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The Flak 38 was given to me by one of our Club members. It is a Dragon 1/6th scale in plastic. It was all in bits and the gun elevation mechanism was all seized up so I had to do a bit of dismantling to get it all working.I don't think Dragon make the kit any more but I did see one on a site in the States but although it was $50 they wanted another $50 to ship it to the UK. I would have liked to scratch build one in metal but it would be quite a job especially without plans. You might find one somewhere.

Dennis.

Hey Dennis,
I'm glad you posted your pictures of your build, they're keeping me on track with my build. Every time i come to a point that's confusing, i go check your pictures. I call it, WDDD "What Did Dennis Do" lol

Hello Dennis,Tom from Michigan.....like I said early I have not started my kit yet due to the 'Honey Do List".
Anyway when you get the chance and no hurry could you post the correct photos verse the incorrect photos of the 'Track Ron below the Tie Rod.....I'm very confused and could not make heads or tails between Eric's pictures and yours.....

Thanks to everybody for the many pictures....

Hi All

You can assemble the track rod either way round, both will work just fine. As Dennis points out, there is more clearance for steering control if do it his way round.

Mark

Hi Tom,

As Mark pointed out it will work either way but I found the track rod ends were fouling the tie rods if mounted above and when mounted below they didn't and there is plenty of ground clearance. It also might be confusing with Eric's photo as it is shown with the chassis upside down, my arrangement is on page 3 of my post.

Dennis.

Change of colour for the gun and now that is finished I can concentrate on the rest of the build.

Dennis.

Playing about the other day and I noticed suspension sagged on the left hand side. Upon investigation I found about 4 of the 6 suspension arms had moved on their axles. The grub screws were tight but I may not have Loctited them well enough, so I have now drilled and pinned all 6 arms. I didn't need to do the right hand side as they are always going in the tightening direction. Probably me being paranoid but belt and braces as they say.

Dennis.

Hello Dennis, when I was building my Tiger 1 I did grind a flat on all of the suspension arms along with the locate on the screws. So you would recommend this same idea that I used.

One side opening and closing under radio control.

Dennis.

Dennis, I did'nt mean to say suspension but rather the torsion bars. I had to grind a flat on all of them in order fot the screw to hold them in place sorry

Tom,

I assume you mean the ends of the the torsion bars. The Tiger I built was a late version with the adjustable torsion bars and I think they already came ground with flats on. I just looked back at my build blog and I did drill and pin all of the suspension arms to their axles. I didn't do anything to the torsion bars and have no trouble after a lot of running hours.

Dennis.

Dennis, could you show a picture of the drilled and pinned torsion bars and arms? What size pins did you use?

Now the rear door opening and closing.

Dennis.

Hi Eric,

Can't show you a photo but I drilled through the grub screw hole on part CM0207 with it screwed on tight to part no CM0204 and then pinned using some 3 mm piano wire. I superglued the pin in place as I didn't drill right the way through. I doesn't have to be that strong as all it is doing is preventing the suspension arm coming unscrewed from it's axle. You only need to do the left side.

Dennis.

Maybe Armortek could help us out on this one.....