Armortek

How about this then, forget the chain saw effect, all you'll need is a slitter wheel and a girly grinderette.

The tracks cut like hot butter. Just need to make up a cutting jig so there all the same length.

Centurion link is just for comparison.

Any takers?
Even allows for a little wear and tear on the tyre

Having just tried this using a dremmel 420 cut off blade and a Powerfile with 80 grit loaded, it took less than two minutes although watch out for the very hot off cut when it comes off. Not my ideal solution but having spent many hours cleaning and painting my tracks, I think it is the lessor of the evils plus no wear and tear on either the bushes, bearings or rollers.

I can confirm that little blighter that comes off the horn is very hot.

Certainly away of personalizing your own track horn lengths depending on the cutting jig

I think a jig is necessary, other wise you could end up with horns looking like Albert Steptoes teeth.

Merry Xmas

We have checked back to the models that we have here. The horns do not foul on the return rollers.
As zou can see in the pictures, the tracks sit on the rubber.

Hello Kian

Your photo does show the track horn running clear of the rollers but there is definatley an issue, which is clearly demonstrated by the gap between the tyre and track link in the attached photo.

Greg

Hi Kian,

I can confirm that mine is he same as Greg's and John's in that the horns are impacting on the roller wheels.

Hi all
I concur with Greg, John,& Richard, the track horn fouls rtn roller.
Charles

just reduce the track horn length, i did both sets of my early Tiger Tracks, when there was a slight casting burr left on, no problem. regards simon manning.

The horns on mine definitely hit the centre boss as well

I'm afraid there are only two options, allow the track horns to wear the return roller center bosses down, or reduce the horn length.
How much reduction, is debatable. 2mm the minimum I guess.
At least It's an easy if not a long winded fix.
I'm having a few choice words with the front armor plates at the moment, extra sandwich plates required me thinks. or not just had another look
Lots of shaping to do anyway on the gorgeous front end .....
Onwards and upwards.

Here is a photograph of our Chieftain in the factory.
As you can see, the tracks quickly cut a channel of about 0.5mm to 1mm. This is not an issue as there is still sufficient material left on the return rollers.
I would advise against cutting the track horns and instead let the running gear naturally bed in.

Worth pointing out that it is always good practice after assembly to run the tank and then get it back on the bench to check the running gear (taper locks, sprockets, idlers, roadwheels, etc) for wear and make any adjustments as needed. As you run the tank, this should be done on a periodic basis.

I'm happy with that. If Armortek says go chainsaw then chainsaw it is!

Gosh, so you just have to wait for the clatterly clat to stop and it's bedded in.

If the clatterly clat doesn't stop, you've obviously haven't put enough grease in the gearbox.

It's just as well the tracks are made of steel and not aluminium.

I was thinking, what about adding small grind stones, fitted to each shaft between the return rollers, to grind the true depth of the track horn.

I'd be known as the "grind stone cowboy"

Thank you Armortek !
Now we know the true reason for the side-skirts or "bazooka plates" on Chieftain.
They were there to stop the crew getting worried whilst the tracks ground the top idler wheel hubs down to the correct operational size.

Mark

If the return rollers are gently contacting the track horns (or vice versa) making a nice clatter like the real thing, then I'm happy but I may just turn down the return rollers on the lathe as that would be the correct way to do it.