Armortek

Cheers boss, that drivers hatch sure looked ridiculous. Now those tracks of mine......Just give me time and be patient, when she's been running for a while in all kinds of conditions the finish will evolve into something special, you mark my words! we have got to celebrate these steel tracks as I believe this is the way forward for Armortek. The JT should have them for sure and if anyone offers steel tracks for the JT I'm sure they will sell.

Some interesting bedtime reading, 70 odd pages of it!

More panting and the off side rubber goes on.

Nice job Phil. Looking forward to the lesson in weathering! Incidentally, roughly how much rubber based cyno did you use in total?

I think I ordered the 100ml bottle Richard, that will leave me plenty for the next build. Now weathering that's a tricky one but I can see what I can do.

Prefer the shading and not the fire damage Phil. A bit of dirt and a wash down after the exercise ready for parade.

Hi Phil loving the build , quick question , the paint you are using presumably uses some sort of solvent thinners of some description , can you still use acrylic based paints like Tamiya for the weathering and finer detailing or do they either react or not adhere ? Thanks
John

Hi John, excellent question. Tamiya is acrylic and will happily sit on top of most other paint so you can use it as a final top coat or for weathering and washes, a tip, you don't need to buy that expensive Tamiya thinner as meths is a compatible alternative at a fraction of the price.
I mix and match a lot, the light stone that I am using can be thinned with flash epoxy thinners or the turps family, the flash thinners are difficult to use so be careful with those.
Always try a test piece before you start on the vehicle.
One of my techniques is to undercoat with a inexpensive automotive aerosol of a similar colour, and then use your expensive Tamiya colour over that to finish. That technique can also allow some shade variations to give the perception of depth on a model.

Cheers Phil

Still painting and will be for some time. Ref the green camo, I cant make my mind up whether to have a fuzzy edge or a sharp contrast , or something in between?

My first inclination regarding camo would be the something in between.

Hi Brian, tricky one this. If the guy painting the camo was issued with a brush and a gallon can of IRR paint then the edge would have been rough but sharp. A spray gun was not generally used but could have been. I shall stock up on blue tack and pin stripe masking tape tomorrow and have a play!

VMT for the Reference Phil!

Hi Phil, following your chieftan build and picking up general tips as you go along. I am not familiar with that model so I don't have anything constructive to add.

A spray gun was not generally used but could have been.

I have seen photos of the Germans using spray guns in the field in 1943 or 1944 so I find it strange that the British did not use that same method 16 years later. Having said that, I can also imagine that in remote places using a brush and a bucket of paint would have been the only option.

Keep it up.

Vince

Paint is looking Brill mate
Regarding Tamiya paints they are not a acrylic they are a laquer based mix but can be thinned with water but this can leave a dusty surface as it atomizes very fast I would recommend using their thinners bottle with yellow cap or Mr Hobby levelling thinners as this is a laquer based thinner acts as a retarder but once sprayed leave to cure for 24 hours or the dreaded finger print signature can be left If you add a small amount of Tamiya clear to the mix you can weather straight over the paint
Have you tried dry brushing laquer thinners over the top coat where’s away the edges nicely anyway I’m probably telling you what you already know tell me to jog on if I am