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Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 2:29 pm
by Richard Goodwin
Kevin Hunter wrote: ↑Fri Dec 06, 2019 2:16 pm
Phil, your build is compelling reading as usual. Really appreciate your posts, which are invaluable to us “amateurs”.
Richard, I used this stuff on my Centurion, although the required profile wasn’t quite fully half round. It’s easy to lay these strips flat side down on sandpaper and achieve the profile you want.
https://www.ema-models.co.uk/index.php/ ... d-rod.html
Cheers
Kevin
VM thanks for the link Kev.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 5:08 pm
by John Clarke
Hi Phil
First, the triangle bin. Cut or Lengthened? and why so many hasps?
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Second, the tensioner nut covers, Errrr They do look a bit big, but there's only about a 1mm wall thickness though out. They should look better when painted. The alternative of recessing the nut or reversing the retaining nut is a much bigger job and weakens the pivot point.
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And third, If I need half round material, I just get a length round rod, Brazing rod (Brass) or alloy welding rod (Aluminium), Drill some 0.5mm holes along it's length and nail it with 0.5 brass pins to a length of wood and file the required flat along it. Simple's
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 7:58 am
by Phil Woollard
I like the end caps for the idlers, can you send me a pair? The hasps, I've been experimenting with the latches but now going to try and rework the kit examples. The hasps can then be mounted one in the middle of each bin.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:17 am
by John Clarke
There's a lot of big holes on the boxes, But they should cover up ok. I have a fine set of Steve Winstone's hasps and latches which will look very nice once I work out how to attach them.
The cover units are £500 + P&P.....each
But if you search on fleabay you might find a old "Binatone Amplifier" that would have half a dozen of them stuck on the front.
Cut or Lengthened?
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 10:27 am
by Phil Woollard
I can see the are volume knobs now! They would work!
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 11:37 am
by John Clarke
Ahh, took me hours to chisel these little beauties, firstly turned the finest light aluminium scrap round I could find down to 22.5mm. Then bored out the center using a centre drill to depth of 10.5mm, Then used end mill in the fixed chuck thingy (Naughty) to remove the material to about 14.25mm in diameter inside the cap and about 10.5mm deep, leaving a neat flat cut inside for the nut to butt up against, Then on the outside, used the cutting tool in reverse cut to the reverse chamfer until down to the outside diameter of 17.50mm and parted off. Then make another.
Actually made it all by eye, I rarely measure stuff, if I do it usually goes horribly wrong.
Make sure you don't get the knobs that go up to 11
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2019 6:36 pm
by Phil Woollard
Just a quick up date, I have almost done with the bins. I'm waiting on some tiny parts from armortek to finish the bin latches which I think with a little work look pretty close to the original,I have also changed out the hinge hex bolts for my low profile threaded rivets and reduced the width of the hinges even further, more details in tomorrows post on how to do it.
Richard those fender braces between the bins you will have to manufacture along with all the bin brackets x4 for each bin.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2019 7:34 pm
by Richard Goodwin
I thought that was the case, thanks for confirming Phil.
Boxes are looking really good with the full length hinges now they are fixed with rivets as opposed to nuts and bolts; much more authentic
I have the hinges but just need to identify a source for the rivets. Keep up the good work!
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2019 7:54 pm
by Phil Woollard
Richard be careful if you fix the hinges with rivets as there's no way to adjust them for fit, you need to bolt or cleko first then remove a bolt at a time and fix with a rivet, that way all the shut lines stay in place, well you hope they do. My threaded rivet technique works just fine albeit fiddley!
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 5:39 pm
by Phil Woollard
Today's senanagens.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 6:23 pm
by John Clarke
Wow and where did they come from ?
I'd got you down as better odds of getting them first Phil, 10:1
More like 2:1 on.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 7:05 pm
by Manny Leung
Are the option packs available only upon request? Or will Armortek put it in the shop section in the near future?
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 7:20 pm
by John Clarke
Manny Leung wrote: ↑Mon Dec 09, 2019 7:05 pm
Are the option packs available only upon request? Or will Armortek put it in the shop section in the near future?
I think there was a request from Armortek to customers to put in their option pack order in early October 2019. That's when I ordered my packs.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2019 9:20 pm
by Armortek
John Clarke wrote: ↑Mon Dec 09, 2019 7:20 pm
Manny Leung wrote: ↑Mon Dec 09, 2019 7:05 pm
Are the option packs available only upon request? Or will Armortek put it in the shop section in the near future?
I think there was a request from Armortek to customers to put in their option pack order in early October 2019. That's when I ordered my packs.
You can order your option packs (or anything else) at anytime - either through our online shop or by sending us an email or giving us a call.
However, it does depend on our stock levels at the time and we are working to restock on the Chieftain option packs at the moment.
Re: Chieftain build by Phil Woollard.
Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:00 am
by Phil Woollard
I'm off to town this morning to checkout the stone chip range of paint in my local motor factors shop. I will be experimenting with different techniques to reproduce the non slip coating used over the horizontal surfaces. Has anyone had a go as yet? Now I'm going to coat the bin lids, glasis area around the drivers hatch and the turret. I know Stephen said that he once had a drawing of the non slip areas that were recommended to be coated, does anyone have that info?