Armortek

When I ordered Lipo batteries they did not have the 4000mAh specified by Armortek and sent me 5000mAh. On reading the Armortek instructions it warns about damage to the servos. I am ignorant about such stuff so will these be OK they fit the battery compartment. Have I read item 3 'Using a larger voltage battery will destroy the servos' and got nervous. So voltage is different to amperage?

'Using a larger voltage battery will destroy the servos'

In your case Graham, check that the battery that you received has the same voltage output as that specified by Armortek.
The 5000mAH battery you received has got a higher capacity than the 4000mAH version. In layman's terms it will take longer to discharge. What you are mostly interested in is that the voltage is the same as specified by Armortek and that it will actually physically fit where intended.

Vince

Thank you Vince
I am clear now my batteries are 7.4v.

From what I have heard, as long as it says 7.4 volts on the new battery and it's connected correctly all will be ok
Most Speed controllers these days have a BEC (Battery elimination circuit) built in to the circuit, which removes the need for a separate battery to supply the radio control receiver and the servo's.
The BEC in most cases is set at 5 volts, which is fine for general receiver radio control gear. The only limitation to The BEC is it's current limitation.
I'm sure Armortek will have designed in more than enough capacity on UC Speed controller BEC for any situation.
Looking forward to receiving my gear tomorrow.

Bad day destroying two servos. I have asked elsewhere on the forum for help. Please explain to this thick biker how to set up the brake system and how the servos are to be set up to operate the brakes, please.
Two photos of lights working. Is it possible to switch on/off the light via transmitter? Explain please.

Hi Graham
You'll need a Radio control switcher.
This twin relay version is the best one I ever used. it is built by one of the builders on the forum Andy Quirot.
They can be setup as a latched output or momentary output on either relay.
Because its a relay you can use any voltage with in reason up to 10 amps. n/o or n/c contacts.
Two separate relays, so you could use two different voltages.
Two different devices, side lights,on off, main light on off
Controlled from a three position switch on the transmitter or one of the spare R/C transmitter sticks or an analogue output on the transmitter using one output from the receiver.
There's cheaper similar looking switchers, but the quality and reliability of these switchers out shines the rest.
Some may prefer the twin solid state versions, lower current drain, quieter etc but they can only deal with one voltage.
And anyway, I do like to hear a comforting click of a relay when I waggling a switch on the transmitter.
Put this no in the ebay search 224201641075.
Don't forget you'll need a small plastic box to put it in to keep the wiring safe.

Sorry to hear about the servos, sounds like their stalling against something hard or being pulled too much, not allowing a neutral stop point.
I was surprised to how the "brakes" work. I don't see why two servo's are required one on each brake. I was thinking of a simple single servo "push me pull you system" but I'll look at that in a few years time.

I have a little something in the pipeline but Mum's passing and subsequent house sale has put the brakes on my modelling.

Adrian.

Thank you John that is helpful advice. Adrian I am sorry to hear of your loss and the trauma of selling a house. I look forward to your excellent devices.

Hi Graham,

If you type in rc switch on ebay there is a cheaper alternative that just gives you 5 volts out, enough to drive leds. I have used quite a few of them.

I haven't got any advice on the brake system I'm afraid, I am trying to think of a better way and apart from controlling the 2 servos separately on 2 different channels, which would be awkward to control I can't think of a better way. Still working on it.

Dennis.

Hi Graham

Your Carrier is looking good. Really like the detail on the front end. What are you using for the lights?

If you look on the Craftsman’s Market, Adrian has an led switch for sale which will suit your need

Keep up the good work.

Mick.

Hi Mick
Thanks for the comments. I bought the leds from 'Small Scale Lights' a helpful person runs it and will design lights for your requirements.

Started work on the Instrument panel. Good to have the panel light working? Made the cover from folding brass sheet and reshaped the original block to change the relative sizes of the to faces. Need to add instruments and dials. Looking at source material there doses seem to be different layouts. Does anyone have an image of the definitive (?) Mk2 panel?

...possibly need to use smaller hex screws!

Whilst I wait to be able to visit my son so that he can sort out the electrics for me I have been fabricating a few bits and pieces. The driver's aiming sight and the cover for the instrument panel. Hopefully if everyone follows the rules we will be able to visit relatives before summer.

Had first trial of my two motor system (waiting delivery of the second motor), using timing pulleys and belts. may upgrade to 9mm wide belts.