M3 Help Needed!!

[John Clarke]

Try extending the range of the radio control sticks. Depending on your radio equipment and usually on modern 2.4ghz stuff, there will be a parameter called something like "Servo End point" ( Futaba) You might not be getting the full range and limiting the output of your speed controller.
Put it up to the Maximum range (140% Futaba) to ensure full output. You can setup limits later if required.
I don't think this is the main problem if binding is apparent, but at least you'll be getting maximum power to the motors if the "servo end point" parameter is a voltage limiting factor.

[Armortek]

Try extending the range of the radio control sticks. Depending on your radio equipment and usually on modern 2.4ghz stuff, there will be a parameter called something like "Servo End point" ( Futaba) You might not be getting the full range and limiting the output of your speed controller.
Put it up to the Maximum range (140% Futaba) to ensure full output. You can setup limits later if required.
I don't think this is the main problem if binding is apparent, but at least you'll be getting maximum power to the motors if the "servo end point" parameter is a voltage limiting factor.

Agree with all of this.
Your voltage at the motors is lower because the transmitter is not sending the full range of signals - this is a common setting - especially on Spektrum and Futaba.

Your issue still seems to point to a binding issue - perhaps your tracks are on too tight. Will drop you an email.

[Matthew Whiteley]

Good morning,

I will definitely check the track tension tonight and change my transmitter settings. I will let you know how that works out!

Thanks so much for the advice!

Matt

[Matthew Whiteley]

Hello all,

I dusted off my Spektrum DX6 manual and I adjusted the travel and I now get over 20 volts per side on the output from the motion pack.

At low throttle the tank seems to go, but as soon as I try single track movements or power up the throttle the motors still whine and the tank stalls.

I've played with the track tension and slackened them but that did not help.

Any other thoughts?

Matt

[Robert E Morey]

Matt,
Have you tried to bypass the speed controller and connect direct the motors (one at a time) to batteries? Make sure tank is elevated. Does this drive the motor ok without binding? Test both motors direct to batteries. Reverse polarity to motor to check forward and reverse function of each motor.

If motors don't work with this test, possibly defective motors or something is binding in gear case. If motors <both> do work ok then issue is in controller box/speed control or possibly wiring.

This will at least confirm motor function.
Bob

[Mark Heaps]

The reported fault symptoms so far with suggested solutions & negative feedback make no sense whatsoever so time to think outside the box.
Phyically check the wiring going from the Motion Control module to the motors and confirm you have not got two wires crossed over to the other motor.
Mark

[Matthew Whiteley]

Hello all,
I have tried hooking the motors up direct to the battery with the tracks on and the motors drive the tank (one track at a time) without binding or complaining.
The wires all look good and are connected properly.

So it could be my transmitter/receiver or perhaps the motion pack or another module?

Thanks so much for all of your efforts, ideas and encouragement.

Matt

[Matthew Whiteley]

I borrowed a different transmitter today and hooked it up to the M3.

The motors made the same whining noise and wouldn't drive the tank properly.

Having tested the motors independently and the transmitter at least I know those aren't the issue.

Matt

[John Clarke]

Hi Matthew
Your getting to the point where you either send your gear back to Armortek for testing or you get hold of a sufficiently capable speed controller to compare.
There are 24 volt dc speed controllers out there for these heavy weights, but they are not cheap.
A less capable speed controller could be used for diagnosis.
Between £25 -£50, Electronize used to do single 10- 30 amp 24 volt controllers, preferably 30 amp which should be suitable for flat floor testing, Make sure you fuse protect them wisely.
MTRONIKS Electronic Speed Controller RC boats VIPER MARINE 15HV 24V 15 amp. At around £35. Again fuse protect wisely.
(These controllers use hi frequency components and can be known to "Whistle" in operation.)

As with virtually all electronic speed controllers, be careful with connections otherwise it's "blown" in a split second. (Good Night Vienna)

I think I'd be talking to Armortek direct for more advice if you don't want to go down this path.

[John Clarke]

Just looked a the clip again, other more experienced builders might want to see a side on clip of the track tension while in operation on the floor.
Also the batteries don't look like they have a high capacity, 10 amp? initial current draw can be high.

[Matthew Whiteley]

Hello all,

Its been about 42 days since I started investigating this mystery and I can't thank you all enough for your support and suggestions. I will try checking the gear one more time with a volt meter but after that I am thoroughly confused.

The motors work when connected independently to the batteries
A second transmitter was tested and it also produced the same results
There is clearance between the final drives and sprockets
The gears are greased
The track tension was repeatedly tested
The transmitter was adjusted and the throws were set to 150%
The batteries were replaced with high ah batteries

I don't know what else to do. I will contact Armortek and see about sending back my Motion Pack system.

Thanks again everyone. I would otherwise have been frustrated beyond belief if I were trying this alone. All of your comments and support really made me feel like I wasn't alone on this struggle.

Matthew

[Matthew Whiteley]

This is the latest test with the monster batteries.

Matt

[Robert E Morey]

I still suspect a faulty ESC (Electronic Speed Controller). I've had a defective Q4D long ago (Panther G) and a defective 2X30 Sabertooth from Dimension Engineering (scratch build). It does happen. If you try a new motion box (containing ESC) from AT - I think this would be helpful.
Best regards,
B

[John Clarke]

Hi Matthew

Except for the control It all looks good to me.

Try reading this. It is not Armortek Electronic Speed Controller but I believe similar.

http://www.4qdtec.com/pwm-01.html

It could be that you may have a poor power supply connection.

Under "Main capacitors" which caught my eye. Control of the Mosfet can be interrupted by poor current flow.

"It will be apparent from the above that the work this capacitor does is extremely dependant on the loop inductance of the battery wires. Long wires will have a high inductance. Twisting the battery wires reduces their inductance. It should go without saying that resistance in the battery leads will have an effect similar to inductance, so these wires should be thick".

I have re-soldered all my power leads on all the plugs on the red box ESC's as a precaution.

Oh, forgot to add doing this will kill your warranty. So send the kit back for testing if still under warranty

[Matthew Whiteley]

Kian is on it!

Monique let it slip that He is super busy with the new motion packs for the universal carrier but he has emailed me and we are going to test some things. His hands must be very full right now!

I feel that I have to point out how awesome the kit itself is as you other Armortek owners would know. The new motion packs are practically plug and play and I would say idiot proof but I’m sure In the end we will find that it was my clumsy fingers that created this mess
Anyhow thanks again for all of your comments I will let you know how the future testing goes.