Armortek

Thanks, Guys.

Ordering now!

Many Thanks Allan

Progress on the rear plate.

Phil

What do you use for the stiffening ribs on the exhaust and what did you use for covering the exhaust screws?

Many thanks Allan

The stiffening ribs should really be rolled into the steel but I use half round 3mm wide strips, these should be brass (if you can get it) and soft soldered in place, or plasticard, just get them straight or they will look pants.
The thread covers should be brass tube with a 3mm ID but most brass out there is Church of England (imperial) so get the equivalent, use a pipe cutter to cut to length. Plasticard tube is good to, I'm in the workshop cutting those right now and will post photos tomorrow morning...Phil.

A quick up date.

Its looking absolutely superb Phil! A large box of further Gucci add on goodies is winging its way to you this very moment

Thanks Phil, they have just landed in the next town post office so I can pick them up first thing tomorrow.

Phil

Thanks for your response to my questions, but I have just one more for now, which is, what angles do you set the road wheels at? I know there are many post about this subject but would really appreciate what they are set at on the build.

many Thanks Allan

Allan for now they are set at 31 deg, now this may change which is relatively easy with this system. Until it's all settled and as this Tiger is to be fully loaded with lots of extras it may need to be a tad higher, we will have to see!

Not only knocking it out ! An awesome job too !!! great work !

I do have an old fashioned work ethic I suppose, if someone works for me I want value for money and vice versa but keeping up the quality!

Thought you guys might like to see some of the gucci parts, I'm sure you all know where they come from.

Very nice collection of after-market parts.

Would love to know the provenance of the MG.

Is the rifled tube from across the pond?

Vince

Hi Vince can't find the email ref the mg 34 ,the barrel insert did indeed travel across water!

Wow,I wish I had the knowledge and skills to get your quality of finish.Im really nervous about any kind of weathering on mine in case I mess up what I've already done.


Glen

Glen it's only paint but I know how you feel, I start with a perfect finish and then have to make it look like it's worn and knocked about but that's the trick to create that illusion, in war vehicles get tens of years worth of wear or weathering in just a few months. Studying books on weathering has not helped me one bit, ok the odd tip may have done.
Looking through the web images teaches you the most but you have to see what others don't, they do see the overall picture but we need to see the smaller things that go into making our models something to behold.
Then experiment with the medium that we have, the paint, spray it on then rub it off, and apply it again until eventually you think "that really does look convincing"!
Battle damage is one to avoid, dents and dings are ok.
An antique has a warm finish not just a worn finish. We need something in between.