, so should be quite safe by now.
Face mask and gloves, disinfected the outer packages, disinfected the inner packages, the parts inside the same treatment, all done out side in the wind on my property in the country side! Then incinerated all the waste. All packages from China should have the same treatment, in fact this should apply to all packages from where ever!
What a world with live in! This in my opinion is natures way of pruning the planet before it's to late. Already the skies are clearer, the roads have few vehicles on them, so carbon emissions are down.
Remember that guy with the sandwich board saying " THE END IS NIGH "
Keep safe my friends and especially Ivano. I'm tucked away in the country in my little workshop ready for a lockdown.

[Stephen White]

I have no idea what the plates are for close to the fume
extractor but I fitted them all the same.

See here:

The "anti-friction pads" did quite the opposite, they increased friction where it was required. The internal ones were intended to reduce the tendency of the thermal sleeve to migrate down the barrel if the clamps were't tight, shades of Norah Batty's stockings. They also provided some stand-off between the cover and the barrel, trapping a layer of air which helped maintain a constant temperature distribution around the barrel to prevent differential expansion and bending (= barrel droop). Tightening the retaining clamps was a drill any competent gunner went through before firing. The external pads inboard of the fume extractor were designed to protect the thermal sleeve from abrasion when retained in the gun clamp and to increase friction to aid retention. I've absolutely no idea why there is another set outboard of the fume extractor.

To quote from Pam 33, the Gunnery Bible:

4. The thermal covers are made up of a canvas outer, lined with gauze w1re and
asbestos. They are retained in position by loop clamps located around the
outside of the cover which, when tightened up, compress a series of pads
(Mintex) and prevent the sleeve from moving in relation to the barrel. In between
the clamp, the cover is retained by quick release straps. Hose clips retain the front
thermal cover on the fume extractor retaining nut /locking ring.

[Phil Woollard]

The radiator assembly is looking good Ivano, it went together without much fetling. I think the top grill is a bit long looking at the photos from Bovington, see below.

[John Clarke]

The radiator looks great, but it looks like space is going to look a bit tight else where.

[Ivano Costantini]

Hi Phill,
the grid must be cut to the right length. It is long for those who want to make radiators to scale. A piece less to be redone.

[Ivano Costantini]

Maybe this photo makes you understand what I mean.
How do they seem to you?
Is the measure ok? If it is ok, as soon as you can go out and reopen the activities I finish the engine head and mold everything else.

[Phil Woollard]

The fit is good the quality is good, I expect that you will you be making the water jacket castings for the radiators to hinge on? regards Phil.

[Ivano Costantini]

I don't know if I understand correctly, you say that the radiator is tight?

[Phil Woollard]

I think John may have said that but I think he may have been referring to the overall height, the engine top cover and plumbing will fill that space! There's plenty of room under the radiator maybe 30mm

[Ivano Costantini]

Hi Phill,
unfortunately at a distance, without knowing the language it is very difficult,
we both have to be patient.
If I understand correctly, you say that under the radiators there is space (30mm.).
The space must be above, not below. The space must contain the engine head, the front flywheel and the top of the coolant tanks.
The head portion is 45mm, you have to add 5mm of base and about 5mm of flywheel. Total 55. Armortek, as I have already published, gave me a measurement of 65mm. So in my opinion everything is correct.
Please tell me if I have written well and if it is clear.
Thank you!

[Ivano Costantini]

In addition to the radiators, I made the upper part of the head, the coolant tanks (they will be cast in resin and not in 3D, otherwise they would cost too much, they are very bulky pieces) side pipes as shown in the photos and radiator support brackets. What do you mean by the water jacket castings for the radiators to hinge on.

[Phil Woollard]

Hi ivano, yes the measurements look correct to me, the coolant tank was what I was referring to for the radiators to be fixed to and hinged. keep the prototype parts coming when you can, I can then construct a base for everything to sit on.

[Ivano Costantini]

Fortunately we understood each other, ALLELUIA!
I was about to lose hope.
As soon as you can still work here, there are no predictions yet, I will make the other radiator and all the other pieces. Italy is in total isolation, everything is closed and you cannot leave the house.
Unfortunately I have no alternative solutions, just wait hoping he will pass quickly. I also have to finish the engines and send them to other model makers, it's not my fault, sorry everyone.

[Ivano Costantini]

I forgot to say one thing,
the rod that keeps the radiators up, I tried to do it in 3D but it is not possible, too thin, it breaks immediately. I tried to make one in brass. I think it is the most correct solution, it is not difficult to build, just a little patience. I'm sorry but I DO NOT provide it.