Armortek

Good afternoon lads, thank you Vince, I had everything crossed.....someone must be watching over me.

Now then, I have a problem.......
I started to transfer the motion control into the hull of my Churchill. I had tested all the options with the exception of the 'smoker''. All transmitter and receiver controls were working correctly as expected, in my workshop.
However, looking forward from the rear.....the left hand motor has a mind of it's own. When switching the motion control on.... this left motor runs slowly in reverse. I can stop the left motor and drive it forwards, but I do not have proper control.
Both drive motors were tested previously and ran at speed, as expected in both forward and reverse.
I have my motion control on two sticks, right stick throttle, left stick elevator Spektrum DX8 with matching receiver.
I have tried the receiver with a battery and two servos, both servos working without glitches.
I would appreciate any advice....Mick
Hold fire men, I think I have solved this issue, stand down.....until further notice

Hi Mick, If you haven't already done so, connect one red box circuit at a time to the power distribution red box and test, starting with the A red box speed controller and main drive motors. If that works ok move on to the next red box.

In the early days of the red boxes connecting A and B speed controllers to the receiver could cause problems because both of them would trying supply the receiver with voltage via their internal (BEC) battery illuminator circuit. Although it shouldn't harm the receiver it could cause it not to work correctly. Generally there should be enough power from one speed controller BEC to power the receivers needs.

An easy remedy is just to disconnect and insulate both the red wires on the incoming plug in leads to the receiver from red box speed controller B to isolate the BEC. The red connector can be unclipped from the plug and isolated with tape. I don't like cutting them unless I'm sure they are not needed any more.

It's a long winded way to connect up one circuit at a time and test, but it does help to isolate a problem should it arise.

Good luck

Mick, Steve McEvoy had exactly the same problem with his Churchill.

It came down to which way round the motion pack was wired to the receiver, but it would still occasionally zoom off at power up.

After working through all the permuations, there wasn't one which allowed full control and didn't randomly head for the hills at power up.

In the end he bought a Taranis X9D

Adrian

Good morning John and Adrian and thank you for your advice. I spent most of the yesterday tying myself in knots trying to resolve this issue. At the moment I have disconnected all but the two motor controls on my receiver, simple is as simple does.
Starting again.....
No joy....the right motor (elevator) works ok. The left motor (throttle) runs as soon as I power up....as far as I am aware I have tried every combination known to man. I am at my wits end.... I think this is a devious plan, designed to sell Taranis X9D..... Help..

Ha Ha......now we have lift off ..... I have set up my Spektrum receiver as described in the Bench test,Section 5A for the Taranis single stick driving....and single stick works....no glitches. I have no experience of 'single stick' however, after yesterdays fiasco bring it on matey

It all sounds strange, it's as if you have a "mix" running in the background on the transmitter, check that all mixes are turned off or try selecting a "new unused model setup" on the transmitter which may be free of any mix setups?

I always run single stick, it leaves the other hand free to operate turret turn, transverse or special sounds, with practice you could fake stabilization on the move or better still hold a glass of beer while driving around.

Hello John, to the best of my knowledge I have never used a 'mix'. I have just two models on my DX8, my Elephant and the Churchill. Both models have their own setup. I checked the 'mixing' on both models, all mixes are Inhibited.
To be fair I was at a loss as to why one of the motors ran without any apparent control. So, having tried I guess most options, I looked at the advice in my instructions. The bench test refers to the wiring diagram 5B and in particular the channel assignment for the Taranis Rx. I followed the setup using channel 2 and 3 on my Rx. These were the only channels used, and is the setup for single stick operation. Powering up I noticed that both motors ran on my right hand stick, forward/reverse and so on. I plugged the three position lead into channel 6....all the sounds worked on a three position switch.
Although I have never used single stick, for the amount of model tank driving I do, I can live with that. I like the beer idea.....Mick

I haven't had a spektum system for many years, and I'm not in position to consider any other idea's, than the previous suggestions I'm sorry to say.
But keep it simple, and if single stick works for you, go with it.
You never know you might like it, and convert the rest of the fleet.

Good morning everyone, just awaiting the predicted storm.....Now, I will set the record straight, I know I said that I had 'single stick' control. That was not strictly (as in the dance) true. I knew something was not quite right....so, I delved into that mine of information, the Knowledge Base, Knowledge Base Topics, and there I found the most informative article, ''Setting up single stick driving'' not only that, it refers to the beloved Spektrum DX8. I will not waffle on....I now have true ''Single Stick'' not the concoction I previously used.
I guess all of Thursday morning was taken up with setting up my Tx and Rx system in the Churchill ....not so easy when your mind in 'old man' mode. Think of what goes where and then promptly forget. Anyway guys, the Sun has suddenly appeared in an otherwise grey sky.....have a nice day,,,,,Mick

Looking great Mick. Your work area is always so neat and tidy.
Dont REVERSE into the china lol

Good morning lads, she really looks ' the business ' the more I see her.....

Stunning mate. Absolutely stunning. I love the moody red photograph although its a shame the deadpool look has gone

Hi Mick

Looking very good, you have made a lot of progress on your build . It's given me the push I needed to crack on with mine now the weather has improved. I really must get a radiator put in the garage.
Looking forward to seeing the painting stages.

Regards
Gary

Good morning everyone and thank you Gary, I have enjoyed your attention to detail. I had the same problem with those armor plates, the button heads and nuts are a pig to tighten...I reconfigured a 3mm spanner. I had noticed from original Churchill photo's that the button heads in the kit, appear to be Hex heads, what do you think.
Fitted the mudguard ribs....and made a start on the rear fuel tank fitted on the rear, an add-on I spotted which I would like to feature. This model of the Churchill has a real presence and is a pleasure to build....Mick

Nice bit of recycling Mick.

I've been trying to convince a friend in the US that he should use the little tomato paste tins for the drums on the back of his T-34, but he's not convinced.

Adrian.

Hi Mick

That's an interesting point you raised concerning using hex heads instead of button heads for the bogie armour plates. I have checked through my photos and the bolts were inserted from behind the plates with the nuts on the outside. Definitely hex heads in the photos.
I have only done three plates so far and used a hex head for the 'hidden hole' . I will see how my stock of m3 x 8mm hex head stands and use those instead. I will have to check whether the bolts can be inserted from behind the plate but even if that isn't possible it will still be closer to full size with the hex head showing.

Regards
Gary