00 FD 96 John's Main Contender

[andymusgrove]

John

Ok i hold my hands up - totally forgot about the idler's

Really good work - keep it up.

i just Love Chieftains..

Andy

[John Clarke]

No problems Andy.
The parts are stacking up, firstly having to give them a good wash and rinse.
Perfect time to give the wheels a scouring to take the glaze off the rim faces with some fine wet and dry.
I find an old powered tooth brush helps to get into clean the nooks and crannies of the castings to remove any casting sand debris.
A word of warning, don't use the partners tooth brush, it won't end well.

[John Clarke]

There are so many bits and bob's to clean and prep on the suspension and road wheel assemblies, even keeping it pretty standard the parts are mounting up in the painting area. (A box on the lift table).
So for a bit of light relief I thought I'd go though the Chieftain picture library on the PC.
Finding Different anomalies where ever you look from one vehicle to another. Not just upgrades, just basic differences.
As I have always said,
"Nothing is written"
or was it "Fate is what we make"
Could it be "Standard is when it works correctly"
or "If it Fits, Fit it!"

It could be a topic all of it's own.
Spot the Difference. (And it's not the track missing or the duck tape)

[Stephen White]

John, a couple more for you:

Of course, Chieftain was built on two lines, Vickers Ellswood and ROF Leeds, so there might be some variation on those grounds. Chieftain was also ordered in relatively small batches, see the contract history in Dick Taylor's book. In amongst the UK contracts, there were numerous export contracts with significantly different build standards. The Mk 5s for example were contemporaneous with the export Mk 5P and there are different drawing sets for each type.

Apart from bin-ology and crew stowage, crews did very little local modification, mainly because the turnover of tanks in a regiment during the TOTEM POLE programme was so great that you rarely had the same tank for more than one training season. Also, in the seventies and eighties we spent less time on our tanks in Germany than we spent on operations elsewhere (especially Northern Ireland) and on training in Canada.

That said, I don't know if the difference in your photo is a one off or not. All I can say is that the original design drawings show the fitting in question being on the same side as on your second photo.

[John Clarke]

Actually, I was pointing to the direction of the position of the Main Gun Clasp locking mech.

Just when I thought I knew it all.

Back to the drawing board.

Nope!

That's probably a bunch hokum too

[Stephen White]

Yes, John, that's what I was referring to obliquely as well, but I didn't want to spoil your sport for others. It's a Chieftain spin on a "spot the ball" competition.

[John Clarke]

Eloquently put as always Stephen.

I'll stick at being the Party Pooper.

I'm guessing there were "optional extra's" on most vehicles in service.

[Richard Goodwin]

There are so many bits and bob's to clean and prep on the suspension and road wheel assemblies, even keeping it pretty standard the parts are mounting up in the painting area. (A box on the lift table).
So for a bit of light relief I thought I'd go though the Chieftain picture library on the PC.
Finding Different anomalies where ever you look from one vehicle to another. Not just upgrades, just basic differences.
As I have always said,
"Nothing is written"
or was it "Fate is what we make"
Could it be "Standard is when it works correctly"
or "If it Fits, Fit it!"

It could be a topic all of it's own.
Spot the Difference. (And it's not the track missing or the duck tape)
Cheiftain-web5.jpg
kruse_chieftain_26.jpg

I'd go with the missing towing thingamabob and the DO NOT TOUCH sign

[John Clarke]

I went Brum (Birmingham) at the weekend, taking the better half shopping and a chance to visit my favorite bookshop and model store, Ian Allan books.

Gone, totally gutted as was I.

Apparently some one has opened up another shop called Tornado books and hobbies, Dalton street. I hope it's there next time I visit.

So on a book-less rainy weekend with a dick'y tummy, continued that hated part of the hobby, painting. While waiting to do the next coat, I had a look at the sprocket hubs. Other than a clean up and a little hole in the hub cover (Grease point?), not much to do. I've ordered some square M2.5 nuts for the sprocket ring to see if I can make something of them.
I was going to order some miniature M3 Castle nuts for the hub cover. But thought I have a go at making them.
Easy really, just converted some M3 nyloc's with dremel type tool.
Because my eye sight is pretty poor the magnifying glass stand was necessary.
I fitted the Nyloc nut to a long M3 treaded pin and two M3 nuts on the end to steady the Nyloc nut. The pin holding the Nyloc nut gets hot, wear gloves and goggles.
I found that the first 6 flats individual ground out would melt the plastic in the nut cap, so wire brushed the ground slots on the nut, allow to cool (a few seconds) then went for a gentle grind a second time to clear and clean out. wire brush again, done, make another.
I'll have to make a few studs for the hub, but the Castle nut effect will be there.
I'll leave the split pins to the guru's.

[Phil Woollard]

I like those !

[John Clarke]

First day for some time, the sun came out. These little fellows wanted to have a wrestle with the belly plate. But I had to disappoint them. I'm waiting for the options packs.
This is Stuart and Kevin (You just can't get the staff these days) Phil's some where around.
I believe the cartoon characters are subliminal form of teaching budding young engineers to wear work wear, googles and gloves.

On the other hand, some stainless M2.5 square nuts did turn up today, so I can carry on with the running gear. Namely the sprockets. Loverly jubberly

I thought they might work on the detailing of the sprockets. They look great in standard form, but I've added studs for the center cap and now the square headed nuts are shaped to look a like sprocket ring studs. Once the Castle nuts go on it should look ok, now to do the other one.
The wife's out,
Playing music really loud, seems to calm me down. Grinding away to the Pet Shop Boys greatest. I know... It's a sin.

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[John Clarke]

Now some might have their trusty rusty rasp as a favorite tool. Mine's the hammer a chisel if you want to get the job done.
Since I've listened to "Go West" far too many times the minds puddled, I did think I'd add a possible cost saver and detailer.
You can find on ebay some miniature screw and nuts for pocket money.(100's)
These can be made into miniature studs like on my road wheel hubs and other stuff, the latest mod is a miniature grease nipple, ok their a little big at M1.2, but any smaller and the paint would engulf them. A blob of solder covers the slot.

Does any one have a full list of casting numbers?

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[Stephen White]

Does any one have a full list of casting numbers?

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John, the so-called "casting numbers" are actually references to the part drawing number. Some of the main ones are listed in the ISPL (= parts list) but many are called up on the assembly level drawings so they're not easy to track down. The simplest way to find them is to look on the vehicle but that might not be easy if you don't have ready access. If you have a specific question, I can see if I have the answer from photos or references. Not the whole vehicle though please!

[John Clarke]

Many thanks Stephen. I'll try to keep it simple. Most of the numbers I want to use I know those that can be visually seen. Position is a problem, different mk's seem to have different number positions. The turret for example could have the numbers on the roof or left hand side. I'm not to bothered about this as parts may have changed over time the vehicle's life time. The number I really want is the track idler tensioner right hand side. I have the left hand side number and position and which web it is cast on, but not the other side. The nearest tank to look at is a 130 mile round trip and the number has been obliterated by serveral layers of paint.

[Stephen White]

John, I can't track down the FV number for the right hand track tensioner assembly from what I've got but can look next time I'm in Bovington. These might help, if you're inventive:

In passing, this is easier: