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The axle issue did lead to some more work, after removing all the wheel and checking the other suspension arm assemblies.
- tightening the bolts at the underside for 2 of the brass blocks
- re-tightening one of the wheel axle in the suspension arm (secured with a bit loctite)
- tightening the big brass nut on the right idler wheel housing
- ditto for 2 bolts on the other idler wheel housing (I have 2 different versions in the tank)
- making 4 rubber pads for the bumper stops
- applying undercoat for damaged paint areas (mainly track hitting the sides
- removed a lot of crud crept in the spaces between the wheels using a dentist tooth pick (very handy!)


I also have a question for which I could not find an answer, are the ball bearings inside the road wheels supposed to be fitting tightly
and maybe kept locked using a bit of glue / loctite?

You are fixing issues diligently - good work!

Regarding the bearings, I suspect each year model might be different. On my 2010 issue, they did not have to be glued. Partly because of good fit, but also because there was no real need from an engineering perspective. Contrary, I had two wheels that did not rotate freely when screwed in place. This was because the bearings were not properly seated all the way "home", pinching the bearings axially when the end screw was tightened. Easy fix, once you understand what's wrong...

Tigers can be really good runners when you have everything ironed out. There are a lot of wheels to manage....

More work has been don eon the road wheels. In the folder that came with the model, ther eis a note mentioning that an error was made
when the double wheels were made. The depth of hole were the ball bearing are sitting, were supposed to be 26mm in depth, but they
were made using a depth of 25 mm. Brass washers were used to solve it.

As all the wheels were off anyway (and I had a few spare ones), I used one of those in my lathe and removed 1mm of material from the inside.
After dry fitting this wheel now turned freely without the washer

At the moment, all double wheels for one side have been reworked, as well as all the ball bearings have been fixed in place with some
Loctite (the green version).
All the work paid off, all the wheels are now freely running which before some only moved when the bolt on the axle was not completely tightened.

As there were different types of mini bolts used (and some were missing), I opted for replacing all visible bolts to be replaced with
new ones. A little bigger, but it still looks nice. Only some paintwork needs to be done.

I also got myself a 2nd hand lifting table, as wel as a small one to lift the tank up another 20 cm.

Not a Tiger 1 one (yet, might come in the future), but a real Panther track link I picked up today.
Compared to the scaled one, this one is heavy!
Might this be a precursor for obtaining the 2022 Panther G? Maybe.....

A few weeks ago I was able to buy a 2nd hand table lift for a 1/3 of the usual cost.
I also got a motorcycle engine lift which usually is placed under the tank to raise it up.
I always had to use a piece of wood to raise it slightly, as the height of the engine lift was just a little more
than the free space below the bottom. Also, the width and length of the table lift was just a little too less.
I could go for a bigger version, but that would be way to big and long for it's intended purpose.

So, rummaging through my stack of wood, I found a few pieces of 2 by 3 (44 x 69mm planed), as well as some sections of plywood.
An outer frame was made with a plywood base (betonplex for the Dutchies), and an opening for the engine lift on the top layer.
As the 2 mounting points for the push bar were rather close to the end, I asked my neighbor to extend them, now the Tiger
can be placed nicely on the surface and lifted up when required.
And fully raised :

It's been awhile since my last post here, but that did not mean I was sitting idle (See my Panther G thread...)

As the first seris of Tigers did not come with the recoil option and the recoil kits do not work/fit with the
older models, I decided to make one myself.
This plan has been lying on the shelf for several months, and various ideas have passed my mind.

One of these ideas was to tap the gun barrel with an M24 tap (the diameter of the existing hole is 22mm), and then
fabricate from a large bolt a section with the M24 thread, and the rest machined to a diameter of 13 mm.
That part would then stick out in the turret, and the bearing would be a linear one (inner 13mm outer 23mm).
That would also require enlarging the hole in the block of aluminum where the mantled is bolted on.

This was over complicated, so I went for another solution. I still had a linear bearing and made a plug of aluminum
where the bearing would fit into. this busing & bearing would then be put into the mantled tube.
(The busing would five support to the sides when it was glued).

The next step was to make a plug for the gun barrel, that one I made from a piece of PVC and drilled a hole of 13mm though it,
to allow the stainless steel pipe I had.
Next step is to make the bracket for the servo.

A bit more work on the making the recoil feature available on this old girl.

Today I made the coupling piece that allows the retraction and push back of the barrel.
It's made from PVC and bend brass rod which will be the linkage.
Now I only need to find someone who can bend a steel strip. Someone out here having a laser cutter???

It's been a little while since I did my last post here, but finally I got the recoil working. A bit wobbly, it's not easy to have in one hand the RC and in the other hand your smart phone...