A34 COMET
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ROAD SPRINGS
Hi Guys
Found a a paragraph under maintenace in the Official Comet 1 Handbook
Quote
ROAD SPRINGS
Maintenance
No maintenance is required other than a frequent check for broken spring units
The ground clearance of the vehicle is approximately 18 inches,and should it appear to vary from this figure,the vehicle must be placed on a hard level ground,and the ground clearance checked at the four corners.
To locate a broken spring or springs,inspect the road wheels to the lowest corner.
With normal spring pressure the tyres at point of contact with the track are bulged,but with a broken spring,the pressure is insufficient to bulge the tyre,the difference being obviouse.
Report suspected broken springs immediatly.
In short,that means our suspension arms will go floppy and the ride height of the Tank is aprox 18 inches
Which = 457.5mm = 76.2mm 1/6 scale.
Found a a paragraph under maintenace in the Official Comet 1 Handbook
Quote
ROAD SPRINGS
Maintenance
No maintenance is required other than a frequent check for broken spring units
The ground clearance of the vehicle is approximately 18 inches,and should it appear to vary from this figure,the vehicle must be placed on a hard level ground,and the ground clearance checked at the four corners.
To locate a broken spring or springs,inspect the road wheels to the lowest corner.
With normal spring pressure the tyres at point of contact with the track are bulged,but with a broken spring,the pressure is insufficient to bulge the tyre,the difference being obviouse.
Report suspected broken springs immediatly.
In short,that means our suspension arms will go floppy and the ride height of the Tank is aprox 18 inches
Which = 457.5mm = 76.2mm 1/6 scale.
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Hello Phil, a question, I am about to start on the return rollers and wheels.
The problem is regarding the 'fitting of the bearings'.
Now, I can feel that some bearings will fit easily.
With those bearing with a tight fit, do you carefully drive the tight bearing in, using a hammer.....or press fit in a vice, or what?
I know these situations are second nature to mature 'tank' builders.
I will use the 'Loctite' on each bearing.
The problem is regarding the 'fitting of the bearings'.
Now, I can feel that some bearings will fit easily.
With those bearing with a tight fit, do you carefully drive the tight bearing in, using a hammer.....or press fit in a vice, or what?
I know these situations are second nature to mature 'tank' builders.
I will use the 'Loctite' on each bearing.
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Try rubbing out the hole with a bit of emery cloth first. I had the same problem with the bearings in the gear casings, none them fitted at first and it just required either a half-round file to remove any burrs on the lip or rubbing round the inside with emery cloth. Only one of them needed any real amount of elbow grease to get things moving. It's not that the holes for the bearings are too small or anything it's just that with a compression fit of this nature the tolerances are so fine that even the most imperceptible of angles on the bearing as you're pressing it home and it will jam a little. Where you'll notice this most is after you've got them in they'll just pop out easily and then when you're putting them back they'll stick again.
Pete
Pete
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Bearings
Hi Mick
I did the same as Pete with all my bearings until it would just start to go in
then pressed them in with a vice with a block of wood each side so the jaws were not in contact with bearing or component and just a bit of retainer so that it dosn't get any where that you don't want it to.
For the bearings that needed to be sunk in,I just cut some wood so that
it pushed the bearing right in when I gently closed the vice.
Went to Duxford Air Show Sunday and took some paint samples I had mixed,to see what it was like against the Comet in the Duxford land war
fare museum,because thats closer to the Faded Mat which I am aiming for.
I took a sample of SCC 15 Olive drab enamel that I had bought and some of my own mixes of acrylic and I was getting a lot closer now with mine.
Cheers
Phil
I did the same as Pete with all my bearings until it would just start to go in
then pressed them in with a vice with a block of wood each side so the jaws were not in contact with bearing or component and just a bit of retainer so that it dosn't get any where that you don't want it to.
For the bearings that needed to be sunk in,I just cut some wood so that
it pushed the bearing right in when I gently closed the vice.
Went to Duxford Air Show Sunday and took some paint samples I had mixed,to see what it was like against the Comet in the Duxford land war
fare museum,because thats closer to the Faded Mat which I am aiming for.
I took a sample of SCC 15 Olive drab enamel that I had bought and some of my own mixes of acrylic and I was getting a lot closer now with mine.
Cheers
Phil
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Try the Mike Starmer mix I posted in the other thread on paint mixes,took a sample of SCC 15 Olive drab enamel that I had bought and some of my own mixes of acrylic and I was getting a lot closer now with mine.
http://www.armortek.co.uk/forum/viewtop ... 6&start=15
...you'll find it as near as you'll likely get to the colour you want.
5 parts Humbrol 150 Forest Green
5 parts Humbrol 159 Khaki Drab
2 parts Humbrol 33 Black
Mike Starmer has been researching this for years and if anyone can be described as an authority on British Military paint schemes it's definitely him!
Last edited by Pete Mallett on Wed Oct 13, 2010 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PAINT Pete and Stephen
Hi Guys
I have been using Lifecolor Acrylics and from Petes posting re Mike
Starmers Hubrol recommendation,
the 150 green and 33 black converted Ok but the 159 Khaki drab didnt,
But it doesnt look far off at all at the moment.
When I get home I will have a look at the conversion chart for Stephens
Vallejo 50 : 50 70924 and 70888 and see what that looks like on a sample
Cheers
Phil
I have been using Lifecolor Acrylics and from Petes posting re Mike
Starmers Hubrol recommendation,
the 150 green and 33 black converted Ok but the 159 Khaki drab didnt,
But it doesnt look far off at all at the moment.
When I get home I will have a look at the conversion chart for Stephens
Vallejo 50 : 50 70924 and 70888 and see what that looks like on a sample
Cheers
Phil
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Hello Chaps
I always find to fit bearings in with Bearing fit loctite.
Also can i remind everyone that these are models and do not run like the real thing as they are lighter.
Lee
I always find to fit bearings in with Bearing fit loctite.
Also can i remind everyone that these are models and do not run like the real thing as they are lighter.
Lee
http://www.Facebook.com/newthorpemodels
Dont hit me so early in the morning with those negative waves.
Listen carefully i shall say this only once.
If its not broke dont fix it.
Ich Hatt Einen Kameraden
Dont hit me so early in the morning with those negative waves.
Listen carefully i shall say this only once.
If its not broke dont fix it.
Ich Hatt Einen Kameraden
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Thanks for the tip on bearings Lee, I used a light smear of bearing Loctite, they located a treat.
My British Olive Drab BS 298 looks fine, so I will stay with that.
All of my 'Options' arrived UPS this lunchtime, thanks Gill.
A busy Autumn/Winter ahead....and perhaps longer, do not want to spoil the 'ship'....mick
My British Olive Drab BS 298 looks fine, so I will stay with that.
All of my 'Options' arrived UPS this lunchtime, thanks Gill.
A busy Autumn/Winter ahead....and perhaps longer, do not want to spoil the 'ship'....mick
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