Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.

[John Clarke]

Rest assured your build log will make sure that there's some heavenly models built.

[Richard Goodwin]

Yes they were, except that in 4RTR the front left triangle bin was painted white and was our larder. I don’t remember the interior of the lids being painted but may be wrong about that.

I also cannot remember the interior of the lids being red-oxided on any of the vehicles. When open, that would have been a rectangular red patch on a green and black background so not very tactical.
I also cannot recollect any bins on future vehicles or any of the Chiefy long bins that we demanded for the REME vehicles years after Chieftain was withdrawn being red-oxided on the inside.
Possibly the red-oxide ( and white paint on the larder bin ) were applied later in unit lines for two reasons
1) Protection against rust. Bins corroded from the inside out. The paint protection got scratched more on the inside from the contents moving about than the outside ever did.
2) Helped with locating and identifying any debris or leakage / spillage when cleaning the bins after an exercise.

As the tank crews knew which bin was the larder, whichever bin it happened to be, I can only presume that either the white paint was easier than red-oxide to wipe clean, and / or the white paint made it easier to identify the contents in low light conditions when preparing the next meal.

Mark

Mark.......can you recall what colour the inside of the bins were on the inside either in service or if a replacement was demanded?

Apologies for capturing your thread Phil.

[Phil Woollard]

No worries Richard, it's all good to me

[Mark Heaps]

Mark.......can you recall what colour the inside of the bins were on the inside either in service or if a replacement was demanded?

IIRC same colour inside as outside, the standard army green, and a black rubber sealing strip about 3/8 inches wide around the inside of the lids.

Mark

[Phil Woollard]

As it is the day of our Lord I am doing a little research, and as usual I need some help. The "T piece" any photos of the long end as it fixes to the hull deck under the turret would be wonderful. The kit t piece will need some additions for sure, it's not wide enough and the long end needs the angled mount making and attaching some how, and that's the bit I'm not sure of.
I want the t piece to be removable and when the vent hatches are hinged back the entire engine will be revealed albeit a thinner version!

[John Clarke]

Hi Phil
I've got this right hand side view which shows the rear edge of the Tee piece end you want. Guessing it's the same the other side, (or not, nothings symmetrical round the engine deck).

SAM_16021.jpg (216.93 KiB) Viewed 888 times

I've said it before I know, but you'll have to cut up the Armortek rear deck for a "open plan" engine bay, worried it'll weaken the thin deck too much, or do you have a cunning plan?

Another picture of the rear louvers going another way. Just when you think it's right, it's wrong. And Chieftain gives you a good kick in the nether regions.

Will you be leaving the coolant cap in that position?

[Mark Heaps]

the entire engine will be reviled albeit a thinner version!

Not sure if a typo or just saying it as it was.
Mark

[Phil Woollard]

Thanks John for the photo. The dilemma with the coolant filler cap, I'm pretty sure Ivano has measurements from the kit, in fact I'm sure he has, so I will leave as is until the prototype arrives and then decide if its worth moving or not.
Reference the deck cutting, I won't be sure where and how to cut until I have the vent hatches in place but I do have a plan. I just need to see that t piece end under the turret to be sure! That's me being lexdistic Mark lol.

[Daniel Brooker]

Phil could you tell me what grease manufacturer you used for the final drives gearboxes etc getting near that stage and wanted know what is the right stuff to use cracking build so far loving the updates youve helped loads

[Phil Woollard]

Hi Daniel, now Armortek don't recommend using grease except maybe a dry grease. I use Castrol or similar general purpose grease but any of good quality would be just fine as these don't seem to have the cheap liquid residues. Use the grease as the gasket as there's no or little heat/pressure involved

[Mark Heaps]

IIRC Gearbox wa OEP 220 and final drives was EP 80.
But I was an ECE and responsible for fixing the turret systems. VMs kept the tanks moving.

Mark

[Daniel Brooker]

Thanks for the answer Phil much apreciated

ive Found high powered soldering iron similar to what youve been using i see in your pics you use LACO flux ( reminds me of my plumbing days !!!!!) are you using the standard flux and is there any solder i should look out for in particular?

sorry for all the questions

regards
Dan

[Phil Woollard]

That is my plumbing flux and the reel is just thin flux cored lead based solder for electrical work, works ok for me. Just be careful with the flux as a little goes a long way and the solder will follow the flux just like when your plumbing. As you know cleanliness is paramount when soldering anything!

[Daniel Brooker]

I hear you mate thanks

[Steve Ellis]

Hi Phil

I was at Bovington yesterday and took these for you. Like Steve I also recall the interior of some of the bins being red oxide. The exception was the front right bin which was painted white and used to keep the rations and cooking utensils in.